gonna look at a 95 'vert T/A

[ryan34]

Well there's a 1995 Greeen (allante color actually), convertable with only 71000 miles for about $8000. I haven't looked at it yet 'cause i've been sick(another thread, lol) Well i hear its in EXCELENT shape. Think I'll go check it out tomrrow.

I was also interested in a '98 mustang that was in really good condition. Now I'd rather have the T/A but the stang is owned by my friend's dad.....So i can get a pretty good deal for it. I just don't want to regret my decision, lol. I've already test drivin the mustang and it is in great shape. Well I guess my point is, what should i look for during the testdrive of the T/A? I don't know if its auto or stick so any suggestions are helpful.

I'm pretty sure the people here will be biased in there decisions, so i just want info on the T/A. I'll decide my self

Thanks, Ryan.

[Joe K. 99 Zeee!!]

'98 Stang? Ewww...

Drive both and you'll see the difference. The Mustang interior is more cramped and it doesn't have the same kick in the pants as a T/A. The seating position is quite different as well.

I test drove a '98 Mustang w/ 225HP and a '00 with 260HP. When I test drove the '98, my car was a '98 Camaro V6. In '00 I was driving a '96 Z28. Both times I came away feeling quite underwhelmed. The '98 stang, quite frankly, didn't feel much faster than my V6.

Anyway, on the T/A check the windows. All 4th gen f-bodies have underpowered window motors that tend to go out at some time or another. They may have already been replaced. Some intake manifolds develop an oil leak. There's a do-it-yourself fix for that if you see it. My '96 didn't have that problem, but some do.

Let's see...Check as to when the coolent has been flushed. It should have been done by now, maybe even twice. Given the car's age. The anti-leak in the coolent starts to coagulate and gum up the system after enough time. A sign that this has happened is a low coolent sensor light. Also, the vents won't put out as much heat as the heator core will be slightly clogged.

Have the water pump checked to make sure it isn't leaking. It sits above the distrubutor (optispark) and you don't want that water pump to go, or you'll be buying a new opti along with a waterpump.

That's about it as far as things specific to f-bodies. As always, look for leaks and the other usual stuff. Hopefully the maintenance records are available, that will help a lot.

[ryan34]

'98 Stang? Ewww...

Drive both and you'll see the difference. The Mustang interior is more cramped and it doesn't have the same kick in the pants as a T/A. The seating position is quite different as well.

I test drove a '98 Mustang w/ 225HP and a '00 with 260HP. When I test drove the '98, my car was a '98 Camaro V6. In '00 I was driving a '96 Z28. Both times I came away feeling quite underwhelmed. The '98 stang, quite frankly, didn't feel much faster than my V6.

I'm not looking for that monster racer at this moment though. Just something that'll have good street manners with the occasional track trip. I Test drove the mustang and really liked it. But with that said i've never driven an LT1 F-body. So once i do that i'll compare.

[Joe K. 99 Zeee!!]

edited my post above...I don't mean to come off biased. We all have specific things we look for in a car and like everything it varies from person to person. For competing cars, Mustang and Camaro can be quite different. Whatever you end up with, hope you enjoy it for quite a while!

[Craig 94 TA GT]

Some LT1 problems to look for are:
- Intake oil leak. A sign is oil is all over the tranny pan, oil pan, and pretty much all over that area.
- Rear pinion seal leak. Rear end oil is obviously leaking in the area where the driveshaft meets the rear end.
- Tranny mount worn or broken.
- Power windows are really slow, showing signs of giving up.
- Low end stumble (various causes for this problem).
- Look for trouble codes, if possible, stored in the PCM. 16 or 36 (usually opti) is never good.
- Both headlights pop up well and quickly...although I haven't had a problem with them yet.
- Calipers sticking and/or severe brake wear in the rear (or even front too).

There's tons more small problems, but I don't think they're worth mentioning. Once you feel the LT1, you'll love it

[ryan34]

edited my post above...I don't mean to come off biased. We all have specific things we look for in a car and like everything it varies from person to person. For competing cars, Mustang and Camaro can be quite different. Whatever you end up with, hope you enjoy it for quite a while!

Oh no, not that. I was just saying my reasons for looking at stang.

