Originally posted by 'STANGETR
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The solution is to only open the hatch half way until all the water drains into the drip channels. Then open it fully.
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Yeah, I learned that after awhile, but then there's times in the pouring rain and I'm at the grocery store or somethin' and trying to put the groceries in the trunk
You try to hurry up, but leave yourself with a mess anyways.
1996 White T/A, LT-1 auto with only aftermarket Flowmasters, shift kit, and a LG Motorsports G2 cold air kit.....that's it! She can't eat all the 'Stangs but will die trying.
Currently on the clock: 120K
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d all the above1996 Trans Am WS6
A4, 3" VForce Catback, Corvette C6 rims, Slotted and Drilled Rotors, 160*stat, BMR SFC, HPP3, B&M Shift Kit.
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I always had in issue with the notchy feel of the factory Hurst 6 speed. It just wasn't smooth at all.
Other than that, I miss her.
SOLD: 2002 Trans Am WS.6 - Black on Black - 6 Speed
SLP Loudmouth Exhaust
17K Miles
2005 Acura TL - Silver on Black
Navigation - Surround Audio - Bluetooth
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- The exhaust manifold bolt that was discovered already broken when putting headers. Thus the 10% BLM difference in banks, which has been a long time problem in the car.
- The way the hatch continually drips water under the tail-lights on the bumper after washing.
- Stock radio problems (antenna connection joint on the main board itself blew; volume knob doesn't work to increase, but steering controls do; blowing out stock speakers) yet I don't use it, or turn it up that often.
- Creaks and rattles in the car (but wasn't that bad when it was younger; now it's 12 years old, everything seems to rattle - but most cars do this at age)94 Black T/A GT, Advanced Induction 355, 3200 stall, built 4L60E, Moser 9", Baer Brakes, Shooting for 11s...Comment
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