LT1 timing cover ??

[BadWS6]

I have friend who has a LT1 that he wants to put into a Roadster type body. He is going to remove the fuel injection and wants to install dual quads and remove the Opti He asked me what timing cover he need? Is there a different cover used with no Opti (I thought the only change was for the water pump drive) and if he goes with a electric water pump does any one know part numbers

Thanks in advance

Bob

[Injuneer]

I have friend who has a LT1 that he wants to put into a Roadster type body. He is going to remove the fuel injection and wants to install dual quads and remove the Opti He asked me what timing cover he need? Is there a different cover used with no Opti (I thought the only change was for the water pump drive) and if he goes with a electric water pump does any one know part numbers

Thanks in advance

Bob

The Opti is not contained within the timing cover. It mounts over a hole around the end of the cam/sprocket. GM makes a cover for this hole, when a conventional distributor is being used. PN 12367600. The original 7-1/2" damper will not clear the timing tab on that cover. You can install a key in the crank, and use a 6-3/4" 0-balanced replacement damper. Includes a new hub.

You would need to verify that the plate mounts on the specific year LT1 timing cover that you are using. There are 3 different versions... the 93/94 shaft drive Opti version, the 95 dowel drive Opti/no CKP version, and the 96/97 dowl drive Opti w/ CKP.

You don't need to do anything to the water pump, or its drive. Or did I miss the point of the question?

Just curious... why would anyone take an LT1, and use it in a carbed, convertional distributor setup in an older car? The LT1 has serious limitations on head/intake selections, unless you get into "converted" (read - "extra cost") SBC 1 heads. The "beauty" of using an LT1 in an older car is the sophistication of the fuel injection setup, IMHO. You would be far better off with a Gen 1 SBC block, if you are going carb and conventional distributor.

[BadWS6]

I also asked why ...he got the engine fairly cheap and just thought he would give it a shot

Thanks for the info

[fastTa]

I have to say I asked myself the same thing when I first read this post. Why would anyone ditch the fuel injection on an LT1 to run it carbed?

I can understand the nostalgia and and consistency factor of wanting to go with a carbed setup on an older car or classic, but if you want carbed why not just go with a standard Gen 1 SBC like Fred mentioned. The aftermarket for a Gen 1 SBC is much more user friendly. The vast majority of major parts stores and speed shops will most likely stock all of the parts needed for a Gen 1 SBC. The same cannot be said for an LT1. Not to mention the parts and maintenance will be much cheaper and easier with the Gen 1 SBC.

The entire premise for the foundation of building the LT1 was so that it could be smarter, more efficient, and offer much more dynamic tuning capabilities opposed to its predecessor (Gen 1 SBC).

But if your friend is hell bent on using a carburetor on an LT1 in his roadster, then there are options as far as intake manifolds and heads but the cost will be sufficiently more. Edelbrock, Holley, Brodix and several other major manufacturers make SBC and SB2 intake manifolds to accept a carb and still use the LT1 castings. But if you plan to use a conventional SBC type inatake manifold and heads, the heads will have to be converted to a reverse flow coolant system.