Well it's about that time. I'm pulling the motor during the winter. I have already done a search on this throughout the page, but had some further questions. Now there are many people that have talked about pulling motors from the top of the vehicle using and engine hoist. My questions is how did you guys pull it from the top? The engine hoist I have barely reaches to the intake gally. Any detailed instruction would be very helpful.
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1995 Pontiac Formula Firebird 383 Stroker 11.5:1 compression, ASM Thottle body, Custom Grind Comp Cam, MSD ignition, BMR strut, k-member, Upper and Lower control arms, rear control arms, and still a work in progress. -
My engine was pulled from the top.
Remove all accesorries, radiator, etc... It may also help to remove the plastic peice at the bottom of the windsheild. Hook up the chains and slowly pull it out.
Randy99 TA "RBLUTA" - NBM, M6, Whisper Lid, SLP Fan Switch, 160* Thermo, SLP LM, BMR STB & LCA's.
***SOLD*** It will be missed!!
93 Formula "FRMLAV8" -383 Stroker -
Mine came out from the top, using an engine hoist with an adjustable balance bar and chains to bolts in the holes for the exhaust manifold bolts. TPIS also makes a bracket called the "Happy Hooker" that bolts directly to the top of the intake manifold.
A friend of mine favors the "out the bottom" method. He had his out in 3 hours. He has an online photo guide if you are interested in looking at it:
http://camaroz28.cardomain.com/memberpage/348183/6
Fred
381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motorComment
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That doesn't look too bad coming out the bottom. Fred, I had to pull a head to get out a broken headerbolt it looks to me like it might be easier to just drop the engine down far enough to get a drill in there and do it that way. What do you think.1994 Firebird Formula, M6, Fan switch, 160 thermostat, Pacesetter LT headers, Morosso CAI, TB bypass, True duals.Comment
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There are just too many parts to disconnect, to get it out the bottom just to access the head bolt. Just looking at Maldo's list:
-TA, DS and exhaust
-wiring to starter
-wiring harness, PCM
-firewall wire connectors
-PS reservoir
-AC discharge, lines
-brake lines, ABS, master cylinder
-upper shock mounts, K-member
I think I'd rather just pull the head......
If you are pulling the engine out of the car, most of the above has to be done whether you are pulling it out the top or dropping it out the bottom. But just for the head, thats a lot of work.
I need to change my front springs, install long tubes, and possibly do a tubular K-member and A-arms. The ABS would be deleted at the same time, and new lines fabbed up for the brakes. Then I would cut out the A/C evaportaor box and seal it off at the fire wall. I'm wondering if dropping the engine out the bottom would help to do all those things. And I could finally clean and paint the engine compartment, something I couldn't do last time the engine was out, because I was 3,000 miles away working in Italy.Fred
381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motorComment
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No one had any nose clearance issues pulling it out from the top? That seems to be my problem. If I put the hoist directly infront of the nose, even using the beam at 1/2 ton, it doesn't look like it'll reach the intake. And if it does reach, it'll only reach the very front of where the intake sits. Maybe the nose on a firebird is longer then that of a camaro?1995 Pontiac Formula Firebird 383 Stroker 11.5:1 compression, ASM Thottle body, Custom Grind Comp Cam, MSD ignition, BMR strut, k-member, Upper and Lower control arms, rear control arms, and still a work in progress.Comment
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Why wouldn't you just unbolt the transmission and the motor mounts and then lift the motor just enough to access the header bolt? The motor will come up quite abit even with everything still connected.Originally posted by 94 formulaComment
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We used a cheap "cherry picker" style engine hoist on my 1997 TA with no clearance problems from the front end. It's easier with the tranny bolted on because of the angle the motor will tilt.Originally posted by crazilyconfused
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Attached are a couple pics of an engine with a fairly tall valve train going into a 4th Gen with the hoist at the nose of the car.Attached FilesFred
381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motorComment
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I can confirm that it can be done fairly easily out the top. The happy hooker makes it a little easier. The other option is removing equipment right down to just the shortblock, rigging a carrying sling and lifting out just the shortblock. There is a little more clearance this way but requires more overall work.
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Here's another step by step guide to get your engine out of the bottom.
http://www.michiganspeed.com/enginepull/index.html
1993 Formula - 99k
Throttle body bypass, K&N FIPK II, SLP Loudmouth, Mad Z28 Chip, 3.73 motives, TPI airfoil, Spohn LCA relocation brackets, Fuddle 3200 Stall, B&M Supercooler, LS1 driveshaft, and chrome ZR1's 17"/9.5" and 17/11" in the back!!!
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