Replacement Motor?

[ColdBird]

Sorry to keep asking all these newbie questions, but since i am looking at $3000 at the shop for head work, cam, etc. Does anyone think i could bet a better than stock replacement, emissions legal motor for near that price?
I know i could save 2k if i did the work myself, but ill say it again; its in the teens outside and i have nowhere to work on and i promised myself i wouldnt touch anything major on this car.

[94turdbird]

my suggestion is if you havent worked on an lt1 yet and dont have a place to take your time wait it out or spend the cash. I work on vettes with lt1 lt4s everyday and they are a little different world.

[wood]

Yes, you could find a 400+ HP rebuilt motor for under 3 large. Problem is labor.. if you can't put it in yourself you are looking at getting bent over for even more money. Your best bet would be to call a few shops and get some quotes on taking out your current motor and putting in a new one.. also factor in shipping, core charge, and all the other things that would not be included with the motor. It sounds easier and better just to toss another motor in, but take it from me.. it's not.

$3,000 is alot to drop on an engine, but if your in the hotrod sceene to stay.. get used to it.

[ColdBird]

oh, im used to it alright. The Dodge is a tranny destroyer. The good thing about it is the labor is easy. Much cheaper than the TA. I am pretty sure i'm gonna just get the heads done up and cam it. Still open to cam suggestions though. I'm thinking the LT4 "hot cam". will it do well with opened up stock heads and and LT4 manifold? New injectors neccessary?

[wood]

Everything I've ever read about LT4 hotcams says that they are completly compatible with a stock LT1. If you are doing extensive engine work anyway, you might look into getting a bigger cam.. I'm not to versed on cams though.

[Injuneer]

oh, im used to it alright. The Dodge is a tranny destroyer. The good thing about it is the labor is easy. Much cheaper than the TA. I am pretty sure i'm gonna just get the heads done up and cam it. Still open to cam suggestions though. I'm thinking the LT4 "hot cam". will it do well with opened up stock heads and and LT4 manifold? New injectors neccessary?

You can't put an LT4 intake manifold on LT1 heads. There is an interference with the valve cover rails. You could have the heads or the intake machined to remove the clearance, and after you bolted the LT4 intake on, you would see no power gain. As received from the factory, the LT4 intake runners are virtually identical to the (later years) LT1 intake. There's just some extra metal at the top of the runners to allow the LT4 intake to be ported to match the raised runners on the LT4 heads, but the "factory" didn't bother to do that porting, not even on the LT4 Corvettes.

I think you would find that the LT4 HOT cam would be a little mild with ported heads. What emissions standards/test procedure do you need to meet?

[ColdBird]

i dont want a super-lopy drastically changed cam as this is my daily driver. I would like to get in low 13's without power adders and minimal mods after this (i.e. headers, intake power program, etc) Not getting heads port-matched, at least not planned on at the moment.
Want cam with lots of driveability but still a decent increase in hp/torque that wont put me over the tailpipe limits. I'm assuming any cam change will require reprogramming the PCM?

Does '95 count as a "later year" LT1 or is there a difference in the runners?

[Injuneer]

The 93/94 LT1 intakes have a definite "rectangular" shape. For some reason, in 95 or 96 I don't know when) they changed it so that the port shape is more "trapezoidal".... skinnier at the top. The "late" LT1 and LT4 both have this sloppy looking port.

This isn't my photo, but the port on the left is "untouched":



Compare to "worked" ports" (that is mine):

[scfirefox]

Crate Motor

I put a GM Goodwrench Crate motor (From JEGS) in my '86, and I'm VERY happy with it. It's a 4 bolt main, and quite peppy! and it's a BRAND NEW ENGINE for $1,300. AND - there's NO CORE CHARGE, you can keep & rebuild your old engine if you like.

These motors are from the pre-85 cast blocks, so they have the larger crank, and one piece rear main seal. I had some minor issues with matching an older flywheel to my T-5, but other than it - no problems at all.

Just one idea for you.

[ColdBird]

update

Alright, they took my baby. Its in the shop now so the race is on to find a cam. I decided to go with a mild cam with a mean torque curve. I'm looking at edelbrock's performer RPM (218 dur. @ .050 and .525 lift) and Crane cams' CompuCam supposedly "computer compatible" cam (210/224 @ .050 and .479/.518 lift)
There isnt anyone up here doing PCM tuning that i know of so im thinking fo buying a link cable and d/l 'ing the updates. Any feedback is appreciated

[fastTa]

Alright, they took my baby. Its in the shop now so the race is on to find a cam. I decided to go with a mild cam with a mean torque curve. I'm looking at edelbrock's performer RPM (218 dur. @ .050 and .525 lift) and Crane cams' CompuCam supposedly "computer compatible" cam (210/224 @ .050 and .479/.518 lift)
There isnt anyone up here doing PCM tuning that i know of so im thinking fo buying a link cable and d/l 'ing the updates. Any feedback is appreciated

You are looking at a 5-10 HP increase by choosing one of those small cams. Not even worth the labor in my opinion. If you are so concerned about emissions, lopiness, and reprogramming sounds like you might be happier just leaving the stock cam.

[ColdBird]

i would leave it, but since the motor has 74k miles the lifters may be starting to wear. If they show any signs of dishing etc. they should be replaced. If i were to only replace the lifters it would cause wear on the old camshaft and im not going to replace it with stock.
Besides, I'm more concerned about a healthy torque curve than peak numbers. More fun to drive than a peaky motor anyway. Thats what my motorcycle is for

[fastTa]

i would leave it, but since the motor has 74k miles the lifters may be starting to wear. If they show any signs of dishing etc. they should be replaced. If i were to only replace the lifters it would cause wear on the old camshaft and im not going to replace it with stock.
Besides, I'm more concerned about a healthy torque curve than peak numbers. More fun to drive than a peaky motor anyway. Thats what my motorcycle is for

Then go with something like this: Comp Cams TN224XL Camshaft 224/230 duration @ .050", .536"/.544" lift with 1.6 rockers, 112lsa

This cam can be made to idle like stock with a good tune. And will give the power "under the curve" that you seek.

[ColdBird]

Then go with something like this: Comp Cams TN224XL Camshaft 224/230 duration @ .050", .536"/.544" lift with 1.6 rockers, 112lsa

This cam can be made to idle like stock with a good tune. And will give the power "under the curve" that you seek.

requires replacement of stock 1.5 rockers? not that its a problem just verifying. Trying to find a kit i can get since i pretty much have to order something by the end of the week