Phase II of suspension question?

[bigred97]

I just purchased an eibach pro-kit and some bilstien HD shocks for my TA. The next phase is going to be the lower control arms and relocation brackets, panhard rod, and torque arm. My main question is do I need an adjustable panhard rod and torque arm or will the tubular non-adjustable replacement be sufficient? I don't mind paying the money for the adjustables, but if I don't have to then that money could go to something else, like my long awaited 3.73's.

What do you think?

[Joe 1320]

If you are planning on dropping the car any degree, you will wish you had an adjustable Panhard rod. Too many variances in the factory parts means often times the differential isn't even properly centered. It gets worse when you lower the car. Just go adjustable and you'll be happy. It's not really that much more and you may as well do it right.

[fastTa]

Definitely spring for the adjustable PHR. The torque arm depends on your intended goals for the car. If you plan to make it a street/strip performer, then the adjustable torque arm would allow you to adjust the pinion angle to help with your traction out of the hole.

[The Bear]

Definitely spring for the adjustable PHR. The torque arm depends on your intended goals for the car. If you plan to make it a street/strip performer, then the adjustable torque arm would allow you to adjust the pinion angle to help with your traction out of the hole.

I'm new to this forum, but I've been involved in tuning, racing and building suspension parts since 1978.

My company has been producing suspension parts for the Mitsubishi 3000GT/ Dodge Stealth platform for some time now, we recently introduced some of the same type parts for other Mitsubishi platforms. We are able to offer high quality adjustable control arms at a price that is far less expensive than some of the Mitsubishi tuner shops have been able, or willing to offer.

Our company philosophy is to supply these high quality parts to people that might not be able to afford going to the tuner shops.

It has been my intention to slowly add parts for different platforms, we are currently working on parts for Audi Twin Turbo, VW Golf R32 and others.

Our newest completed projects is are Adjustable Aluminum Panhard Rods & Trailing Arms for the F-Body Platform. These feature 1" diameter tubular rods, with wrench flats one one end to help when adjusting, aircraft quality Heim joints (rod ends) and steel bushings.
Some manufacturers offer these with 3/4" tubes rather than the 1" tubes but our experience has been that the additional stiffness inherent in the larger diameter tubes, help to eliminate any flex in the bar.

I am working on an addition to our website that will show pictures and offer these parts for sale.
I am posting a picture of a prototype that uses knurled tubing, however we have found that the wrench flats do a better job when adjusting these.

Regards,
Shawn Keren

[Injuneer]

I'm new to this forum, but I've been involved in tuning, racing and building suspension parts since 1978......


Our newest completed projects is are Adjustable Aluminum Panhard Rods & Trailing Arms for the F-Body Platform. These feature 1" diameter tubular rods, with wrench flats one one end to help when adjusting, aircraft quality Heim joints (rod ends) and steel bushings.
Some manufacturers offer these with 3/4" tubes rather than the 1" tubes but our experience has been that the additional stiffness inherent in the larger diameter tubes, help to eliminate any flex in the bar.

1" diameter tubular aluminum just doesn't sound too impressive. Hard to believe anyone would even attempt to use even smaller diameter 3/4" stock. What is the wall thickness, and the spec on the aluminum you are using? Mild steel and chrome moly LCA's and PHR from companies like Spohn ar 1.25". The Coleman Racing "build your own" bars are 1.125" diameter, 0.219" thichness, 6061-T6511.

"Build your own"

[The Bear]

1" diameter tubular aluminum just doesn't sound too impressive. Hard to believe anyone would even attempt to use even smaller diameter 3/4" stock. What is the wall thickness, and the spec on the aluminum you are using? Mild steel and chrome moly LCA's and PHR from companies like Spohn ar 1.25". The Coleman Racing "build your own" bars are 1.125" diameter, 0.219" thichness, 6061-T6511.

"Build your own"

That was what I thought when looking into the bars that are out there. There are some larger fixed length bars out there but many of the adjustables are from 7/8" and 3/4" stock, while others offer 1" as well.
As far as the wall thicknesss for our bars it is .156 on this first product, if people are looking for larger diameter, heavier wall thickness or even solid aluminum, chrome molly tubing or solid, that is something that we can produce as well.
We can even produce these out of more exotic materials, such as the maraging products or EN30B but you're probably looking at a $700-$800 PHR if made out of one of those products.

Thanks for the feedback and the information.