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Is this a good deal?

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  • Is this a good deal?

    by the word this, i mean this http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7934972011&catego ry=33620&sspagename=WDVW because this is going to be my 1st big mod other than bolt ons.

  • #2
    Those pistons are Hypereutectics. The Eagle cranks are made offshore - China, I think (I could be wrong about this). They're rods are thought to be better than their cranks - I don't know about SIR rods. Clevite are good street bearings.

    All in all, I would be tempted to get the kit from NuTek - it's about twice as much, but comes with a Dragonslayer forged crank and forged slugs - your choice of compression.

    It's been forever since I built an engine, though, some of the other guys might chime in with better advice. I know some of my buddies put together some solid engines with more inexpensive parts than I mentioned.

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    • #3
      Originally posted by 96z28
      by the word this, i mean this http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7934972011&catego ry=33620&sspagename=WDVW because this is going to be my 1st big mod other than bolt ons.
      That is a pretty lucrative price for the kit. But, keep one thing in mind. With a flat-top piston (less than -4cc volume in valve reliefs) going into a motor with a LT1 casting that has a 54cc combustion chamber and a standard deck height, you will be looking at a static compression ratio in excess of 13:1

      You will notice that they advertise the pistons to be 10.3:1 with a 64cc combustion chamber. Depending on whether or not you have your combustion chambers unshrouded, you will have a 54-56cc combustion chamber with a LT1 casting.

      Most guys that are putting together a 383ci LT1 will go with either a -16cc dish piston which would be roughly 11:1, or a -5cc which would be roughly 12.5:1 and is also the limit on pump gas. Of course things like your final deck height, compressed gasket thickness, and gasket bore will also determine your final static compression ratio.

      I don't see any mention of the wrist pins in the ad. Ask them if they are included and what type. Also make sure to ask them if you would get all three ring sets. (compression ring set, second ring set , and the oil control pack ring set).

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      • #4
        Im still in a fix about the pistons but tell me what you think of http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7937160169&catego ry=33620&sspagename=WDVW these http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7937073978&catego ry=33620&sspagename=WDVW I could try to find other pistons or just get different heads. Heads and headers were my next thing and the car is going to be setting for a while since it snows a bit down here.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by 96z28
          Im still in a fix about the pistons but tell me what you think of http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7937160169&catego ry=33620&sspagename=WDVW these http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7937073978&catego ry=33620&sspagename=WDVW I could try to find other pistons or just get different heads. Heads and headers were my next thing and the car is going to be setting for a while since it snows a bit down here.
          You cannot use a two-piece rear main seal standard SBC crank in a LT1. It must be a one-piece rear main seal.

          Combination Motorsports and StrokerKits.com both have good prices on a budget Scat 383 rotating assembly kit. Cast steel crank, forged steel rods, and forged alumuinum pistons.

          http://www.cmotorsports.com/93-97-fb...ml#engine-kits

          http://www.strokerkits.com/383_lt1_stroker_kits.htm

          BTW just to let you know, your links are not working by just clicking on them. I am having to copy and paste the URL.

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