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  • #1

    I can't explain what is happening .. help please

    Hey guys ...

    As you may know I had a problem a few weeks ago where the temp guage hit the red. I quickly shut her down and limped her home (a few miles). Well when I got her home I heard this whining sound coming from the water pump. Over the weekend I replaced the thermo, water pump and radiator.

    so here is where I get stuck or lost ..

    First off can someone confirm if where the hose from fill can connects to the radiator? There are two openings at/near the radiator cap and I need to make sure the orientation is correct.

    What is prompting that question and giving me a funny feeling something else is wrong is that I have reversed the two hoses (first on top then on bottom) and the fill can in both cases ends up with water coming out the top. Now I have only drained out the fluids from the radiator NOT the block to completely remove ALL the fluid however so far I have dumped about 5 gallons of water and two things seem to be happening. Water backs out of the fill can and the radiator seems to suck up water pretty fast. Its like it is evaporating or going someplace else. The temp guage never crosses the 185 mark and when it reaches that level the fans come on. I don' want to say it because I don't know but could something else be wrong that is more major than I think???

    I hope I explained it well .... I can clarify if you need me to.

    thanks ....
    97 TA, M6, JBA ceramic coated headers, Borla Cat-back exhaust, 1.6 RR, 160 Thermo, LT4 knock sensor, CAI, Bils, Hotchkis all around, GT rotors, B&M shifter, Magnecor wires, Granatelli MAF
    In the shop LT4 Intake and heads.
    Tags: None
  • #2
    What do you mean by: "Water backs out of the fill can and the radiator seems to suck up water pretty fast"? Water fills the can as it heats up. Obviously it shouldn't overflowing... so instinct tells me you're either overfilling or overheating. But, I'm not sure what you mean by the radiator is sucking up water. The level just goes down?
    Dave M
    Life, liberty, and the pursuit of all who threaten it!


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    • #3
      I just went out to my 97 and here is how it is connected:
      from the radiator cap down
      top hose fitting (looks small) = overflow tank
      second hode fitting down (looks a little larger) = runs to the throttle body (at least it did before the by-pass operation)
      3rd threaded fitting =trans cooler (hard line)
      1997 Trans AM WS6 vert
      1 of 463
      LT4 knock module
      D. Goetz sub-frame connectors.
      strut tower brace
      SLP fan switch
      160* t/stat
      Drilled and slotted rotors/ Earls SS brake lines/ Hawk pads
      DMS 1.5" progressive lowering springs


      Pictures Here

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      • #4
        thanks for taking the time guys ...

        Bad .. thank you for going and checking. That is where it is now. I clearly had it reversed to start off with but when I looked at where the bleed screw was in relation to the hose it dawned on me that it will never rise high enough to back water out the screw so I had changed it to where it is which you just confirmed ... thank you ..

        Dave....

        When you fill up from the can and pull the level tester it has a cold and hot level reading. With the radiator cap off I look inside to make sure that the radiator has fluids such that it will spill out the bleeder screw .. you know .. to get the air out. Well, as I add water to the radiator the level in that fill can is rising to a point where water is coming out of it from the top. I have to keep adding water into the radiator because the level inside seems to lower. it perks up to the top .... and then it lowers a good bit.. so I add more water.
        I hope that make sense
        97 TA, M6, JBA ceramic coated headers, Borla Cat-back exhaust, 1.6 RR, 160 Thermo, LT4 knock sensor, CAI, Bils, Hotchkis all around, GT rotors, B&M shifter, Magnecor wires, Granatelli MAF
        In the shop LT4 Intake and heads.

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        • #5
          Do you have a faulty radiator cap that won't hold pressure causing fluid to boil into the resevoir and the engine to overheat?

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          • #6
            Kevin...

            During this evolution I had the cap off because I was trying to get the air out of the system. What that not be the best way to get air out?

            Maybe what I need to do is let her cool down .. fill her up .. put the cap on tight and see what happens.
            97 TA, M6, JBA ceramic coated headers, Borla Cat-back exhaust, 1.6 RR, 160 Thermo, LT4 knock sensor, CAI, Bils, Hotchkis all around, GT rotors, B&M shifter, Magnecor wires, Granatelli MAF
            In the shop LT4 Intake and heads.

            Comment

            • #7
              It takes about 3 tries to get all the air out. As the system starts to fill up, it will reach the point where the radiator needs to be left shut or it will rise & spill out. Then you just finish the bleed & top it off when it cools down & fill the resevoir to the cold fill line. Takes a little patience. If it overheats, then it is hard to get it refilled right because there are steam pockets in the heads so, in my opinion, it's best to fill it cold, bleed it once it's hot, but not if it's overheated. I'm sure a lot of guys have done it differently - I don't have an exact set routine - maybe I should read the manual next time

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              • #8
                Oh one other thing ... when using the green stuff ... is it 100% 50/50 with distilled water...are you also adding water wetter?

                How do tell if seals/gaskets have been messed up as a result of the high temperature reading? Are they obvious signs?
                97 TA, M6, JBA ceramic coated headers, Borla Cat-back exhaust, 1.6 RR, 160 Thermo, LT4 knock sensor, CAI, Bils, Hotchkis all around, GT rotors, B&M shifter, Magnecor wires, Granatelli MAF
                In the shop LT4 Intake and heads.

                Comment

                • #9
                  Originally posted by soCalTA
                  Oh one other thing ... when using the green stuff ... is it 100% 50/50 with distilled water...are you also adding water wetter?

                  How do tell if seals/gaskets have been messed up as a result of the high temperature reading? Are they obvious signs?
                  First, don't mix the orange and the green stuff. They are not compatible.

                  next, a cooling system pressure test would be a good idea. You can borrow the unit from autozone and test the cooling system as well as the cap. If you toasted the headgasket, the system won't hold pressure.

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                  • #10
                    no I wasn't going to mix greeen and orange .. this weekend going to totally flush out and remove any orange I have left.

                    On the subject of the green.... would it be 100% green, 50% green and 50% distilled water?

                    Thanks on the pressure test. I will do that this weekend as well.
                    97 TA, M6, JBA ceramic coated headers, Borla Cat-back exhaust, 1.6 RR, 160 Thermo, LT4 knock sensor, CAI, Bils, Hotchkis all around, GT rotors, B&M shifter, Magnecor wires, Granatelli MAF
                    In the shop LT4 Intake and heads.

                    Comment

                    • #11
                      Originally posted by soCalTA
                      50% green and 50% distilled water?
                      That's the preferred mix.

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                      • #12
                        great ..thank you very much for your help
                        97 TA, M6, JBA ceramic coated headers, Borla Cat-back exhaust, 1.6 RR, 160 Thermo, LT4 knock sensor, CAI, Bils, Hotchkis all around, GT rotors, B&M shifter, Magnecor wires, Granatelli MAF
                        In the shop LT4 Intake and heads.

                        Comment

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