You guys have convinced me. It's trap door time. I've done it the other way before and it's not too much fun, we'll see about this mod.
It sure will come in handy after the motor swap.
Good luck with the project Joe, good to hear you have the "bug" back
I couldn't find a how-to on Shoebox's site for the trap door mod but here's one I found. Thought someone else might find this useful. Seems to be a pretty complete write up.
Using my Air chisel, cutting the access panel took all of 3 minutes. Disconnecting the fuel lines took a minute, changing the pump took another 20 minutes tops. I buttened everything back together, connected the battery, said a prayer and gave the key a twist. The fuel pump made is whirring musical sound and the car fired right up.
That beats the living snot out of a typical fuel pump R&R. An Air chisel with a sheetmetal cutting chisel is the ticket here. No grinding wheels with a myriad of sparks, 3 minutes including drilling the pilot holes in each corner.
All that's left is to fab a new panel and secure in place.
How much does a dealer charge for the work to change one?
97 Trans Am A4 more or less stock (Mods: WS6 Ram Air with Fernco & K&N, 12 disc CD changer, power antenna, SLP Fan Switch, LS1 Aluminum DS, Borla Cat back, McCord power plate, Spohn tower brace, Sirius, HID fog lights)
Is the hose over the corner / edge for protection stock or did you add it?
Originally posted by Kevin - Blown 95 TA
I did the trap door too - never really considered any other way.
97 Trans Am A4 more or less stock (Mods: WS6 Ram Air with Fernco & K&N, 12 disc CD changer, power antenna, SLP Fan Switch, LS1 Aluminum DS, Borla Cat back, McCord power plate, Spohn tower brace, Sirius, HID fog lights)
No, that hose protector is not stock. The factory cross brace is just bare metal.
After thinking about this last night, I can't believe how easy the modification was. There was also no reason to go 1 1/4" on the right side, I made it 1". there is a brace under each side, more like a bend in the metal to form a brace. It wasn't an issue with my air chisel, I don't believe it would be an issue with a cutting wheel either. I temporarily covered the opening while I get another hatch cut from sheet. A few rivets and some ultra copper and we're done.
maybe you could make a lil hinge on one side and a slide type lock on the other to seal it tight and make it easier to remove in case it goes ka-put again? idk just something i thought of
2009 Honda Civic EX- the daily beater
old toys - 1983 trans am, 1988 trans am, 1986 IROC-Z, 2002 Ram Off-Road, 1984 K10, 1988 Mustang GT, 2006 Silverado 2500HD
maybe you could make a lil hinge on one side and a slide type lock on the other to seal it tight and make it easier to remove in case it goes ka-put again? idk just something i thought of
Nice idea, the purpose of not having the hatch in the first place is to contain fuel/fire in the even of a rear end impact. I'm afraid a hinge and hatch could pop open far too easy. I think that rivets are simple enough, all it takes is a drill and a few minutes to get the panel off. Heck, it would easy to make a panel and use Dzus fasteners, I just want a little more rigidity. I'll have to put a little thought into the idea of having it secure and easy to open. Maybe a slider.......
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