Designed by Gerald Genta, the Patek Philippe Nautilus, since its debut in 1976, has undergone four key phases: foundation, expansion, innovation, and iteration. The core milestones are the initial "Jumbo" model, the 30th-anniversary full-line refresh, and the succession with the 5711 and 5811, establishing its benchmark status in luxury sports steel watches.
I. Foundation Phase (1976–1990): Pioneering the Paradigm of Luxury Sports Steel Watches
1976 Ref. 3700/1A: The first Nautilus, with a 42mm "Jumbo" steel case, an octagonal bezel inspired by ship portholes, a horizontally fluted dial, the Cal. 28-255 C movement, an ultra-thin 7.6mm diameter, and 120-meter water resistance. It broke the mainstream of precious metal dress watches at the time and was hailed as the prototype of the "King of Steel Watches."
1980 Ref. 4700: Women's quartz model, no date/seconds hand, Cal.E 19 C movement, expanding the women's market.
1981 Ref. 3800: 37.5 mm medium size, Cal.335 SC automatic movement, with central seconds hand, adaptable to more wrist sizes, becoming a long-term mainstay.
1984 Ref. 3900: 33 mm "Boy Size" quartz model, Cal.E 23/51 movement, further covering the needs of smaller sizes.
1990: Ref. 3700 and 3800 became the only regular models in the series, establishing a casual and elegant positioning.
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II. Extension Period (1990–2005): Functional Upgrades and Size Return
1996 Ref. 3710/1A: Returned to 42mm, added power reserve indicator and Roman numerals, improved Cal. 335 SC movement, first time incorporating complications.
1997 Ref. 5060A: 43mm larger variant, three-part case, sapphire
stal case back, screw-down crown, optional leather strap, enhanced water resistance and visibility.
1998 Ref. 3710/1G: White gold version, added WZI winding indicator, improving technical legibility.
2005 Ref. 3712/1A: The first model with three complications (power reserve, moon phase, pointer date), produced for only one year, became a collector's item.
III. Period of Innovation (2006–2021): 30th Anniversary Complete Renewal, 5711 Reaches Legendary Status
2006 30th Anniversary Major Redesign: Discontinued the old model, introduced 6 new model numbers, establishing the modern family design language:
Ref. 5711/1A: 40mm steel model, Cal. 324 SC movement (central seconds + date), blue gradient horizontal fluted dial, becoming the series' totem, long highly sought after.
Ref. 5712/1A: Power reserve + moon phase + date, Cal. 324 S QA LU movement, the mainstay of complicated functions.
Ref. 5980/1A: The first chronograph, Cal. CH 28-520 C movement, flyback chronograph, a new benchmark for complicated functions in the series.
2010 Ref. 5726: Annual calendar + moon phase function, Cal. 26-330 S QA LU movement, filling the gap in the annual calendar category.
2014 Ref. 5990/1A: Dual time zone + flyback chronograph, Cal. CH 28-520 C FUS movement, replacing 5980, becoming the most complicated model in the series.
2018 Ref. 5740/1G: The first perpetual calendar Nautilus, Cal. 240 Q movement, white gold, solidifying its flagship status with complicated functions.
IV. Iteration Period (2022–Present): Classic Farewell and New Chapter Begin
2022 Ref. 5711/1A: A global sensation, culminating in limited editions with green and Tiffany blue dials.
In 2022, Ref. 5811/1G-001 took over: a 41mm white gold model with the Cal. 324 SC movement, retaining the horizontally fluted dial with minor size adjustments to enhance its luxurious appeal.
2024–2025: Expanding the range with women's models (such as the 7118 series), jewelry models (such as the 5990/1400G), and material variations to cover more niche needs.
Key Milestones and Core Impacts
Year | Key Event | Key Changes | Market Impact
1976 | Ref. 3700/1A | First Release | Steel Case + Octagonal Porthole Design | Defined a New Category of Luxury Sports Steel Watches
2006 | 30th Anniversary | Complete Series Refresh | New Numbering Systems such as 5711/5712/5980 | Established Modern Family Language, 5711 Becomes a Top Choice
2022 | 5711 Discontinued + 5811 Launched | Size 40→41 mm, Material Steel→White Gold
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Design and Technical Context
Case: Octagonal Bezel + Horizontally Fluted Dial + Alternating Polished/Satin Finishes; from 42 mm Jumbo to 37.5 mm medium size, then back to the mainstream 40–41 mm, balancing recognizability and wearability.
Movement: From Cal. 28-255 C to Cal. 324 SC/CH 28-520 C, the movement has been progressively upgraded with features such as automatic winding, stop-seconds, date, chronograph, annual calendar, and perpetual calendar. Complex models are highlighted by their instantaneous movement and ultra-thin design.
