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  • cooling questions

    does anybody have any cooling updates or tricks for the 94 LT1 firebird. like any way to get fans to kick on at a reasonable temp, or anything, besides thermostat lower temp.

  • #2
    A manual fan switch. Rob B (Shoebox) has a make your own on his site http://shbox.com/1/schematics_wiring.html or you can buy them pre made http://www.slponline.com/view_product.asp?P=63011 .
    2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning

    1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD

    A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"

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    • #3
      First step would be to determine if your cooling system is in good condition.

      What coolant temperatures do you see sitting in traffic, at idle, in hot weather? .....cruising at 60mph? Does the heater put out adequate heat in cold weather? Does the system need frequent coolant addition? What coolant are you running..... type? ..... mix? When is the last time the system was flushed? How was it flushed? What modifiations does the engine have?
      Fred

      381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

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      • #4
        i have stock engine, its ram air, but i don't believe that makes a different. It takes forever to get warm air blowin in winter, it runs about 190-195 down highway. around 2 to 210 or a little above puting around. If you sit and let it idle for a while, it gets warm. I swear that the dang fans never come on, but i took it to a shop, the guys a friend that used to manage a shop at a pontiac dealer, he said the firebirds fans don't kick on till way to hot.

        I just replaced the opti, wires and plugs, and waterpump and thermostat(180). im still kinda havin trouble getting the low coolant light to stay off. after about 20 to 25 minutes the low Coolant lights been coming on, but the coolant is pretty much full.

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        • #5
          What is the best way to flush these style cars(LT-1)?

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          • #6
            It seems like your operating temps are just fine. Our fans don't come on til 210 i believe it is. I put in a 160 thermostat and reprogrammed the fans to kick on at 170, and i never go over 185.

            As for your warm air, it will take a little bit longer due to the fact that you have a lower degree thermostat than a stock one. If your heater takes really long though, or if the air it blows isn't that all hot, you can replace the heater core....guarantee you'll be blowin some hot air then.
            black 95 t/a, a4, beefed up tranny w/ higher stall converter, transgo shift kit, trans temp gauge, trans cooler, richmond 3.73's, loudmouth, hypertech programmer, 160 thermo, descreened maf, TB bypass and airfoil, trick flow intake elbow, underdrive pulleys, moroso cai, edelbrock panhard rod, bmr stb, slp sfc's, fiberglass firehawk hood, hawk pads, taylor wires, ngk plugs, royal purple fluids,...and hopefully more to come

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            • #7
              Originally posted by 95TransAm
              It seems like your operating temps are just fine. Our fans don't come on til 210 i believe it is. I put in a 160 thermostat and reprogrammed the fans to kick on at 170, and i never go over 185.

              As for your warm air, it will take a little bit longer due to the fact that you have a lower degree thermostat than a stock one. If your heater takes really long though, or if the air it blows isn't that all hot, you can replace the heater core....guarantee you'll be blowin some hot air then.
              180degF is the stock thermostat rating.

              Stock programming on the fans is 1st fan on (or low speed in later model years) at 226degF, 2nd fan on (or high speed) at 235degF.
              Fred

              381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

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              • #8
                Originally posted by Injuneer
                180degF is the stock thermostat rating.

                Stock programming on the fans is 1st fan on (or low speed in later model years) at 226degF, 2nd fan on (or high speed) at 235degF.
                The numbers i have heard are obviously wrong then. I had no idea that the fans came on that late, and for some reason i thought the stock thermo was 190 . I bow to you once again, and thanks for the info...hopefully one day I'll be a genius when it comes to these cars thanks to you
                black 95 t/a, a4, beefed up tranny w/ higher stall converter, transgo shift kit, trans temp gauge, trans cooler, richmond 3.73's, loudmouth, hypertech programmer, 160 thermo, descreened maf, TB bypass and airfoil, trick flow intake elbow, underdrive pulleys, moroso cai, edelbrock panhard rod, bmr stb, slp sfc's, fiberglass firehawk hood, hawk pads, taylor wires, ngk plugs, royal purple fluids,...and hopefully more to come

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                • #9
                  Our LT1 engines were intentionally designed to run at hotter, more eficient temperatures that the previous Gen 1 SBC. I fail to see why people feel the need to make them run cooler. I understand that having the intake air cool helps make power because cool air holds more oxygen, but does it help to cool down the entire engine?
                  Tracy
                  2002 C5 M6 Convertible
                  1994 Z28 M6 Convertible
                  Current Mods:
                  SLP Ultra-Z functional ramair, SS Spoiler, STB, SFCs, Headers, Clutch, Bilstein Shocks, and TB Airfoil. 17x9 SS rims with Goodyear tires, 160F T-Stat, MSD Blaster Coil, Taylor wires, Hurst billet shifter, Borla catback with QTP e-cutout, Tuned PCM, 1LE Swaybars, 1LE driveshaft, ES bushings, White gauges, C5 front brakes, !CAGS, Bose/Soundstream audio, CST leather interior, synthetic fluids

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                  • #10
                    so what does it take to adjust the temp the fan starts up, do you need the hypertech or what??

                    and thanks you guys for all your help.

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Jeff 95 Z28
                      A manual fan switch. Rob B (Shoebox) has a make your own on his site http://shbox.com/1/schematics_wiring.html or you can buy them pre made http://www.slponline.com/view_product.asp?P=63011 .
                      That's one way. Another way is with the hypertech programmer, but if all you are looking to do is kick start your fans sooner, than it's not the most practical route, as well as not being the cheaper route.
                      black 95 t/a, a4, beefed up tranny w/ higher stall converter, transgo shift kit, trans temp gauge, trans cooler, richmond 3.73's, loudmouth, hypertech programmer, 160 thermo, descreened maf, TB bypass and airfoil, trick flow intake elbow, underdrive pulleys, moroso cai, edelbrock panhard rod, bmr stb, slp sfc's, fiberglass firehawk hood, hawk pads, taylor wires, ngk plugs, royal purple fluids,...and hopefully more to come

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by TraceZ
                        Our LT1 engines were intentionally designed to run at hotter, more eficient temperatures that the previous Gen 1 SBC. I fail to see why people feel the need to make them run cooler. I understand that having the intake air cool helps make power because cool air holds more oxygen, but does it help to cool down the entire engine?
                        The main reason why i decided to get a lower t-stat and change the fans was simply because when i bought my car, it would always start to overheat. It's not fun having to blast the heat on a 90 degree august day
                        black 95 t/a, a4, beefed up tranny w/ higher stall converter, transgo shift kit, trans temp gauge, trans cooler, richmond 3.73's, loudmouth, hypertech programmer, 160 thermo, descreened maf, TB bypass and airfoil, trick flow intake elbow, underdrive pulleys, moroso cai, edelbrock panhard rod, bmr stb, slp sfc's, fiberglass firehawk hood, hawk pads, taylor wires, ngk plugs, royal purple fluids,...and hopefully more to come

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