Spec stage 2 clutch question

[Jeff_in_Atl]

Yes, I try to avoid resurfacing flywheels at ALL costs, for the very reasons noted in this thread. How many times have you brought brake rotors in to be cut and had a brake pulsation afterward?.....same thing. Unless the flywheel is badly scored (in which case, get a new one) I always clean it up with just some emery cloth and put it back in....might be something to check.

Check it how?

[fastTa]

Most likely the flywheel was not set up properly on the lathe. Unfortunately this is fairly common when having flywheels turned. Part operator error and part level of difficulty. If the wrong adapter is used or if they do not use enough spring pressure, the surface will not be cut true. Another thing is that due to the mass of the flywheel, it is hard to balance properly on the lathe to get a true cut.

You could take the flywheel back out and have someone else re-turn it to just remove a few thousandths. This may help, but might not totally fix the problem.

Just a thought, but you might check your local salvage yards and look for a used one out of a car with fairly low mileage.

The other alternative, although not the most economical, would be to get a new flywheel.

Good luck Jeff!

[Jeff_in_Atl]

Most likely the flywheel was not set up properly on the lathe. Unfortunately this is fairly common when having flywheels turned. Part operator error and part level of difficulty. If the wrong adapter is used or if they do not use enough spring pressure, the surface will not be cut true. Another thing is that due to the mass of the flywheel, it is hard to balance properly on the lathe to get a true cut.

You could take the flywheel back out and have someone else re-turn it to just remove a few thousandths. This may help, but might not totally fix the problem.

Just a thought, but you might check your local salvage yards and look for a used one out of a car with fairly low mileage.

The other alternative, although not the most economical, would be to get a new flywheel.

Good luck Jeff!

OK. I'll give it some time to wear in.
BTW It was flat ground on a grinder with a cup wheel not turned on a lathe.

[MN6WS6]

Please tell me you didn't just say you used a grinder on your flywheel. Please don't say that...

[fastTa]

Actually I meant to say grinder (I just got my rotors turned today and was thinking brakes) and yes you are supposed to use a flywheel grinder. A lathe cannot effectively remove scoring and it cannot reference the cluch surface to the cranshaft mounting surface. The

Jeff, did they use a straight edge to measure any any high spots? Did they reference the clutch surface to the crank mounting surface?

[Jeff_in_Atl]

Please tell me you didn't just say you used a grinder on your flywheel. Please don't say that...

I didn't hand grind it. BTW I went to school and was a machinist for about 12 years before I went into the CAD world. It was ground on a flywheel grinding machine by my neighbor who builds race car engines. It looked brand new when I got it back from him. He knows what he is doing.

Actually I meant to say grinder (I just got my rotors turned today and was thinking brakes) and yes you are supposed to use a flywheel grinder. A lathe cannot effectively remove scoring and it cannot reference the cluch surface to the cranshaft mounting surface. The

Jeff, did they use a straight edge to measure any any high spots? Did they reference the clutch surface to the crank mounting surface?

He did not resurface the flywheel to crank surface. I've never heard of redoing that surface. It's set below the surface and would require a very small cup wheel to grind but I guess it could be done. I've never seen a cup wheel that small but I didn't specialize in grinding. I hate grinding. It's a dirty slow process.

I don't think he used a straight edge on the flywheel before he ground it. The flywheel didn't look that bad. He said it only took about .010 to completely clean it up. He said it was in good shape. I was surprised there weren't even any marks on the outside teeth.

[Joe 1320]

Yes, I try to avoid resurfacing flywheels at ALL costs, for the very reasons noted in this thread. .

I second that motion.

[raroZ28]

Rip it out and go Lightweight aluminum!!

[pete]

I went with the Spec 3 and the aluminum flywheel. Yes, it was grabby and vibrated at starting off in first or reverse. I just developed a "finese" for letting off on the clutch, and it taught me over a thousand mile break in. Now it and me are fine.

[fastTa]

He did not resurface the flywheel to crank surface. I've never heard of redoing that surface. It's set below the surface and would require a very small cup wheel to grind but I guess it could be done. I've never seen a cup wheel that small but I didn't specialize in grinding. I hate grinding. It's a dirty slow process.

I don't think he used a straight edge on the flywheel before he ground it. The flywheel didn't look that bad. He said it only took about .010 to completely clean it up. He said it was in good shape. I was surprised there weren't even any marks on the outside teeth.

Actually is what I meant Jeff, is that the machininst should reference the relative angle of the crankshaft mounting surface to the clutch surface. Then he can set the angle of the grinder to eliminate the offset relative angle so that the clutch will seat evenly when applied against the flywheel. Most times they will not be perfectly parallel. You will not ever grind the crankshaft mounting surface.

[MN6WS6]

A normal person would deduce that you had used a hand grinder by reading your post, which is why I said what I said. There was no mention of a machine specifically used for doing that, so it scared the bejeezus out of me when you posted that.

Anyway, I can't recommend using an aluminum flywheel if you expect to keep this as a daily driver. You lose torque with an aluminum flywheel, and torque is what helps us kill the ricers out of the hole. I also tow a small trailer with my car, and an aluminum flywheel makes that much more difficult. I have no problems with my machined flywheel, so I don't know what could be wrong with it that could be causing your problem. I do however agree with the "don't turn brake rotors" argument because I have had the pulse problem as well. I change brake pads and leave the rotors alone until they are out of spec, then replace them with new ones. But a flywheel is a little different. You don't have to put a "wave" in a flywheel to kick the pad back out like you do a brake rotor, so I don't know how you could machine it wrong. Flat is flat, pretty simple.

[Jeff_in_Atl]

A normal person would deduce that you had used a hand grinder by reading your post, which is why I said what I said. There was no mention of a machine specifically used for doing that, so it scared the bejeezus out of me when you posted that.

Well I'm not normal. LOL I'm going to hand the keys to my neighbor buddy and ask him what the problem is. It's is just about un-drivable. The problem is, I don't know what to do to fix it other than replace the flywheel. Like you say, flat is flat. Even if it is a little out of parallel with the crank mounting surface and wobbled, the pressure plate is supposed to clamp parallel to the flywheel. As long as there is enough slop in the clutch to input shaft, it shouldn't matter. It acts as if the pressure plate is not clamping parallel to the flywheel and the 2 surfaces on the clutch are not parallel. The Spec clutch and PP cost over $400 which I thought was ridiculous to start with. The thought of replacing it and the flywheel makes my wallet scream for mercy.

[MN6WS6]

That clutch price isn't that bad in my book. When compared to the other performance clutches on the market, it's actually a deal. And like somebody said earlier, if it's determined that it is a clutch problem, Spec will switch it out for you. They are really good people, and will do whatever is necessary to fix the problem, so give them a chance before you go back stock. I've heard a lot of good things about Spec which is why I went with them.

[blackthunder50]

When i had my clutch done, the mechanic showed me a book that stated clearly whenever you replace the clutch on the f-body it must be equipped with a brand new flywheel, he told me i would face problems with a resurfaced flywheel. Just some input

[Jeff_in_Atl]

My buddy came over and drove the car. Well sort of. He let the clutch out, rolled it about a foot and stopped. He said he thought it was the flywheel too. So all of ya'll and him made me go ahead and order a new flywheel. Looks like another fun weekend.