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Any tips on changing Thremostats on an LS1

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  • Any tips on changing Thremostats on an LS1

    I recently got my hands on the Helms manuals for my car, and have had a 160 thermostat sitting around since last october so I feel it is time to install it.

    I have been told the trick to refill the antifreeze without trappng air is to disconnect the hose that goes from the engine to the throttle body, fill and run till the disconnected hose begins to spill out and reconnect. ( A friend has ls1edit (infinite license) so I can get him to change th fans)

    Any other tricks that might be useful? And should I buy the coolant from GM or the orange stuff and mix with distilled (never changed the fluid since car was delivered)
    Rhode Island Red *Lurker since 1997*

    2002 Firehawk #0035/1503 !Cags | !Air | !PCV | Airborn-coated Kooks LT's | Powerbond UD Pulley | Custom Cam | Ported Oil pump | LS2 timing chain | Comp 918's | Hardened push rods | LSS | BMR STB | SLP Bolt-on SFC's | drill mod |TB Bypass | Ported TB | Custom Dyno tuning | 160* thermostat | LS7 Clutch
    Ordered: May 1, 2001 Built: June 1, 2001 Delivered August 25, 2001
    pics and info

  • #2
    Are you aware that you could have adjusted the temperature of your stock t'stat with "shims"?
    Fred

    381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

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    • #3
      Thermostat Replacement (5.7L Engine)
      Removal Procedure
      Important: The thermostat and thermostat housing MUST be replaced as an assembly. The thermostat is not serviceable separately.






      Open the radiator drain cock. Partially drain the radiator.
      Notice: Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.

      Close the drain cock.

      Tighten
      Tighten the drain cock to 2 N·m (18 lb in).

      Reposition the radiator outlet hose clamp at the water pump.
      Remove the radiator outlet hose from the water pump inlet.



      Remove the water pump inlet bolts.
      Remove the water pump inlet.



      The O-ring seal is integral to the thermostat housing.
      Remove the thermostat.
      Installation Procedure




      Install a new thermostat and housing.
      Ensure that the new thermostat housing has an O-ring seal and is in the groove correctly.



      Notice: Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.

      Install the water pump inlet and bolts.

      Tighten
      Tighten the water pump inlet bolts to 15 N·m (11 lb ft).





      Install the radiator outlet hose to the water pump inlet.
      Position the radiator outlet hose clamp at the water pump.
      Add coolant.



      If u need Pictures let me know!!
      Eddie
      2000 M6 Trans Am
      Tune+exhaust=344WHP

      Comment


      • #4
        Thanks, I got the manuals for the pics. I just want to be sure I get all the air out of the system (air is easily trapped if you dont remove that block-throttle body hose uponm fillup)
        Rhode Island Red *Lurker since 1997*

        2002 Firehawk #0035/1503 !Cags | !Air | !PCV | Airborn-coated Kooks LT's | Powerbond UD Pulley | Custom Cam | Ported Oil pump | LS2 timing chain | Comp 918's | Hardened push rods | LSS | BMR STB | SLP Bolt-on SFC's | drill mod |TB Bypass | Ported TB | Custom Dyno tuning | 160* thermostat | LS7 Clutch
        Ordered: May 1, 2001 Built: June 1, 2001 Delivered August 25, 2001
        pics and info

        Comment


        • #5
          ok I installed the 160 Thermostat . While I filled the car up (The new prestone all car all color 50/50 coolant) ran the engine , with the throttle body water hose disconnected, and filled up until I couldn't no more and the water began coming out of the Throttle body hose.
          Went for a couple of cruises, to heat cycle the t-stat. allowed to cool off and filled up what was needed.

          Interesting note though - The 2000+ (or was it 1999's) F-body's water temp gauge is supposed to be set as an idiot gauge (or gage on the drivers console ) where the needle slowly goes up to 210, and will stay put there from then on, no matter what the real temperature is...well my cars temp gage doesn't get up to 210* anymore, it actually stays noticeable below it so why would an idiot gauge show a markedly lower temp?

          I'm wondering if they redisigned it in 1999/2000 as an idiot gauge once it reaches 210* ? hmm...
          Rhode Island Red *Lurker since 1997*

          2002 Firehawk #0035/1503 !Cags | !Air | !PCV | Airborn-coated Kooks LT's | Powerbond UD Pulley | Custom Cam | Ported Oil pump | LS2 timing chain | Comp 918's | Hardened push rods | LSS | BMR STB | SLP Bolt-on SFC's | drill mod |TB Bypass | Ported TB | Custom Dyno tuning | 160* thermostat | LS7 Clutch
          Ordered: May 1, 2001 Built: June 1, 2001 Delivered August 25, 2001
          pics and info

          Comment


          • #6
            Yeah, I have read the same thing about the temp gauges on the 99 and newer cars. Wondering if that is true, just completed this mod myself. Does the older sender fit the late model cars and make the gauge really work?
            2001 Z28 A4 - 160 deg t-stat, 3.42 gears, WS6 sway bars, rear springs and shocks, UMI SFC's, Torque Arm and STB, leather Firebird seats, Borla, SLP Y-pipe and lid, ZO6 cam and springs - 332 RWHP and 346 RWTQ, not bad for 'almost stock' - work in progress
            "Black, the fastest color"

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