Help: I have a bad mis-fire!!!

[RyanB58]

Actually, I am positive I have the wires into the correct harnesses, but I did end up breaking the clip that holds the opti wiring harness connector in.

[Jeff_in_Atl]

Jeff,
I happened to notice you did an M6 conversion. Any input into this, how did it go. I have pondered this for quite some time. Anyway, thanks again!
Ryan

Here are some previous threads discussing the A4 to M6 conversion.
http://www.f-body.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9428
http://www.f-body.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9174
http://www.f-body.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9349
http://www.f-body.com/forum/showthread.php?t=8977
The hardest part is getting every single part you need. I spent a whole day looking for pressure plate bolts.
Lessons learned;
1, Do not get a fly wheel Blanchard ground unless you have good dental insurance.
2, Pre plan how you are going to get the computer re-flashed to adjust for the difference in the VSS sensor. The A4 puts out 40 pulses per revolution while the M6 puts out 17 ppr. That means your speedometer reads about 1/2 the actual speed. I still have not gotten mine fixed.
3, Do not cut the hole for the shifter until you mark the floor pan using the shifter boot as a template. I didn't have the shifter boot when I cut mine and cut it just a little too far to the passenger side.
4. Plan on the better part of the day just to put in the pedal assembly. You can put it in before you park the car for the transmission swap. (i.e. many days in advance)
5. When you go to drop the A4 out, unbolt the torque converter from the flywheel. I like to never have gotten the A4 to slide back far enough to get it to clear the torque converter.
6. Last but not least, remove the oil pressure sender from the back of the engine. If you don't you might break it. I broke mine. A deep well socket is not deep enough for the sender. You can buy a sending unit socket from the car parts store that is made for removing the sender. I got mine from AutoZone.