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  • I need pictures pleaseeee!

    Hi guys!
    I need pictures of the proper places to jack my car up that wont hurt it. I am going to have to change brakes on the front and back of my 97Z28.

    Please show me pictures of where I can use a stock jack and it wont hurt the car to jack it up! I don't mean to sound stupid but I need your help!

    thanks Lee!
    Lee Stroud in West Virginia

  • #2
    there are these plastic blocks behind the front tire that has "Jack Mount" on it. In the rear there is a metal subframe that extends forward past the tires. That is the point for the rear. Also you can jack it up from the center of the rear end or from underneath the front crossmember. If you look you will know what Im talking about.
    1967 VW Bug 2.3L Ford SVO Inline 4 w/ Turbo, Sand-Drag VW Trans Axle, Race this Import.
    2001 Dodge Ram 1500 Totally Stock

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    • #3
      I don't have pics, but I can tell you where I place them...in the front, I use a sheet of wood in between the jack and frame. I place the jack right behind the the lower control arm...it seems the strongest there.

      In the rear, I just jack her up and lower her rear-axle down the jacks...

      Pretty simple...be sure to do the front first and also that the e-brake is up.

      Christopher Teng

      1999 · A4 · 3.73's · Auburn LSD · Whisper Lid · K&N · Pacesetter Headers/Y-pipe
      Magnaflow Cat & Catback · MSD Coils/Wires · Bosch +4 Plugs · EGR Bypass
      B&M SuperCooler · 160* Stat · Descreened MAF · SLP CAI · BMR STB & SFC
      Strano Sways · Eibach Springs · Bilstein HD Shocks · Hawk-Pads · Brembo Blanks
      Speedlines · Nitto 555s · Texas Speed Mail Tune

      Lots of Weight Savings · Stubby Antenna · Corbeau TRS · Zaino · 273K

      F-Body Dirty Dozen

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      • #4
        Originally posted by LimTeng99TransAm
        ...In the rear, I just jack her up and lower her rear-axle down the jacks...

        Pretty simple...be sure to do the front first and also that the e-brake is up.
        If you jack up the rear end with the car you will never get the rear tires off because the will still be in the wheel well. yoU have to use the sub-frame.
        1967 VW Bug 2.3L Ford SVO Inline 4 w/ Turbo, Sand-Drag VW Trans Axle, Race this Import.
        2001 Dodge Ram 1500 Totally Stock

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        • #5
          I jack the front from the center of the K frame then set it on jack stands on the rear of the front sub frames.
          I then jack the rear as stated below.
          Originally posted by Squat13
          If you jack up the rear end with the car you will never get the rear tires off because the will still be in the wheel well. yoU have to use the sub-frame.
          I jack from the center section of the rear end then lower the axle onto jackstands all of the time and I have no problem getting the rear tires off.
          2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning

          1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD

          A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"

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          • #6
            Im not saying it didnt work for you, But Im just speeking from my experiance
            1967 VW Bug 2.3L Ford SVO Inline 4 w/ Turbo, Sand-Drag VW Trans Axle, Race this Import.
            2001 Dodge Ram 1500 Totally Stock

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            • #7
              Originally posted by Squat13
              If you jack up the rear end with the car you will never get the rear tires off because the will still be in the wheel well. yoU have to use the sub-frame.
              Only on a seriously lowered 4th Gen.... I have 28" slicks and there is plenty of room to remove the tire with the rear axle sitting on jack stands. The 4th Gens have the wheel well clearance of a jacked 4X4.

              In the back, you can use the subframes, and allow the wheels full drop for better access, agreed. The subframes are 3"x1 to 2" rectangles. One of the SF's ends at the connection for the lower control arm. The other is located about 8" inboard from the first one, starts near the end of it, and kicks up over the rear axle, all the way to the back where the bumper bolts on.

              Supporting with a jackstand on the inner rear SF (I have since bought rubber pads for my chassis jack and jack stands):



              Here's a frame lift lifting on the outer SF's, just in front of the LCA mount. :



              Frame lift using the inner SF's:




              In the front, again there is the 3x2 rectangular subframe, the black plastic pads (definitely use a board on this one, or the jackstand will dig into the plastic), the front K-member supporting the engine (again, if you jack it dead center in this location, you need a 2x4 across the K-member, to prevent the jack from caving it in, and the lower control arms directly under the shocks. Couldn't find any pictures of the front end jacked up.

