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  • New alternator?

    how can you tell when you need a new one? I looked down there and it seems fine (though a lil dirty looking)...but it does have 140K on it. Funny thing is that my battery went dead Sunday morning, but I drove her plenty and was fine all Saturday. For some reason, it just went dead. Anywho...I figured the alternator...but I replaced the battery and been driving her for the last few days and she's been fine, good charge and no drop in voltage...so I don't know. Is there a rule of thumb to follow? $108 is cheap insurance...but if I can hold on to it...I'd like to.

    Thanks again fellas...

    Christopher Teng

    1999 · A4 · 3.73's · Auburn LSD · Whisper Lid · K&N · Pacesetter Headers/Y-pipe
    Magnaflow Cat & Catback · MSD Coils/Wires · Bosch +4 Plugs · EGR Bypass
    B&M SuperCooler · 160* Stat · Descreened MAF · SLP CAI · BMR STB & SFC
    Strano Sways · Eibach Springs · Bilstein HD Shocks · Hawk-Pads · Brembo Blanks
    Speedlines · Nitto 555s · Texas Speed Mail Tune

    Lots of Weight Savings · Stubby Antenna · Corbeau TRS · Zaino · 273K

    F-Body Dirty Dozen

  • #2
    Well

    There are tests you can do on the alternator. The easy way is to take it off and take it to a parts store, most check it for you. The ones around where I live have a machine that can test it for you.

    Usually a dead alternator will make your charge light come on. If the system doesn't detect a higher voltage with the engine running (Because the alt puts out more than 12V when spinning in order to charge the system) it will throw a light.

    I would stick a volt meter on it with the engine off, should get 12V maybe a little more. Start the car, it should jump up to between 13.8 and 15V?? I think. Any more, or any less, its not working right.

    I have had alternators intermittently go bad. Where they don't put out a voltage at first, but 10 minutes down the road they start charging again. I always have had a charge light when I have had alternator problems, without fail.

    Feel free to blast me if I am wrong with any of this! haha

    ...Tim

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    • #3
      sounds like the alt isnt the problem, but get it load tested for sure. When they go, or are going they are easy to test. Start the car turn on all the lights and the heater, step on the brake while in gear, this does several things one puts full load on the alt. and lowers the RPM of the vehicle, there by making it charge the most at the lowest RPM, It shouldnt fall below 12 volts or it may be bad or going bad.

      Eric W.

      89 Firebird Formula WS6
      Accel/Lingenfelter Super Ram
      6.2L/382.97 ci
      Custom PROM Dyno tuned
      WCT-5 speed
      BW 9-bolt Posi 3.45
      Boss MS 18" Rims
      Headman Headers 1 5/8 Ceramic Coated
      Custom Dual exhaust
      1LE upgrade
      Custom Temperature / Navigation Rear View Mirror
      In a constant state of upgrade!

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      • #4
        If you are nervous, pull it apart and inspect the brushes. Lube the bearings while you are at it, and if you feel bold, clean it up on a wire wheel... It'll look like new.

        You should see mine!


        There is a hole in the case to insert a paperclip right behind the brushes. Use a paperclip during reassembly to hold the brushes back so you can get it all back together. Don't forget to pull out the paperclip after you are done! (it wont work very well if you forget) LOL
        Tracy
        2002 C5 M6 Convertible
        1994 Z28 M6 Convertible
        Current Mods:
        SLP Ultra-Z functional ramair, SS Spoiler, STB, SFCs, Headers, Clutch, Bilstein Shocks, and TB Airfoil. 17x9 SS rims with Goodyear tires, 160F T-Stat, MSD Blaster Coil, Taylor wires, Hurst billet shifter, Borla catback with QTP e-cutout, Tuned PCM, 1LE Swaybars, 1LE driveshaft, ES bushings, White gauges, C5 front brakes, !CAGS, Bose/Soundstream audio, CST leather interior, synthetic fluids

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by TraceZ
          Don't forget to pull out the paperclip after you are done! (it wont work very well if you forget) LOL
          HAHAHAHA!!! yeah...I bet! HAHAHA!!!

          Christopher Teng

          1999 · A4 · 3.73's · Auburn LSD · Whisper Lid · K&N · Pacesetter Headers/Y-pipe
          Magnaflow Cat & Catback · MSD Coils/Wires · Bosch +4 Plugs · EGR Bypass
          B&M SuperCooler · 160* Stat · Descreened MAF · SLP CAI · BMR STB & SFC
          Strano Sways · Eibach Springs · Bilstein HD Shocks · Hawk-Pads · Brembo Blanks
          Speedlines · Nitto 555s · Texas Speed Mail Tune

          Lots of Weight Savings · Stubby Antenna · Corbeau TRS · Zaino · 273K

          F-Body Dirty Dozen

          Comment


          • #6
            Actually, if you have an Autozone in the neighborhood, go by there. They should have a machine called an ARBST. It is a roll around machine that checks electrical systems. ARBST stands for Alternator Regulator Battery Starter Tester. It can check all that stuff without removing anything from the car.
            "No, officer, that bottle is my onboard Halon system"

            Comment


            • #7
              A real easy way to see if your alternator is working is to simply pull the battery off while the motor already running. Not sure how much newer cars like this, but for older cars it works without a problem (to my knowledge). If I'm wrong, please let me know. But, if there are no problems, that's a quick and easy way to do it in your driveway.
              Steve
              79 FSJ - most expensive AMC Jeep ever Mods
              87 GN - its just a 6... Mods
              93 Z28 - slightly tweaked Mods
              http://home.comcast.net/~budlopez

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by Steve93Z
                A real easy way to see if your alternator is working is to simply pull the battery off while the motor already running. Not sure how much newer cars like this, but for older cars it works without a problem (to my knowledge). If I'm wrong, please let me know. But, if there are no problems, that's a quick and easy way to do it in your driveway.
                I've done this many times. Crank it, disconnect the battery, rev it to ~1500RPMs, turn on the lights, high beams, rear window defogger, AC on high. If it stays running, the alternator and regulator are fine. If it won't keep running, replace the alternator and regulator.
                2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning

                1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD

                A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"

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                • #9
                  Here are some pics of what a OEM alternator looks like after you hit it with a wire wheel. It didnt take long, and it brightened right up. Also note the picture of the guts, including the brushes.

                  Have I mentioned that I miss my car recently? I really do. Winter sucks. And, I have to say, DAAAAAAAMMM that is a clean engine!




                  Tracy
                  2002 C5 M6 Convertible
                  1994 Z28 M6 Convertible
                  Current Mods:
                  SLP Ultra-Z functional ramair, SS Spoiler, STB, SFCs, Headers, Clutch, Bilstein Shocks, and TB Airfoil. 17x9 SS rims with Goodyear tires, 160F T-Stat, MSD Blaster Coil, Taylor wires, Hurst billet shifter, Borla catback with QTP e-cutout, Tuned PCM, 1LE Swaybars, 1LE driveshaft, ES bushings, White gauges, C5 front brakes, !CAGS, Bose/Soundstream audio, CST leather interior, synthetic fluids

                  Comment

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