Ok, Im not going to run down the list of drivetrain mods on my 96 WS6, see my profile for that. It's got a pretty good amount of power. Im running through the traps at 119 mph but can only get low to mid 12 sec E.T.s Now, I am running 275 40 Nitto Drags on the back and have got hotchkis control arms, panhard bar and subframe connectors. I would love to go to a full slick and a 12 bolt and cut some 11 sec. E.T.s, but I dont have the cash. Can anybody recommend some inexpensive traction tips, so I can get this thing to run better than a 1.9 - 2.0 60 footer. Thanks.
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96 WS6 Formula: Ram Air, 383 Stroker, Ported LT4 Heads and Manifold, 1.6 Crane Rollers, 58MM T.B., AS&M Headers, Borla Exhaust, Meziere Elec. H2O Pump, Canton Deep Sump Oil Pan, 100 HP OF TNT N2O!! , T56 Conversion w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, SPEC Stage 3 Clutch, Hotchkiss Subframe Conn., Lakewood Adj. Panhard Bar, Spohn Adj. LCA's, BMR Adj. T.A., Custom 12 bolt w/ 3:73's, Moser Axles, Eaton Posi, Moser Girdle
11.6 @ 123mph (1.6 60' - getting there
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Yep... a Spohn torque arm and lower control arm relocation brackets. Also, E.T. streets hook better than drag radials.
But you won't get them in 17" sizes. Besides, a 275/40/17 is a configuration that is designed for cornering, not drag racing. Yes guys use them, but you'll find that a different tire with more front to back contact patch will help you hook. Just don't try autocross with them. A 26x10.5 on a 15" rim will work wonders. 
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What will the lower control arm relocating brackets do and where can I get them?
Do you think my stock 10 bolt will hold up with ET streets?96 WS6 Formula: Ram Air, 383 Stroker, Ported LT4 Heads and Manifold, 1.6 Crane Rollers, 58MM T.B., AS&M Headers, Borla Exhaust, Meziere Elec. H2O Pump, Canton Deep Sump Oil Pan, 100 HP OF TNT N2O!! , T56 Conversion w/ Pro 5.0 shifter, SPEC Stage 3 Clutch, Hotchkiss Subframe Conn., Lakewood Adj. Panhard Bar, Spohn Adj. LCA's, BMR Adj. T.A., Custom 12 bolt w/ 3:73's, Moser Axles, Eaton Posi, Moser Girdle
11.6 @ 123mph (1.6 60' - getting there )
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"Reposition your instant center by altering your control arm angle for increased traction . Made from strong 3/16" laser cut, cold rolled steel. Both versions will lower the rear of the control arms up to 3" and work with all makes of control arms. A must for lowered vehicles to reclaim lost control arm angles. Bolt in brackets are available standard in your color choice of red or black powdercoat, additional colors also available by special order. Weld-in brackets come bare only. All hardware and instructions included. NOTE: Bolt-in brackets will not fit aftermarket rear ends."
http://www.bmrfabrication.com/F-bodyDrivetrain.htm
http://www.stealthperf.com/cgi-bin/store/CAB001.html
http://www.stealthperf.com/cgi-bin/store/CAB002.html2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning
1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD
A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"Comment
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That is going to depend hugely on your driving style. If you do 4500 rpm clutch drops, the answer is no. I know guys running into the 11s with a stock rear and a T/A girdle. I also know guys running 12s that have blown theirs up. If you drive the ETs the same way you use the drag radials, you'll simply eliminate the excessive slippage between gear shifts as well as out of the hole and you'll probably cut .1 to.15 off your 60'. How much you step it up past that is up to you. Bear in mind, ETs streets hook well, but not as well as ET drags or full slicks. You still may get a hint of spin which likely won't hurt you.Originally posted by N20LT4Bird
Do you think my stock 10 bolt will hold up with ET streets?Comment
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