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  • #16
    Originally posted by Craig 94 TA GT
    I I did buy ARP 12 pt header bolts because everyone on cz28 says the stage 8's are a PITA to remove .
    No...... if you don't get locking bolts, they will loosen over time. I couldn't care less what others have said, I can only go by personal experience over the last 25 years of header installs. I have probably done 15 installs on various cars of mine, not to mention the countless ones done on customer's or friend's cars. If stage 8s scare you (which they shouldn't) Breslin makes a locking bolt that doesn't use clips, albiet a little more dough. You can take it to the bank that unless the bolts lock, they will back out eventually and cause the gaskets to burn through. On a whim, I tried using 12 pt. header bolts last time and guess what? They loosened up and caused a leak. This just verifies what I believed in and I was stupid enough to try and beat the system. I won't do that ever again.

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    • #17
      Originally posted by Joe 1320
      No...... if you don't get locking bolts, they will loosen over time.
      Yup...what he said. I've experienced the same thing.
      Joe K.
      '11 BMW 328i
      '10 Matrix S AWD
      Previously: '89 Plymouth Sundance Turbo, '98 Camaro V6, '96 Camaro Z28, '99 Camaro Z28, '04 Grand Prix GTP

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      • #18
        ARP studs are better and stronger than any locking bolt, and easier to install because it's all lined up for you - there's no struggling to get the bolt in that last hole, no crossthreading, and no galled holes. But there's not much room for them in a LT1 F-body. They only work if you trim the little starter nubs off and that gives them enough clearance so you can get the flanges off the ends. The nuts don't need to be tightened past one heat cycle, especially if used with aluminum gaskets. I think I haven't tightened mine since I put the heads on, and no leaks with the Earls gaskets. I wanted it to be maintenence free, and it is

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        • #19
          Kevin, are those ARP studs you're talking about different from the header bolts? It seems like they are different. These are the ones I got: http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...=egnsearch.asp

          I am about to return or sell them for some stage 8's per Joe's advice...or maybe the correct ARP studs?
          94 Black T/A GT, Advanced Induction 355, 3200 stall, built 4L60E, Moser 9", Baer Brakes, Shooting for 11s...

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          • #20
            Studs are double ended screws which thread into the head and stick out about 3/4" and you slip the headers over those and put the nuts on. Those bolts you picked look like good quality, but still have some of the pitfalls of header bolts. They will work, though (millions of guys use them), but aren't as good as the studs or the locking bolts. I think this is the part I used, or something similar - at least you can see get an idea what I'm talking about - Summit ARP-400-1402. Remember, I had to trim the little round nubs off, which took a while (a minor PITA).

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            • #21
              Well, I finally got a response from SLP.

              "Sorry for the long delay with your header order with Summit Racing.
              Recently, SLP has experienced a mad rush with these headers to be very honest. With that our shop had to build some extras to keep up with the spike in sales on them. SLP has shipped the headers to Summit Racing this past Friday 7/8 so they should expect them this week so they can then ship to you.
              I hope this helps and thank you for being patient."

              Looks like they're coming soon, and it seems like the backorder is uncommon. Hopefully they made them well, and I'll make sure to check the mating surface for evenness. Thanks for all your guys' advice and help.
              94 Black T/A GT, Advanced Induction 355, 3200 stall, built 4L60E, Moser 9", Baer Brakes, Shooting for 11s...

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