I took the rim into a curb after hitting a nice slick patch opf black ice. How unsafe is it to drive on that? Do I need a whole new rim, how much will it cost if it can be reworked? Any suggestions?
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holly crap.....
you'll probably need to replace that wheel pretty sure....
sorry brother,
eddie
1995 Z28 A4, SCC Ultra Z Hood with Air box/K&N filter, Granatelli Maf Sensor/Fernco bellow/Hotchkis STB/white face gauges/LT4 Knock module/March pullies/160* stat without Hypertech Tunning/Borla 3" y-pipe/HI Flo 3" cat/SLP Loudmouth/GM Motive 3.73's + TA rear end girdle/Afs ZR1's silver painted with polished lip 17x9.5 front & 17x11 out back/98 tail light's/BMR SFC's/spohn Lca's/spohn relo brackets & spohn adj. panhard rod " coated mid lenght pacesetters headers + 1.6rr + custom pc tuning going on soon hopefully " -
I personally wouldnt drive on it1997 Trans AM WS6 vert
1 of 463
LT4 knock module
D. Goetz sub-frame connectors.
strut tower brace
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How expensive would that be to fix?Comment
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Can't believe that tire still holds air with so much of the rim missing . Better not drive on it. Might find a new rim on ebay. Sorry about the bad luck man. 
96 Z28 A4, K&N CAI, 3.42 gears, Exhaust Cut Out. Best ET 14.02 -R.I.P. 95 Formula-Comment
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Yeah, the bead of that tire is hanging on for dear life. Replace that sucker before you drive the car on the highway.Comment
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There's an outfit called "Wheel Collision Center" in Bath, PA. They are supposed to be very good at straightening and repairing alloy wheels. I believe the cost starts at $75, but something that severe (if they could even repair it) would be in the range of $150-200. Unless that is some rare or oddball wheel that you can't replace (doesn't appear to be - looks sort of "stock"), it wouldn't be a very good idea, nor very cost effective to try and repair it. Do not drive on it like that.
You could probably get more info from:
www.wheelcollision.com
1-800-292-RIMSFred
381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motorComment
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The wheel is trashed. nobody will touch that repair as too much material in a critical area is missing. You'll have to search for an acceptable replacement. Most stock wheels go for the $200 range for an entire set.
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Replace it before you even drive the car any further, unless you have a death wish or would like to repair your whole car once that tire lets go and you ditch it somewhere.
If you are on a budget, check with your local wreckers and see if they have one wheel. They are usually on a network so they can check if they have it somewhere else and get it for you. Make sure to have the tire mounted and balanced right there before you pay for, it just to see that the wheel is ok.97 Trans Am A4 more or less stock (Mods: WS6 Ram Air with Fernco & K&N, 12 disc CD changer, power antenna, SLP Fan Switch, LS1 Aluminum DS, Borla Cat back, McCord power plate, Spohn tower brace, Sirius, HID fog lights)
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I'd go the boneyard route myself. You can even do that on-line these days......here's an example http://www.junkyarddog.com/Dave S
2000 Black Camaro SSComment
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Whoa!!!
Wow. Yeah definitely don't drive on that. If it were me I wouldn't even have my car sitting in the driveway on that, I'd throw the spare on until I got it replaced. It appears to be a "oem" wheel, which you can usually pick up pretty cheap if you look around on-line. You could check e-bay, you might be able to pick up a whole set for the price of one wheel from an online store.
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how about just putting on your spare...LoL.
I'd rather ride around on the spare for awhile, then that rim...yikes!
that rim is shot...go to a salvage yard...probably can pick one just like htat for $90...if that.
Christopher Teng
1999 · A4 · 3.73's · Auburn LSD · Whisper Lid · K&N · Pacesetter Headers/Y-pipe
Magnaflow Cat & Catback · MSD Coils/Wires · Bosch +4 Plugs · EGR Bypass
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After a good jaring like that you may want to get the alignment checked too. Maybe even a full inspection of that side just to be sure. Alot of stress is induced on the strut when hitting the botom of the wheel from the side. Check to see if you can see any movment in the bolts on the strut tower.
Eric W.
89 Firebird Formula WS6
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6.2L/382.97 ci
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In a constant state of upgrade!
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I agree....a buddy of mine hit the curb with the rear wheel of his IROC-Z and it bent the axle.....get an alignment for sure!!Originally posted by DeWynter95 Z28, A4, 3.23's and some other stuff....Comment
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