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  • #16
    Well, what do they say about the best-laid plans of mice and men?

    I got the car in the shop Saturday morning, about 9:00. Began work soon after...

    The clutch, pressure plate, and flywheel install wen t well enough. Had a little problem getting out the pilot bearing (used the grease trick), but once out, the new bronze bushing went in easy enough. The inner diameter of the aluminum flywheel was a bit snug on the crank, but a little emory cloth paper did the trick.

    Now the problems. first off, my two mechanic buddies wired the starter wrong. In addition to the large black wire, and the purple ignition wire, they hooked up a small black wire. Well, this caused the brand new starter to fry. It was only after I put the old starter back in did I question their wiring skills. I told them I though the third wire was supposed to go to ground, and sure enough, once we did that, the car starter. Duh...

    Anyway, once started, it was pretty obvious the timing was off. After trying to diagnose the issue, all signs pointed to the Opti. I thought I was smart trying to reuse the old Opti., as it was fine. That was before I replaced the cap and rotor. It seems I tweaked the optical wheel and it was dragging 180 degrees on the sensors. I'm pretty sure I had the dowel pin lined up right, so I'm thinking the dragging on the optics was the cause of the problem.

    Anyway, we quit at 9:30 PM, and I'm on a new Opti.

    BTW - I bought one from an outfit in Florida called TPI Parts. They have set up a Canadian outfit to build "OEM"-like Opti's. I questioned them on the quality and they knew right away why I was asking. They said they are not the Chinese junk some ebay sellers are selling. Their units are as good if not better than AC-Delco, which they state no longer makes these. I told them about "thepartsladi" and they knew right away who I was talking about. The said that vendor's Opti's were as good as theirs. For proof, they told me that they've sold well over 100 in the last two years, and have only had two come back. They offer a lifetime warranty as well.

    For $200 (these are new, not rebuilt) it's worth a shot. I was surprised how knowledgeable this guy (Angel) was on the subject. He even offered me that in his opinion, the MSD is better, but wondered if the price was worth it. I agreed...$550 is quite a bit more than $200..


    Stay tuned for more...hope to get back on the car this weekend.
    Al 96 Ram Air T/A
    Mods: Build # 784 * Hotchkis STB * SFCs * Borla cat back w/QTP cut-out * AS&M/RK Sports Mid-length headers w/single CAT * Koni SA shocks on lower perch w/ lowered rear * Strano Hollow front & rear antisway bars * 1LE front/rear springs * 1LE aluminum driveshaft * Strange 4.10 gears w/ Zexel Torsen diff. * ARP bearing cap studs & aluminum diff cover* J&M Hotpart poly/poly rear LCAs and poly/poly panhard bar * RAM Powergrip clutch w/ LT4 PP and RAM billet Al flywheel * C5 Z06 brakes * C6 Z06 wheels * Spohn T/A * Spohn DS Loop * fully custom interior w/ custom audio

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    • #17
      She's ALIVE!

      Got her buttoned up late last night. It turned out I was right...the Optispark was bad. Put the new one in and she started on the second crank. Purred like a kitten. OK...not a kitten...more like a p@$$#@ off lion!

      I haven't hooked up the exhaust yet, so for now, just straight off the headers. I drove the 1/4 mile home so I can now work on fitting the Y to the stock Borla exhaust. I need to fab a 3" female ball flange to mate with the single cat. Might get to work on it this weekend.


      All in all, she felt great! The clutch has a nice feel to it, no chatter or anything. I did notice it was a bit difficult getting into reverse (notchy?) but I'm not sure what that's all about yet. Will have to see. I don't think changing thew clutch should have any effect on the shifter not wanting to slide into reverse....

      More to come. Will try to get some pictures soon, as I still need to put the hood on and clean up the smudge marks from the rebuild.
      Al 96 Ram Air T/A
      Mods: Build # 784 * Hotchkis STB * SFCs * Borla cat back w/QTP cut-out * AS&M/RK Sports Mid-length headers w/single CAT * Koni SA shocks on lower perch w/ lowered rear * Strano Hollow front & rear antisway bars * 1LE front/rear springs * 1LE aluminum driveshaft * Strange 4.10 gears w/ Zexel Torsen diff. * ARP bearing cap studs & aluminum diff cover* J&M Hotpart poly/poly rear LCAs and poly/poly panhard bar * RAM Powergrip clutch w/ LT4 PP and RAM billet Al flywheel * C5 Z06 brakes * C6 Z06 wheels * Spohn T/A * Spohn DS Loop * fully custom interior w/ custom audio

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      • #18
        Awesome, Al!

