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Temp guage hits the red . need your help

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  • Temp guage hits the red . need your help

    Hey Guys ..

    Just heading home after work ... then I noticed the check guage light is one ... scanned and found that the engine temp guage is right at the red. I quickly pull over and shut the car down. I pop the hood and noticed that the overflow cap is off and fluid is at the top bubbling over. I look back and there is a trail of fluid down the freeway. So I let her cool down and limp my way to a point. Check the fluid strip and it is dry. I have my wife bring me some dex-cool and water fill her up and limp back home. I made it home and after a few hours of letting her cool down completly I went out to see what was up. Popped the radiator cap and it was way low. So cracked the top bleed screw and started to fill her up. Nothing was coming out of the bleed screw. The water level in the radiator was at the top. I turned the car on and still nothing coming out the bleed screw. The only thing happening is the temp guage is rising so I shut her down and here I am.

    I replaced the water pump about a year or two ago along with the thermostat.

    What could it be???? Blockage in the radiator???

    Any help would be appreciated
    97 TA, M6, JBA ceramic coated headers, Borla Cat-back exhaust, 1.6 RR, 160 Thermo, LT4 knock sensor, CAI, Bils, Hotchkis all around, GT rotors, B&M shifter, Magnecor wires, Granatelli MAF
    In the shop LT4 Intake and heads.

  • #2
    Probably blockage to the radiator. Built up dirt, leaves, garbage from the road. Had the same problem a couple years ago. Cleaned out my radiator and the problem went away.
    Hercules



    2008 Sunburst Metallic HHR LT

    Comment


    • #3
      Like DJ said, I would also start by having the radiator cleaned out. We have a place in town called Judd's radiator shop and they have a way to really clean them out well. Just pull the radiator from the car and take it to them for cleaning. reinstall it and check for leaks.

      Are the electric fans coming on?
      Tracy
      2002 C5 M6 Convertible
      1994 Z28 M6 Convertible
      Current Mods:
      SLP Ultra-Z functional ramair, SS Spoiler, STB, SFCs, Headers, Clutch, Bilstein Shocks, and TB Airfoil. 17x9 SS rims with Goodyear tires, 160F T-Stat, MSD Blaster Coil, Taylor wires, Hurst billet shifter, Borla catback with QTP e-cutout, Tuned PCM, 1LE Swaybars, 1LE driveshaft, ES bushings, White gauges, C5 front brakes, !CAGS, Bose/Soundstream audio, CST leather interior, synthetic fluids

      Comment


      • #4
        With over 100,000 miles on it I think if it is the radiator I will just replace it.

        Does anyone have any other ideas or suggestions?

        I just want to be sure or at least have a set of possible solutions before I decide what to do. If it is something in the motor itself I will have to take it in. If it is something like the radiator, thermo, water pump I will fix it myself.

        97 TA, M6, JBA ceramic coated headers, Borla Cat-back exhaust, 1.6 RR, 160 Thermo, LT4 knock sensor, CAI, Bils, Hotchkis all around, GT rotors, B&M shifter, Magnecor wires, Granatelli MAF
        In the shop LT4 Intake and heads.

        Comment


        • #5
          drain the coolant, pop a graden hose in rad cap, take off lower house, turn water on(not full bout 1/4 way on) see if anything comes out the lower house. also, what color is the coolant?
          2009 Honda Civic EX- the daily beater

          old toys - 1983 trans am, 1988 trans am, 1986 IROC-Z, 2002 Ram Off-Road, 1984 K10, 1988 Mustang GT, 2006 Silverado 2500HD

          Comment


          • #6
            You didnt answer my question:

            Originally posted by TraceZ
            Are the electric fans coming on?
            Tracy
            2002 C5 M6 Convertible
            1994 Z28 M6 Convertible
            Current Mods:
            SLP Ultra-Z functional ramair, SS Spoiler, STB, SFCs, Headers, Clutch, Bilstein Shocks, and TB Airfoil. 17x9 SS rims with Goodyear tires, 160F T-Stat, MSD Blaster Coil, Taylor wires, Hurst billet shifter, Borla catback with QTP e-cutout, Tuned PCM, 1LE Swaybars, 1LE driveshaft, ES bushings, White gauges, C5 front brakes, !CAGS, Bose/Soundstream audio, CST leather interior, synthetic fluids

            Comment


            • #7
              I honestly don't recall.