[ryan34]

Some LT1 problems to look for are:
- Intake oil leak. A sign is oil is all over the tranny pan, oil pan, and pretty much all over that area.
- Rear pinion seal leak. Rear end oil is obviously leaking in the area where the driveshaft meets the rear end.
- Tranny mount worn or broken.
- Power windows are really slow, showing signs of giving up.
- Low end stumble (various causes for this problem).
- Look for trouble codes, if possible, stored in the PCM. 16 or 36 (usually opti) is never good.
- Both headlights pop up well and quickly...although I haven't had a problem with them yet.
- Calipers sticking and/or severe brake wear in the rear (or even front too).

There's tons more small problems, but I don't think they're worth mentioning. Once you feel the LT1, you'll love it

Sweet i'll look for those, hopefully it'll be in perfect condition.

[Trans Am]

But with that said i've never driven an LT1 F-body. So once i do that i'll compare.

hmmm, never drove an lt1 car... you wont buy the mustang for sure

[Steel2686]

Just be sure the clutch is in good shape. If the car was driven right, the clutch shouldn't be an issue at 71K miles. (That is, if it's a stick of course).

[Crazy Canuk]

A thing to think about is that earlyer Mustangs of the last model actuly had more horse power then the later ones, when it comes to the stock V8. So if you can get a 96 with around the same mileage and with the body in good shape you may actuly find it better (and less expencive). I am at work and can't look up the exact model year but it is worth looking into.

If you look at a used car book (lemon aid) they mention this also. Spring is also where dealers and people try to sell these types of cars for more $ just remind them that 275hp isnt the same with all the hemi's and LS1 and new mustangs out there, remind them that even the impalla is now 300hp

The real down side to LT1 cars is that they are hard to work on for the avg person. Some good mechanics who own f-bodys can change the spark plugs in 1-2 hours, most people are 3-4 (maybe more). The up side is the value you get for your dollar. Performance, mileage, and looks I believe the F-body is the best bang for the buck you can get. Mustangs are also not to bad with price but they also don't stick out in traffic as other cars or handle the same.

The things I dont like with my car is the turn radius (5 pt turn for a 3pt :P or if you get on the gas you can knock it down to 1 swivel :P), the nose of my car that I cant see, gas mileage (I don't do alot of highway), and a nagging feeling that my car is about to have a problem (thats just me being a freak).

In the end get the car you like the best but don't get cought up in disillusions that these can't be run daily, gas hurts but if I listened to others the first time my rear end swung out I would have ended up on a side walk or in a tree.

[ryan34]

Well, I looked at the car last night. Very NICE, i couldn't test drive it though. I was miss informed about it being at a dealership, it was just in some parking lot with a 4sale sign. But man, did it look good. I want it so bad now. It was an auto by the way. Well i'll see if can test drive it today. I'll let you guys know how everything goes.

[TraceZ]

Well, I looked at the car last night. Very NICE, i couldn't test drive it though. I was miss informed about it being at a dealership, it was just in some parking lot with a 4sale sign. But man, did it look good. I want it so bad now. It was an auto by the way. Well i'll see if can test drive it today. I'll let you guys know how everything goes.

Do you want an automatic? Think about that really long and hard before you buy it. For some people, like me, It's way more fun to drive the 6-speed. Dont get me wrong, A4 f-bods are great, but there is just something that is so much more fun about rowing through the gears yourself. And that .5:1 6th gear is awsome on the highway.

Think about it before you commit, otherwise you might end up wishing you had the M6 in a few weeks.

[ryan34]

Do you want an automatic? Think about that really long and hard before you buy it. For some people, like me, It's way more fun to drive the 6-speed. Dont get me wrong, A4 f-bods are great, but there is just something that is so much more fun about rowing through the gears yourself. And that .5:1 6th gear is awsome on the highway.

Think about it before you commit, otherwise you might end up wishing you had the M6 in a few weeks.

I may look around for a 6 spd. But i've owned auto's my last three cars and it doesn't bother me too much. I had a 92 eclipse that was a 5 speed and loved it. I'll just have to see whats out there.

[DJ Taso]

Go with a 6-speed!!

[Z Ya Later]

Mmmmmmmm, 6-spd.

Craig gave a pretty good run-down. Also, if the car ends up being a stick, see how the clutch feels. I noticed the factory clutch in the Z was releasing too high and, after making a long drive, would make an awful grinding noise with the clutch depressed and the shifter in any gear. Turned out the clutch fork was pressing against the pressure plate...the throwout bearing was that shot.

Also, check if and when the plugs and plugs wires were changed last, imbalanced driveshaft (loud noise and vibration at freeway speeds), any noise from the rear and the EGR vavle (mine started sticking about a year after I bought the car). Hope this helps