VATS/Pass-key II problem

[Z Ya Later]

So, lately I've been having the pleasure of in the car for a couple min. after trying to start it and having the Security light come on instead. I know this isn't a normal thing, so here's my dilemma. Should I take the cheaper route and just afix a resistor inline to the wires going to the ignition switch to check the resistance of the pellet? Or should I take the more "responsible" way and replace the ignition switch? I am going to try using the spare key and see if it goes away or not, telling me if its the key or switch. Any and all help is much appreciated. Thanks guys.

[Joe 1320]

Before you do anything, try cleaning the resistor pellet in the key. Take a pencil eraser and rub..... Make sure both sides are nice and bright.

[Z Ya Later]

Thanks man. I wiped off the contacts on the pellet and the switch with a paper towel last week and that seemed to help, but the problem is still there. I'll take an eraser to the key at work (can't find a pencil here lol). What would you do in this sit. Joe?

[Disifer]

Same problem last week

I just went through that whole problem last week. Mine is an 89 so the systems are probably different but the basics are probably the same. If the wire going from the ignition to the VATS unit is bad then putting in a reisistor won't help because the problem is in the cylinder. If it's the VATS module itself, I don't know if wiring in a resistor would help because the VATS sends a signal to the starter enable relay to allow the starter to turn. The VATS also sends a signal to the ECM to allow the injector(s) to fire. If you're in to chip burning or know someone who is, you could get a chip burned that will delete the VATS. Just grounding the VATS won't fool the ECM because the VATS sends a square wave signal to the ECM to let it know that everything's ok. That VATS stuff gets expensive real quick though. First my wire broke in the ignition cylinder then the VATS module went bad at the same time. It was really frustrating having the same problem because of 2 differnt components. So $600 the car runs like it's supposed to. VATS is cool but it sucks at the same time.

[Joe 1320]

Before I would start replacing anything, try spraying some electrical contact cleaner into the lock cylinder and try the key a few more times. If that doesn't work, I would replace the cylinder and keep the VATS functional.

[pete]

I did the resistor about 3 years ago, all is well.

[Z Ya Later]

I've been using my spare key and so far, so good. I'm hoping its just the key, but am not holding my breath. Thanks everyone for the info. I'll post if the problem happens again, or in a couple days if it seems to be resolved. Thanks again and take care everyone.

[DeWynter]

Speaking of vats when I got my 89 painted they lost the keys But i got a new updated version of the lock cyl. put in for free when they couldnt find the keys hope im good for years. But back on topic If it were my car I would keep the vats running and replace the lock cyl. if needed. I know its a real problem for older 3rd gens.

[SS_CarGuy]

At one point in time the VATS system made sense from a theft prevention standpoint. In today's world though professional theives are not going to try and steal your car by "jumping" the ignition wires because they know (or assume) that won't work because of the VATS system and if they have developed a way to circumvent VATS it will matter little whether your system works or not. Having gone thru the problem you are having myself with a Corvette, I would opt for the bypass resistor. It's a cheap and simple fix and it's permanent. There is nothing more frustrating than having to wait for your computer to recycle and then hoping your car will start the second time around.