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  • Cheaper ceramic coating?

    http://nomorerust.com/highheat/

    Looks pretty simple. Prep the header, spray it down, put it in front of a big blower. (the ones on wheels with the cylinder torch about 20" wide)

    Doesn't sound too hard, and it def. beats paying somebody 200 to do it for you. It just seems like a little extra work to save some bucks. I just wonder how it protects. Anybody ever use this stuff? Is jet hot better than ceramic?
    97 Chevy 'Raro Z28 M6- Ported & Polished LT1 heads,beehives,1.6/1.94 valves, 226/231 custom cam,K&N FIPK, 94-95 BBK shorty's,ORY,Magnaflow Catback,no cats,BMR LCA Relocation Brackets,Lower Control Arms,Adjustable Panhard Bar,Eibach Pro Kit,SPEC Stage 1,Walbro 255 Fuel Pump,30LB Injectors,Pro 5.0,Short stick,MSD 8.5's,NGK TR55's,LT4KM

    01 Honda CBR600 F4i-Two bro's,Corbins,SS brake lines


  • #2
    I think the rusults may vary
    1967 VW Bug 2.3L Ford SVO Inline 4 w/ Turbo, Sand-Drag VW Trans Axle, Race this Import.
    2001 Dodge Ram 1500 Totally Stock

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    • #3
      It may POSSIBLY provide a decent coating on the outside of the tubing, but how do you self-apply it to the inside of the tubes? Coating the inside is a critical part of the thermal barrier coatings. Outfits like Airborn, Jet Hot and Swain coat both the inner and outer surfaces.

      The inner thermal barrier coat reflects the heat back into the exhaust gasses. That keeps the exhaust gasses hot, increasing scavenging and making a little more power. It also keeps the tube metal temperature cooler, reducing thermal stresses and cracking due to heat cycling. Two layers, insdie and out, will help keep the under hood temperatures lower.
      Fred

      381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

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      • #4
        Originally posted by Injuneer
        It may POSSIBLY provide a decent coating on the outside of the tubing, but how do you self-apply it to the inside of the tubes? Coating the inside is a critical part of the thermal barrier coatings. Outfits like Airborn, Jet Hot and Swain coat both the inner and outer surfaces.

        The inner thermal barrier coat reflects the heat back into the exhaust gasses. That keeps the exhaust gasses hot, increasing scavenging and making a little more power. It also keeps the tube metal temperature cooler, reducing thermal stresses and cracking due to heat cycling. Two layers, insdie and out, will help keep the under hood temperatures lower.
        Thanks for pointing that out, I didn't know they coated the inside. Thanks for the heads up I knew 25 bucks was too good to be true
        97 Chevy 'Raro Z28 M6- Ported & Polished LT1 heads,beehives,1.6/1.94 valves, 226/231 custom cam,K&N FIPK, 94-95 BBK shorty's,ORY,Magnaflow Catback,no cats,BMR LCA Relocation Brackets,Lower Control Arms,Adjustable Panhard Bar,Eibach Pro Kit,SPEC Stage 1,Walbro 255 Fuel Pump,30LB Injectors,Pro 5.0,Short stick,MSD 8.5's,NGK TR55's,LT4KM

        01 Honda CBR600 F4i-Two bro's,Corbins,SS brake lines

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        • #5
          I think you guys are missing something....... Often headers and stuff are purchased with the ceramic coating. Over time the outer surfaces get scratched from multiple removal and installs, sometimes you can buy used parts over the net that show some wear, etc.... this is one heck of a touch up to an existing coated part or an alternative to powder coating a non heat critical part. I am going to get this stuff and ceramic coat all of my GN's accessory brackets, fuel lines and other parts that only need a good looking outside finish. There has to be a benefit to coating things like fuel lines and other parts to reject radiant heat. I'm going to give this stuff a try and post the results.

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          • #6
            You could apply the product to a rag and then pull the rag thru the header pipes with a string attached to the rag. Blow the string through each pipe first with an air hose.

            Obviously they are not sending you enough to "dip" them.

            There ja go!
            The Old Guy! '94 z-28, m-6, t-tops, go-fast red, 316k. Now with '96 engine w/ Lt-4 hot cam, roller rockers, heavy duty timing chain, and Spec stage 2 clutch.

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