              The only thing that sticks in my mind is that no fluid came out of the top bleeder. I have changed out the thermo a few times over the years and know that stuff should come out it but not this time.

              She has been sitting over night so when I get home I will check some things out based on what I hear back from the board.
              97 TA, M6, JBA ceramic coated headers, Borla Cat-back exhaust, 1.6 RR, 160 Thermo, LT4 knock sensor, CAI, Bils, Hotchkis all around, GT rotors, B&M shifter, Magnecor wires, Granatelli MAF
              In the shop LT4 Intake and heads.

              Comment


              • #8
                I never get any water out the bleeders until the engine warms up and the system pressurizes. To fill my system I use the following steps:

                1) Fill radiator until it is at the top (be patient to allow it to settle in)
                2) Replace cap and start engine
                3) Allow engine to run until the system pressurizes
                4) Place rags around the bleeders to absorb any fluid and open the screws
                5) Allow them to bleed for a few seconds and close them

                done!

                I'm not sure if this is the "textbook" way to fill the system, but I've done it this way many times without any problems.
                Tracy
                2002 C5 M6 Convertible
                1994 Z28 M6 Convertible
                Current Mods:
                SLP Ultra-Z functional ramair, SS Spoiler, STB, SFCs, Headers, Clutch, Bilstein Shocks, and TB Airfoil. 17x9 SS rims with Goodyear tires, 160F T-Stat, MSD Blaster Coil, Taylor wires, Hurst billet shifter, Borla catback with QTP e-cutout, Tuned PCM, 1LE Swaybars, 1LE driveshaft, ES bushings, White gauges, C5 front brakes, !CAGS, Bose/Soundstream audio, CST leather interior, synthetic fluids

                Comment


                • #9
                  well I came home .. filled up the car with more fluids and turned her on. I let it run for a little while for temp to build and to see/hear the gurgling of the fluids as it starts swooshing around. Funny thing not being stuck on the side of the freeway ..its amazing what you CAN hear. Well I stuck my ear around and I hear this whining sound from what looks like the thermostat/water pump area. Now I am not trying to wish the ball in the cup but I am figuring either some is preventing fluid from getting to the pump or the pump is F'd up and sending the fluid around the loop.

                  what do you guys think??
                  97 TA, M6, JBA ceramic coated headers, Borla Cat-back exhaust, 1.6 RR, 160 Thermo, LT4 knock sensor, CAI, Bils, Hotchkis all around, GT rotors, B&M shifter, Magnecor wires, Granatelli MAF
                  In the shop LT4 Intake and heads.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Sounds like it could be the waterpump . Pumps are only about $89 at your local Napa so if that is your culprit it isn't a big kick in the wallet as say a radiator.
                    1997 6-spd WS6 Trans Am

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Does anyone out there use a different water pump than stock? I thought I heard someone using a gm performance one or an aluminum aftermarket pump. I am going to call Stewarts later to see. Also, anyone use a Fluidyne radiator? I am going to upgrage both parts and switch over to the "green" stuff while I am at it.
                      97 TA, M6, JBA ceramic coated headers, Borla Cat-back exhaust, 1.6 RR, 160 Thermo, LT4 knock sensor, CAI, Bils, Hotchkis all around, GT rotors, B&M shifter, Magnecor wires, Granatelli MAF
                      In the shop LT4 Intake and heads.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        The pump housing is aluminum and to my knowlege there are no aftermarket housings. The shaft driven impellor can be replaced with an electric unit made by a couple different companies. You will still need to use the stock aluminum housing. Do a search on "electric water pump"

                        There is a small HP advantage with the electric, but at the same time it is slightly less reliable.
                        Tracy
                        2002 C5 M6 Convertible
                        1994 Z28 M6 Convertible
                        Current Mods:
                        SLP Ultra-Z functional ramair, SS Spoiler, STB, SFCs, Headers, Clutch, Bilstein Shocks, and TB Airfoil. 17x9 SS rims with Goodyear tires, 160F T-Stat, MSD Blaster Coil, Taylor wires, Hurst billet shifter, Borla catback with QTP e-cutout, Tuned PCM, 1LE Swaybars, 1LE driveshaft, ES bushings, White gauges, C5 front brakes, !CAGS, Bose/Soundstream audio, CST leather interior, synthetic fluids

                        Comment

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