Wet or Dry nitrous kit

[Adam 2kSS]

i can not decide if i should go with a wet kit or a dry nitrous kit. i am only going to spray 100 shot under my current setup. which one do yall think would be better?

[Joe 1320]

My personal opinion with that small of a hit would be dry. The dry kits spray nitrous into the manifold and the additional fuel via the fuel injectors. Everything else has to be up to snuff. Your fuel pump and injectors must be able to keep up with the demands that the additional nitrous will need. Ditto for the ignition system. I favor the dry kits because only nitrous is injected into the manifold. Nitrous by itself is not flammable. When you mix nitrous and fuel into the manifold, one little spark and kaboom. One little spark can come from a valve that hangs open, voltage cross from one wire to another, etc... you get the idea. I have personally experienced this and it is not a fun episode. Dry kits lessen the chances for this kind of destruction.

[Injuneer]

I have been very impressed with the NOS 5177 dry kit on a friend's 99 SS. He was running 11.8@116 on motor, 10.84@126mph on a 125-shot with the 5177. He did add an inline fuel pump, and upgrade his injectors, but he's probably making over 600HP on the spray, so those changes were critical. So far, the MAF sensor has responded vary accurately to the nitrous. You MUST use the dual spray nozzle locations specified by NOS, on the sides of the airbox, because that keep the liquid nitrous from impinging on the MAF sensor elements and vaporizing at that point.

[N20LT4Bird]

I run a 100 hp TNT nitrous kit on my 96 WS6 and it hits hard. I've run an NOS kit on another car before and it was nowhere near the same.

I am having some traction issues now, so I wont mention ET's but my car runs the 1/4 @ 108 mph N.A. and @ 119 mph on the juice. The kit is much better quality than an NOS kit also. Nice solenoids and foggers, it comes with all the wiring and connectors, guages, high quality N2O filter. It costs more than an NOS kit, but it's worth it.

As far as wet vs. dry. I would have to repectfully disagree with some of these other guys. I believe the wet kit lessens the chance of going lean on the juice which is usually what causes involuntary intake manifold removals. With the TNT wet kit, if the nitrous is on - you know the fuel is there too. Get a fuel pressure safety switch and you don't have to worry about the fuel pump taking a dive. With a dry kit, not only do you worry about the fuel pump, you have to worry about whether the MAF is working or vaporized, or is the FPR working etc...

[Adam 2kSS]

with a wet kit i would think there would be more than just one thing to worry about. what happens if the nitrous noid sticks open, or the fuel noid sticks closed. that would be disaster. w/ the 5177, there are 2 nitrous noids so if one sticks open the other will stop it, and of course if they stick close, no problem, you just dont get any spray. not so w/ wet. plus w/ wet your bottle pressure would have to be near perfect all the time or you will not have the proper a/f mixture. these are just my thoughts while im trying to decide.

If i do decide to step up to a bigger shot later, after some engine work, i will probubly run a wet kit on top of the dry kit. this of course would be after forged internals.

[N20LT4Bird]

Nitrous solenoids very rarely stick open. They do stick closed though. The solenoids draw some pretty good power to open the solenoid against spring pressure.

Im not saying a dry kit is bad, I just feel better about a wet kit. Alot of F-body guys are going to the TNT kits - if you read the last month or so High Performance Pontiac and GM high tech, they both featured 10 sec. street cars with TNT wet systems.