Nitrous kit

[scotts94_z28]

alright so I already have the LT4 hotcam kit and the stock LT1 heads are being ported and polished right now so my next purchase is going to be a nitrous kit. My engine is stock except for what i have listed above and i dont want to relace the rosd pistons and crank or things like that. Im looking for the safest kit to use on a pretty much stock engine and i would like it to be easy. I have heard that the zex dry LT1 kit is about the safest and easiest kits around. I would like to know if this is true and if not what kit is the best. Id like to use a dry kit and its going to be only about 100 shot

[MN6WS6]

I use the 5176 NOS kit, and it is sweet. No problems in almost 4 years of ownership, manuals are pretty thorough. I HIGHLY recommend a window switch, and an MSD6AL is almost REQUIRED regardless of what kit you get (the factory rev limiter cuts fuel, not spark, and if you cut fuel on nitrous, bye-bye motor). You HAVE to get regular plugs, and gap them down to .035, so you might as well get some upgraded wires and do them while you are in there. You might as well get all the safety stuff and put it all in at the get-go, instead of running a risk and blowing something up. With everything you need, you'll probably be looking at around $1,000 MSRP. But you will have a safe nitrous kit that will NOT blow your motor.

[N20LT4Bird]

I really like my TNT kit. I have run an NOS kit in the past, and it was nice, but TNT has it all over NOS IMOP (no disrespect intended MN6WS6)....Im using a 100 horse shot that really adds about 120 HP and over 200 ft/lbs of torque to the wheels. Its a wet kit though.....which I prefer, becasue I would rather not rely on the PCM to add my fuel. Both are obviously safe ways to go, as they have both been proven over and over again, so its really personal preference.

I was considering the ZEX kit when I bought mine becasue I liked the electronics that comes with it, but I havent talked to too many guys running the ZEX kit myself. I had talked to a few TNT guys and all I heard were rave reviews, so that the way I went.

[MN6WS6]

The "PCM adds fuel" is not how the NOS system works. The PCM still sprays the same amount with the 5176, but the fuel pressure is bumped up to about 75-80 PSI. You don't change anything on the car, just the fuel pressure is higher so more fuel comes out of the same pulse width. If the fuel pressure isn't there, the nitrous doesn't spray, simple as that. It has two solenoids in line to prevent anything from going wrong too, whereas everybody else is a single solenoid. It's a safe as you can get.

My kit put down 370/454 to the tires on a BONE STOCK LT1, which equates to 450/550 at the fly. That put me to a 12.36 in the 1/4. All on a BONE STOCK LT1. That's haulin' the mail, regardless of how you look at it.

The best thing I can tell you to do is do a lot of research, as I did. For me, a dry kit was the safest and most reliable way for me to put nitrous on my car. But you need to determine how you want to spray your car for yourself. Mine is set it and forget it, but with that comes lack of adjustability. Wet kits require more maintenance over the long haul (constantly checking solenoids and filters, reading plugs, etc.) but you get more options (adjustability of nitrous shot per track conditions or level of competition).

[N20LT4Bird]

You don't change anything on the car, just the fuel pressure is higher so more fuel comes out of the same pulse width. If the fuel pressure isn't there, the nitrous doesn't spray, simple as that. .

That sounds like a good way to do it. A lot of the dry kits use the cooling effect that the nitrous has to "trick" the PCM through the MAF sensor. It works, but seems more risky to me. But you are right, just do your homework and whatever you get will work work out for you....