Car won't start.

[raroZ28]

97 z28. I turn the key, it cranks. It drove fine all day yesterday. I came home, shut it down, went to bed cause I was sick, so it sat all day. Go to start it this morning and it just cranks. It started for a second then stalled. Will not start back up. I'm thinking the fuel pump is dead. Is there anyway to test the pump, or should I be looking elsewhere for problems?

Is there a relay under the hood for the fuel pump? I'm late for work...

[Noggin]

Check the fuses first, I had an 'ole chevy celebrity that blew a fuse that killed the fuel pump, wouldn't start at all... and I was in the middle of a turn. There is probably a relay somwhere too, but I don't know for certain.

[FRMLAV8]

When you turn the key to the "on" position you should here the fuel pump run.
If you don't hear that then it is either dead, or not recieving power.

Check the fuses for power.

If you have a fuel pressure gauge you should be able to test for pressure while your trying to start the car. That should tell you if your pump is pumping

Randy

[Noggin]

If the fuel system is already pressurized, will the pump run? I never pay attention to it in my Sentra

[Jeff_in_Atl]

Don't just take it for granted that the fuel pump or the fuse is bad if the fuel pump isn't running. If the OPTI is dead it won't let the fuel pump run. I would advise checking for SES codes first.

[raroZ28]

I'll check fuses. The car isn't throwing an SES light. ??? The fuel pump isn't running when I turn it to the "on" position either. Not that I can hear. I would like to run a test though. Pull the pump and jump it with a 9v. Or if this car has a relay somewhere to power it on, that would be better. I don't like to play guessing games. Test, then replace pending results

Thanks for the suggestions guys. I honestly would rather replace the opti than the fuel pump at this point.

[Jeff_in_Atl]

I had this happen to me 3 times.
1st was dead OPTI.
2nd was corroded OPTI connector.
3rd was carbon-ed up EGR valve. EGR valve hung open and wouldn't start.

[Maverick_82]

check the connections in and to your distributor. i had the same problem. I checked the distributor connections and it started and ran like new; never found the problem, though.

[raroZ28]

I wonder if I could have messed up my opti. It's been raining like crazy here lately. There was a puddle at the end of my street that I nailed yesterday. I didn't think anything of it. My mom came in and said something about it, because it's so huge, and I said, yeah I know, I nailed it. I hadn't driven it since then. I'm wondering if I soaked my opti. Can I check the opti connections etc... w/out pulling the water pump?

Also, any way to check that fuel pump w/out ripping it outta the tank first? I'm considering doing it the monster garage way. If it is the fuel pump I'm going with the walbro 255 lph pump. In tank replacement.

[raroZ28]

Forgot to mention.. The thing that makes me think it's the pump is that it started today. So I had spark, but once whatever fuel was in the lines or injectors or whatever sprayed in, that was it. It seems like there was no more fuel delivery.

EDIT: I am reading my manual... It tells me the fuel pump relay is behind the drivers side kick panel. I'm going to run a few tests. I haven't ruled out the opti. I'm going to check that, and then look into the opti. Thanks for all the replies guys, I appreciate it.

[Joe 1320]

here is a proceedure to troubleshoot the ignition system........

Step 1. Connect a spark plug tester to a spark plug wire and
check for spark while an assistant is cranking the engine.
Check each plug independantly. this checks for open
spark plug wires. Spark in one or more than one wire
indicates the problem is in spark plug wires or optispark.
If no spark exists, go to step 2.

Step 2. Check for spark at the coil wire with the spark tester
while cranking the engine. A spark indicates the problem
is in the distributer (optispark). If no spark go to step 3.

Step3. Perform check on ignition coil.
a: Unplug coil electrical connector and check pink wire for
12v. If power go to b.
b. using ohmeter low scale, hook up the leads to the
primary terminals on the ignition coil. Should indicate
very low resistance. If not, replace coil.
c. Using the high scale, hook up one lead to the primary
terminal, the other to the secondary terminal. Should
not read infinite resistance. If it does, replace coil.

Step 4. Disconnect the ignition module connector and with the
key on, check voltage at terminals A and D on the harness
side of the connector. (pink/black and white/black wires)
If under 10 volts check for faulty circuit from the ignition
module to the coil or check for grounded external coil
circuit. If 10 volts or more, change the voltmeter to a/c
scale and measure voltage on terminal B while engine is
cranking. (white wire). If 0 volts, Have ECM checked. If 1-
4 volts, with the key off, disconnect the module
connector. Install a LED type test light on the positive
battery terminal and probe terminal C on the harness side
of the connector (black wire). The light should illuminate.
If not, check ground wire in the harness to the module. If
the test light is on, go to step 5.

Step 5. Remove the coil wire from the coil and ground it to the
frame. Connect LED test light into the optispark harness
connector red wire terminal C. The harness connector that
you will use is located on the passenger side of the
engine up near the fuel rail. You will need to insert a back
probe pin into terminal C. If the test light flashes when an
assistant cranks the engine, the optispark is suspect. If
no flashes, replace the ignition module.

If the above tests results are correct and there is still no
start, it is tough to to tell the difference between a
faulty module or optispark. Module = Cheap$$, optispark
=moderate $$$.

[raroZ28]

Ok. Can't find the fuel pump fuse anywhere. Not on the fuse box on the dash, and not under the hood. I can't find it. I checked the relay behind the kick panel. Turned the key "ON" checked the relay with a voltmeter. No volts. I want to power the fuel pump directly. Is there ANY way to do this short of dropping the tank? I was wondering if the fuel pump had a kill switch that could have gotten activated somehow. Any suggestions?

[raroZ28]

The fuel pump relay connector is reading 12 volts. I was checking it wrong last time. I'm getting 12 volts, so I am going to try a new relay. If the new relay still doesn't work, then should I check the pump? I am thinking it's the opti or something. I'm not sure what it is. The only thing that leads me to believe it's the fuel pump is that it started and ran for a second, then stalled. Like all the gas that was in the pressurized lines burned and then it stalled. If it was the opti why would it start and run for a few seconds and then shut down?

[raroZ28]

Ok, I'm talking to myself here! lol, anyway, I checked the schematic in my haynes book. I removed the driver side kick panel. I found the gray and black wires under the kick panel (next to he drivers seat), and those are the two wires coming from the pump. I stripped them a little and put the volt meter on them. I got 0 volts. Then I closed the relay (had the relay out that's to the left of the clutch), I closed it by hand and got 12 volts. I closed it by hand so I didn't have to push in the clutch, crank, and try to hold the voltmeter all at once.

I closed the relay (which is basically what turning the key does electronically), and I got 12 volts, but the fuel pump didn't power on.

Looks like I've found my problem. I hope the optispark holds off for a while longer. I can't afford to replace both.

[Jeff_in_Atl]

How about if you swap the fuel pump relay with the fog light relay and see if the fog lights still work. If they do, it wasn't the relay.