Dyno Results(I'm not MAD)........

[N20LT4Bird]

Originally posted by Joe 1320
This mod will quicken the rate of the timing advance, you'll have to run premium fuel and the throttle response will definately be better. .

Does this change the total advance? I always run premium fuel , but im wondering if this would be wise with a 100 HP shot of juice.

[M3EATER - GG '00 WS6 T/A]

No.... it won't change the total advance.

I do it on my LS1 & it does give a boost in throttle respose, but not a power gain at upper RPM & WOT.


Gordon

[NorthernSS]

I am goin to change to a CAI but which one do you suggest? I don't know about the TB bypass. Why would GM design it that way then? I have heard it is not good in cold weather areas(I do live in Vancouver)???? Will I actually see HP improvements from a 1LE Drive Shaft? All great suggestions and I will take most into consideration and anymore would be great. Thanks.

[Al 96 Ram Air T/A]

Seems light in the pants to me too...

I have a very similar mod. list as you, except I've ported and polished a set of LT4 SS manifolds. I put down 280 hp and 309 ft-lbs.

Are you high above sea level? Could account for a slight power drop.

As for the TB bypass...no problems. NJ gets some seriously could winters and I have had zero problems. The heat from the engine is plenty to keep the throttle from icing up. GM aired on the side of caution with the TB heater hose...it's not necessary.

I would ditch the Bosch plugs (I'm assuming platinum) and go with a good copper plug. I use NGK V-power. Works great, just needs to be changed every 30K or so. Also, get a 160 degree stat. Our LT1's like the cooler temps. This works even better if you could get your fans reprogrammed to come on earlier. I have the 1LE shaft, but I doubt you will see an increase in the rear wheel hp....it simply reduces rotational mass for a quicker spool up. I doubt it netted me more than a couple of hp points. I hope you've had a good coolant flush performed??? My dexcool was very sludgy after only 40K (or five years). Hot spots do to poor circulation of the coolant will cause detonation and engine retard (remove timing) ...all power killers.

Are you using a low restriction filter? i.e. K&N?

I had good luck descreening my MAF and cleaning it up (light porting). It leaned out my mixture a bit. Some people have had problems...it helped me.

If your real concerned, do a compression check, or better yet, a leakdown check...best way to figure out if all 8 cylinders are livin' the good life.

Other than that, remember, not all dyno's are the same. I've heard of people going to three different shops and getting three different sets of numbers...and the range was huge. Don't overly fret. Even though my numbers look great, I have a real hard time getting down the 1/4 mile quickly. From my experience, LT1's had a huge build difference. I've heard of real powerful motors and real dogs. It seems the tolerances on the builds from the factory were not very tight. The stamped rockers should be 1.5, but many people have found a large variation, anywhere from 1.45 - 1.55. If you get stuck with a few 1.45, your power could suffer. I'm willing to bet that on the LT1's that seem very healthy you'll find a few of the rockers are on the high side of things

Needless to say, take the numbers with a grain of salt. Your mods. are smart. Make sure each works with the previous. For example, don't mod the heck out of the intake but leave the exhaust untouched. Or, don't be fooled like others and get a huge 58 mm TB with 38 lb injectors if you haven't done anything to the heads. Not only is it overkill, but it'll kill your power.

If I were you, I'd look to modify the rockers with a good set of 1.6 rollers. Then consider a cam, (hot cam works great if you want to stay emissions legal). Me, I'd at least do a compression check to verify the engine is healthy. If it is, use the dyno numbers as a before and after reference. Increase in power is the real key...not so much the number.

[Joe 1320]

I would reconsider getting the cold air kit. You already have it, the ram air portion doesn't come into play until higher speeds. Save the money for other mods. If you didn't have an SS, that is a different story.

A lighter driveshaft takes less power to rotate, so more power is getting to the wheels.
Here ya go: http://www.ws6.com/mod-1.htm

[NorthernSS]

I am about 50-100 ft above sea level. i should have included before: barometric pressure was 30.23, Intake Air Temp was 77.1 if those make a diff. I don't even know what they mean. I want a CAI for all the time power not jusat high speed power. I can prob find one for cheap.

[Joe 1320]

Originally posted by NorthernSS
I want a CAI for all the time power not jusat high speed power. I can prob find one for cheap.

HELLO.......I'm not trying to flame you here, but you already have cold air! That was the whole idea for the SS and WS6 hoods and their intake. If you don't want to believe that fact, go ahead and waste your dough on another cold air kit and your gains will be zero. Don't say we didn't warn you.

the standard Z28 and T/A draw their air from underhood, the SS and WS6 draw their air from above the hood in the outside air. Another cold air kit will give you nothing! Nada, zero, no gain, even a possible loss with a poor designed kit. What you can benefit from is a IAT relocation kit or a IAT resistor mod. The position of the factory IAT on the SS is right above the engine and is prone to heat soak, resulting in the IAT reading higher than actual temps after warmup. That is what you want to address, not another cold air kit.

[Al 96 Ram Air T/A]

Originally posted by Joe 1320
HELLO.......Another cold air kit will give you nothing! Nada, zero, no gain, even a possible loss with a poor designed kit.

Joe is right. Your intake already benifits from "cold air" . You will not gain anything from changing the plumbing. Have you addressed the filter? Might see a hp or two there.

[NorthernSS]

Sorry, some times the fingers sound angry when they type, i didn't mean anything by it. You guys know more than I do so i'll give these great suggestions a try. Sorry.

[Al 96 Ram Air T/A]

No problem friend...

This is first and foremost a friendly advice site...we are happy to entertain all opinions. Quite a few of us have been on-board for over seven years now...we don't hold grudges....

Good Luck!

[Joe 1320]

Originally posted by NorthernSS
Sorry, some times the fingers sound angry when they type, i didn't mean anything by it. You guys know more than I do so i'll give these great suggestions a try. Sorry.

I didn't take it that way at all. We're here to help, bro.