well, im going ahead and swapping out the old opti in my 94 formula, down to the last couple steps, but i removed the 3 balancer bolts, and now can't get the damn thing off the balancer hub, the books states that you don't need a puller, that it should just pull off. Well that dont seem to be the case, any helpful tips from someone whom has already been through this.
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any trick to removing LT1 balancer?
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You need a puller. After years of being on there, you'll need to "persuade" it to come off.
Tracy
2002 C5 M6 Convertible
1994 Z28 M6 Convertible
Current Mods:
SLP Ultra-Z functional ramair, SS Spoiler, STB, SFCs, Headers, Clutch, Bilstein Shocks, and TB Airfoil. 17x9 SS rims with Goodyear tires, 160F T-Stat, MSD Blaster Coil, Taylor wires, Hurst billet shifter, Borla catback with QTP e-cutout, Tuned PCM, 1LE Swaybars, 1LE driveshaft, ES bushings, White gauges, C5 front brakes, !CAGS, Bose/Soundstream audio, CST leather interior, synthetic fluids
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In theory its loose enough to fall off when you remove the three bolts... mine was when the car was almost brand new in 1994. But 10 years of rust tends to make it hard to remove. A generous application of good quality rust penetrant (not WD40) 24 hours in advance will help. A few taps of a hammer, avoiding the edges of the pulley contact surfaces and edges may help. If all alse fails, you need a 3-jaw puller, set up to pull from the inside diameter. Shoebox has the details on his Tech Pages:
http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech1.htmlFred
381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor
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