        It's a great feeling when you near the end of a big project like that, especially when you did most or all of the work yourself.

        Can't wait to see the pics.
        SOLD: 2002 Trans Am WS.6 - Black on Black - 6 Speed
        SLP Loudmouth Exhaust
        17K Miles

        2005 Acura TL - Silver on Black
        Navigation - Surround Audio - Bluetooth

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        • #19
          Darn it! I thought this weekend was it, but no luck! I managed to get my hands on the intermediate pipe to finish the exhaust. It was an off the shelf part from Dynomax too...just needed shortening.

          However, I was unable to slip-fit the pipe into the Borla. Unfortunately, I was unable to procure a pipe expander (needed a 3") locally, and I didn't want to have to separate the Borla to bring the pipe to a muffler shop. So, I had to order the tool online...should (hopefully) arrive this week.

          I also found a tiny coolant leak coming out of the 45 degree nipple on the "brand new" water pump. Dang it! I'm going to try and rotate the nipple a bit to see if that works, but my gut tells me, I'm going to have to remove the nipple, seal it up, and put it back on. You know, with all of the hoses and fittings I had to make, having a brand new part leak is frustrating. It's so slight that I can't really see it drip, because it evaporates on the warm housing. I only found it because I left a paper towel on the joint for a while to see if it absorbed any liquid.

          I ran out of 8mm stainless washers, so once I get some more, I'll finish up the hood reinstall.

          Looking forward to taking her out (then putting her away before it snows - lol).
          Al 96 Ram Air T/A
          Mods: Build # 784 * Hotchkis STB * SFCs * Borla cat back w/QTP cut-out * AS&M/RK Sports Mid-length headers w/single CAT * Koni SA shocks on lower perch w/ lowered rear * Strano Hollow front & rear antisway bars * 1LE front/rear springs * 1LE aluminum driveshaft * Strange 4.10 gears w/ Zexel Torsen diff. * ARP bearing cap studs & aluminum diff cover* J&M Hotpart poly/poly rear LCAs and poly/poly panhard bar * RAM Powergrip clutch w/ LT4 PP and RAM billet Al flywheel * C5 Z06 brakes * C6 Z06 wheels * Spohn T/A * Spohn DS Loop * fully custom interior w/ custom audio

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          • #20
            The hood is adjusted and finished!

            The I-pipe is on and finished!

            Now - for the double dumb-a@# tip of the day:

            If you hear an exhaust leak emanating from the passenger side bank, before spending 6 hours "triple checking" that all of the header bolts are tight (yes, even the front bolt which takes being double-jointed to reach) and then verifying that all of the spark plugs are tight (ugh!) make sure you check to see if you forgot to tighten the two nuts holding the EGR pipe onto the back of the intake.

            I picked up a Spohn driveshaft loop so I'll be installing that tonight. I'm a bit nervous about trying to remove the 45 degree pipe fitting on the waterpump to reseal, but I don't see any other way to stop it from weeping around the threads.

            I also picked up a pair of Aerofrce Interceptor gauges. This project may never end...
            Al 96 Ram Air T/A
            Mods: Build # 784 * Hotchkis STB * SFCs * Borla cat back w/QTP cut-out * AS&M/RK Sports Mid-length headers w/single CAT * Koni SA shocks on lower perch w/ lowered rear * Strano Hollow front & rear antisway bars * 1LE front/rear springs * 1LE aluminum driveshaft * Strange 4.10 gears w/ Zexel Torsen diff. * ARP bearing cap studs & aluminum diff cover* J&M Hotpart poly/poly rear LCAs and poly/poly panhard bar * RAM Powergrip clutch w/ LT4 PP and RAM billet Al flywheel * C5 Z06 brakes * C6 Z06 wheels * Spohn T/A * Spohn DS Loop * fully custom interior w/ custom audio

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            • #21
              Pictures? Come on man!!! Post some PICTURES!!

              Tracy
              2002 C5 M6 Convertible
              1994 Z28 M6 Convertible
              Current Mods:
              SLP Ultra-Z functional ramair, SS Spoiler, STB, SFCs, Headers, Clutch, Bilstein Shocks, and TB Airfoil. 17x9 SS rims with Goodyear tires, 160F T-Stat, MSD Blaster Coil, Taylor wires, Hurst billet shifter, Borla catback with QTP e-cutout, Tuned PCM, 1LE Swaybars, 1LE driveshaft, ES bushings, White gauges, C5 front brakes, !CAGS, Bose/Soundstream audio, CST leather interior, synthetic fluids

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