              I've also tried lifting it under the caps for the sway bar bushings, and these seem to be able to support the weight, assuming you use at least two jackstands, one under each cap.

              The places to avoid are the sheetmetal rocker panels, particularly the spot right next to the plastic blocks in the front - where is says "do not jack" - the sheetmetal will bend and the bottom of your front fender will pop out and look really bad.

              If you can't get a jack under the K-member, because the front end it low, drive it up on a couple of 2x10 planks, like I use under my ramps:

              Fred

              381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

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              • #8
                Originally posted by Squat13
                If you jack up the rear end with the car you will never get the rear tires off because the will still be in the wheel well. yoU have to use the sub-frame.
                errr...okay...it works for me.

                Christopher Teng

                1999 · A4 · 3.73's · Auburn LSD · Whisper Lid · K&N · Pacesetter Headers/Y-pipe
                Magnaflow Cat & Catback · MSD Coils/Wires · Bosch +4 Plugs · EGR Bypass
                B&M SuperCooler · 160* Stat · Descreened MAF · SLP CAI · BMR STB & SFC
                Strano Sways · Eibach Springs · Bilstein HD Shocks · Hawk-Pads · Brembo Blanks
                Speedlines · Nitto 555s · Texas Speed Mail Tune

                Lots of Weight Savings · Stubby Antenna · Corbeau TRS · Zaino · 273K

                F-Body Dirty Dozen

                Comment


                • #9
                  Clearance with 28" tire:

                  Fred

                  381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

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                  • #10
                    Here's a complete article on how to jack up your car.....complete with pictures http://www.installuniversity.com/ins...ift_points.htm
                    Dave S
                    2000 Black Camaro SS

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                    • #11
                      Well maybe I should have added the fact that I have Eibach Coils in the front and back. My bad
                      1967 VW Bug 2.3L Ford SVO Inline 4 w/ Turbo, Sand-Drag VW Trans Axle, Race this Import.
                      2001 Dodge Ram 1500 Totally Stock

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        I also use the rear pumkin as my jack point. And I have no problems getting on/off a MT 28x10.5W. I use the LCA relocation brackets for the jack-stands.

                        I have seen a few f and y bodies that were lowered more than 2" and getting the rear tires off was tricky but not hard.

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                        • #13
                          This is good info - these cars can be a pain getting up in the air if not done properly!
                          Silver 02 WS-6, 6 speed, Corsa cat-back, SLP lid, K&N filter, BMR STB, !CAGs, Lou's short stick, MSD wires, MTI "Hammer" cam, ASP underdrive pulley, Hooker LTs, Hooker ORY, Comp 918s, TR pushrods, UMI Sfcs, UMI LCAs, NGK TR55s, Hotchkis springs



                          Dyno'd 4/24: 330.9 RWHP/ 344.8 RWTQ (Before cam, headers, and pulley)

                          Dyno'd 5/1: 383.5 RWHP / 380.5 RWTQ (393 actual RWHP)

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                          • #14
                            fly me out there, ill lift it off the ground fer ya......





                            good pics fred and all!

                            The Goldens: Reno and Rocky

                            2008 C6, M6, LS3, Corsa Extreme C/B, (it flys) & 2008 Yukon loaded (Titanic), 03 Ford Focus..everydaydriver.

                            Wolfdog Rescue Resources, Inc.:http://www.wrr-inc.org
                            Home Page: http://www.renokeo.com
                            sold: 97 Firehawk, 97 Comp T/A, 2005 GTO, 2008 Solstice GXP turbo.

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                            • #15
                              Thanks Guys!
                              I honestly really thank ya. I was scared to death to try and lift it. It scares the color out of me when I see it being lifted at the dealer. I just pray that they do it right when they do it.

                              I got ta put new brakes and rotors on her, as soon as, possible. The previous owner wasn't much at maintenance.

                              Thanks again, Lee!
                              Lee Stroud in West Virginia

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