Positioning: Always adhering to the principle of "casual elegance," the movement can be used in various settings including formal, casual, and sporty occasions, making it one of Patek Philippe's most recognizable series and influencing the design of subsequent series such as the Aquanaut and Cubitus.
I. Foundation Phase (1976–1990): Pioneering the Paradigm of Luxury Sports Steel Watches
1976 Ref. 3700/1A: The first Nautilus, with a 42mm "Jumbo" steel case, an octagonal bezel inspired by ship portholes, a horizontally fluted dial, the Cal. 28-255 C movement, an ultra-thin 7.6mm diameter, and 120-meter water resistance. It broke the mainstream of precious metal dress watches at the time and was hailed as the prototype of the "King of Steel Watches."
1980 Ref. 4700: Women's quartz model, no date/seconds hand, Cal.E 19 C movement, expanding the women's market.
1981 Ref. 3800: 37.5 mm medium size, Cal.335 SC automatic movement, with central seconds hand, adaptable to more wrist sizes, becoming a long-term mainstay.
1984 Ref. 3900: 33 mm "Boy Size" quartz model, Cal.E 23/51 movement, further covering the needs of smaller sizes.
1990: Ref. 3700 and 3800 became the only regular models in the series, establishing a casual and elegant positioning.
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II. Extension Period (1990–2005): Functional Upgrades and Size Return
1996 Ref. 3710/1A: Returned to 42mm, added power reserve indicator and Roman numerals, improved Cal. 335 SC movement, first time incorporating complications.
1997 Ref. 5060A: 43mm larger variant, three-part case, sapphire
stal case back, screw-down crown, optional leather strap, enhanced water resistance and visibility.1998 Ref. 3710/1G: White gold version, added WZI winding indicator, improving technical legibility.
2005 Ref. 3712/1A: The first model with three complications (power reserve, moon phase, pointer date), produced for only one year, became a collector's item.
III. Period of Innovation (2006–2021): 30th Anniversary Complete Renewal, 5711 Reaches Legendary Status
2006 30th Anniversary Major Redesign: Discontinued the old model, introduced 6 new model numbers, establishing the modern family design language:
Ref. 5711/1A: 40mm steel model, Cal. 324 SC movement (central seconds + date), blue gradient horizontal fluted dial, becoming the series' totem, long highly sought after.
Ref. 5712/1A: Power reserve + moon phase + date, Cal. 324 S QA LU movement, the mainstay of complicated functions.
Ref. 5980/1A: The first chronograph, Cal. CH 28-520 C movement, flyback chronograph, a new benchmark for complicated functions in the series.
2010 Ref. 5726: Annual calendar + moon phase function, Cal. 26-330 S QA LU movement, filling the gap in the annual calendar category.
2014 Ref. 5990/1A: Dual time zone + flyback chronograph, Cal. CH 28-520 C FUS movement, replacing 5980, becoming the most complicated model in the series.
2018 Ref. 5740/1G: The first perpetual calendar Nautilus, Cal. 240 Q movement, white gold, solidifying its flagship status with complicated functions.
IV. Iteration Period (2022–Present): Classic Farewell and New Chapter Begin
2022 Ref. 5711/1A: A global sensation, culminating in limited editions with green and Tiffany blue dials.
In 2022, Ref. 5811/1G-001 took over: a 41mm white gold model with the Cal. 324 SC movement, retaining the horizontally fluted dial with minor size adjustments to enhance its luxurious appeal.
2024–2025: Expanding the range with women's models (such as the 7118 series), jewelry models (such as the 5990/1400G), and material variations to cover more niche needs.
Key Milestones and Core Impacts
Year | Key Event | Key Changes | Market Impact
1976 | Ref. 3700/1A | First Release | Steel Case + Octagonal Porthole Design | Defined a New Category of Luxury Sports Steel Watches
2006 | 30th Anniversary | Complete Series Refresh | New Numbering Systems such as 5711/5712/5980 | Established Modern Family Language, 5711 Becomes a Top Choice
2022 | 5711 Discontinued + 5811 Launched | Size 40→41 mm, Material Steel→White Gold
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Design and Technical Context
Case: Octagonal Bezel + Horizontally Fluted Dial + Alternating Polished/Satin Finishes; from 42 mm Jumbo to 37.5 mm medium size, then back to the mainstream 40–41 mm, balancing recognizability and wearability.
Movement: From Cal. 28-255 C to Cal. 324 SC/CH 28-520 C, the movement has been progressively upgraded with features such as automatic winding, stop-seconds, date, chronograph, annual calendar, and perpetual calendar. Complex models are highlighted by their instantaneous movement and ultra-thin design.
Positioning: Always adhering to the principle of "casual elegance," the movement can be used in various settings including formal, casual, and sporty occasions, making it one of Patek Philippe's most recognizable series and influencing the design of subsequent series such as the Aquanaut and Cubitus.