Security light on; won't start.

[Reefshark]

I have a 1995 Firebird Convertible, 3800 Series 6Cyl. Frequently, when I insert the key and try to start the car, nothing happens. No sound, no nothing! When I turn the key back to the off position, the "Security" light is on in the dash.

Any attempts to immediately try cranking the engine again are futile. All I can do is wait 3-5 minutes for the "Security" light to go out and then try again. Sometimes it takes 3 or 4 tries (after 3-5 minutes each time!) before she'll crank up. (This is just what you need at 7:30am when your drive to work takes 20 minutes when everything goes well!)

I previously had a 1994 Firebird T-top, 3400 Series 6Cyl., and the same thing had started happening with it. I was going to take it to a dealership but someone rear-ended the vehicle and totaled it before I could save up the $200 just to have the dealership LOOK at it; much less pay for what ever horrible cure THEY would prescribe!

Both vehicles had over 100,000 miles, and neither had any sort of Factory or after market "Car alarm," so I'm at a loss what the "Security" light in the dash is even there for. Any clues?

The only thing that seems to help sometimes is switching between my primary Ignition Key and my backup ignition key. Could this problem have something to do with the little sensor chip embedded in the ignition key?

Just last night, the "Security" light came on while I was driving and stayed on for about 10 minutes. Very weird. (And annoying.)

Does the presence of the "Security" light in the dash mean that a trouble code has been recorded by the computer? If so, where can I go that won't rape me on the diagnostic procedure of hooking up a little "black box" for a scan?

And finally, what can I do about it myself, if anything? I really need to conserve bucks on this fix and I would enjoy solving the problem myself if possible.

Surely I can't be the only person who has ever had this problem with an FBody V6? I would appreciate any help or advice, even if someone can just point me towrds and article or TSB (Technical Service Bulliten) that addresses this issue.

Thanks in advance for your help!

Reefshark

[CLWILSON]

The security light is for the VATS or the Vehicle Anti Theft System. The ignition switch takes a reading from the pellet imbedded in the key, if the resistance is right then the car will start. You might try cleaning the pellet in the key or if your back up key is solving the problem entirely then get a new key made. If cleaning the keys don't work you may need to replace the ignition switch. The wires for the VATS are thin and break causing a bad resistance reading and your car not to start.

[Reefshark]

What about trouble codes?

Thanks for the reply, CLWilson. Before I spend a lot of money, time, and frustration on a new ignition switch, can the "thin/broken wires" diagnosis be verified by scanning the trouble codes?

In other words, does the system store a trouble code every time the "Security Light" comes on in the dash the way it does for ABS trouble codes?

Thanks!

Reefshark

[CLWILSON]

I don't think it stores any code that can be pulled, but I'm not 100% sure I'm sure someone here will know for sure. But I would try cleaning yours keys first before anything else.

[pete]

The cheap fix is to eliminate the need for the contacts in the lock cylinder to read the resistor puck on the key. Depending on the crime in your area you can eliminate this anti-theft feature.

Go to a Radio Schack store and have them read the resistance of the puck on your key with an ohm meter, then get a pack of resistors that meet that same resistance (5 for a dollar last time I did it). Get a cheap soldering iron and low temp solder while you're there if you don't already have some, or borrow it from someone who does.

When you're back home, do the limbo in the drivers seat and get to the base of the steering column. Near the bundle of colored wires that go up to the turn signals/wiper switch/etc, you will see two thinner white wires. These go from the lock cylinder to the vats module somewhere under the dash. There is a connector for these wires near the base of the steering column also, disconnect at the connector and cut the connector and a few inches of the white wire going up to the steering column. Solder one of the resistors in between the two white wires, insulate the bare wire/resistor with some rubber/plastic tubing or electrical tape, and plug it back in. Done.

Should take less than a 6-pack to do.

[CLWILSON]

A couple of thing to remember about the above post is #1 that it does disable the VATS, but if that is not important tou you then this is a quick fix. #2 I'm not sure about the 4th gens but the VATS wire on a 3rd gen and the airbag wires on a 3rd gen are in almost the same place. So make sure if you do this you properly identify the wires you need to cut.

[Rob B (shoebox)]

Some info with visuals here.

[Reefshark]

Thanks to everyone who replied!

Thank you very much to everyone who replied. The descriptions of the problem's cause and its remedy where very understandable!

I especially liked the visuals posted by Rob. Cool! I comprehend how to do this my self!

What I fail to comprehend is WHY GM would design the cylinder with such flimsy wires when its mission is so critical to the car? Heck I had a 1966 VW bus that had been through 2 engines and over 300,000 miles that still had the same original ignition key and cylinder! (And yes, the key & cylinder still worked!) I think GM's engineers are guilty of "Planned Obsolescence" on this issue! Gotta keep those Repair orders coming to the local dealerships!

I appreciate your help guys!

Reefshark