I know you run the 50mm ones but this guy is using the 36mm and he says they fit and don't stick out.http://mywebpages.comcast.net/mikevtaylor/17x11/17x11.htm
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Pagin Fred 36MM offset ZR1...
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Pagin Fred 36MM offset ZR1...
Kbddsfc,B&M Ripper,Ws6 Rims,Hotchkiss Stb,Bmr Lca,Gwphr,Strange 4:10's,LPEds,Borla,AS&M Headers,RT cat,Powerslot rotors,Hawk Pads R/Pf pads Fr,Mba shift knob,Slp Hood&Airbox,Holley Powershot filter,Fernco mod, Lt4km,Firebat decals,T/A Girdle,HPP.160stat,Bilstein shocks,Z06 Brakes,AFS ZR1's,GSD3's.Tags: None
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They don't look too bad in the pic's in that link, but they have to stick out 1/2" more on each side than the 50mm wheels on mine.
Go to CamaroZ28.com and go the the "Appearance" forum. There is a thread there.... something like "anyone got pics of 38mm 17x11's?".... do a search, and you should find it. There are some pictures of both in that thread.
Fred
381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor
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Just "testing the water" here..... my car is not a "street" car any more. I could always use a little extra $$$$ for say, a BMR tubular K-member and a-arms.....
What do you think I could sell my street wheels/tires for:
Wheels:
-AFS ZR1 replicas
-Polished finish w/ clearcoat
-plain center caps
-threaded steel valves, chrome caps
-Like new... maybe a couple tiny "dots" or fisheyes in the clearcoat.
-No lugnuts... unless you want the ones I drilled and tapped all the way through the closed end to fit my 3" studs.
-Tires mounted, high speed balanced, using stick-on weights on the inside of wheel
Front:
-17x9.5, 56mm offset.
-275/40-17 BFG KDW, less than 1,000 miles, like new.
Back:
-17x11, 50mm offset
-315/35R17 BFG Drag Radials, less than 1,000 miles, never a burnout. Like new.
I paid $1,600 for these new, and put about $100 into mounting and balancing.
What do you think they are worth?Fred
381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor
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I say put them on EBAY. I'd luv to get my hands on just the rims but the mod account is pretty bleak right now. Just did headers and springs /shocks.Kbddsfc,B&M Ripper,Ws6 Rims,Hotchkiss Stb,Bmr Lca,Gwphr,Strange 4:10's,LPEds,Borla,AS&M Headers,RT cat,Powerslot rotors,Hawk Pads R/Pf pads Fr,Mba shift knob,Slp Hood&Airbox,Holley Powershot filter,Fernco mod, Lt4km,Firebat decals,T/A Girdle,HPP.160stat,Bilstein shocks,Z06 Brakes,AFS ZR1's,GSD3's.
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Originally posted by Injuneer
What do you think they are worth?
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I just looked at the top link with the 315s on the front and rear. I can't imagine having to drive that on the street. I've seen 315s on the front before and it looks OK, but the way it must "hunt the grooves" has to be wicked. My Vette with 255s on the front was middle of the road. The 275s on the front of my Vette and the T/A started to make it a handfull. The 285s on the front that I have now can really tug the wheel on uneven pavement. I am really thinking about changing the wheel and tire combo to something like a 17x8 with a 255/45/17 up front with 17x11 and 315/35/17 out back. The handling balance might be a little off until I get the suspension dialed in, but it sure would help the problem of following the grooves in the road.
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Joe:
Have you ever noticed the rear tires "hunting"?
Here in NJ, the asphalt roads all have deep ruts from the 18-wheelers.... and as you note, there is the front "hunt" as the tires ride up and down the edges of the ruts. But under heavy acceleration, I have noticed the back end getting "squirrely"..... you can just feel it start to move from side to side as the tires grab opposite sides of the ruts... at least thats the only thing I can attribute it to. I never have that problem on concrete surfaces or at the track... very stable. But on asphalt roads with ruts it wanders a lot when I floor it. And it isn't just the stroker and the 315's... I noticed it with my bolt-on motor and 275's as well.Fred
381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor
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Originally posted by Injuneer
Joe:
Have you ever noticed the rear tires "hunting"?
Here in NJ, the asphalt roads all have deep ruts from the 18-wheelers.... and as you note, there is the front "hunt" as the tires ride up and down the edges of the ruts. But under heavy acceleration, I have noticed the back end getting "squirrely"..... you can just feel it start to move from side to side as the tires grab opposite sides of the ruts... at least thats the only thing I can attribute it to. I never have that problem on concrete surfaces or at the track... very stable. But on asphalt roads with ruts it wanders a lot when I floor it. And it isn't just the stroker and the 315's... I noticed it with my bolt-on motor and 275's as well.
I am wondering what the handling issues would be with the 315 rear and 255 front in these circumstances. I don't think I would mind steering corrections, I just don't like wrestling with the wheel.
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Uh oh
I dont like the sounds of these horror stories dealing with the tire stagger's. I just ordered a set of wheels and tires 17x 9.5 in the front and 17x11 in the rear with 275 45's in the front and 315 35's in the rear.... I live in pensacola florida and didnt think that the ruts were very bad and that i would have issues but i just saw the post from florida and Im hoping youre not describing my roads. So is it really that bad?? I understand i will wrestle with the wheel on occasion, well i hope just on occasion, but the "sling shotting" from lane to lane sounds like its not too much fun! Hope my massive investment in wheels and tires doesnt make my car a handful! Some words of encouragement or warning would be appreciated... Thanks
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98 z-two-8, I'm in your area. I've driven P'cola roads and they're ok except for all that construction on I-10/I-110. The different lane heights can be a hassle, but they are on just about anything you drive. The good thing about super wide tires are that grated roads don't cause you to hunt as much because the tires have such a huge contact patch over the area, so the grooves never "catch" the tire like on narrower ones. The "hunting" problem is most noticeable at intersections where cars sit on hot pavement and cause it to sink, and on roads that haven't been paved in a long time. Moffat Road over here in good ole Mobile used to be killer, but they retopped it and it went away. I sometimes had to ride the line to stay out of the ruts in the road. It's a combination of the width of the tire and the short sidewall heighth that causes the problem. But I've never been on a road in these two towns that would cause any serious problems for driving.
Check out www.gcfba.org , that's the f-body car club for Mobile/Pensacola. We're about to have a dyno day over here in Mobile, not to mention we have some guys that can hook that LS1 up with mods (as in installers and club discounts)."No, officer, that bottle is my onboard Halon system"
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Re: Uh oh
Originally posted by 98 z-two-8
I dont like the sounds of these horror stories dealing with the tire stagger's..................Hope my massive investment in wheels and tires doesnt make my car a handful! Some words of encouragement or warning would be appreciated... Thanks
My 17x9.5 with 285/40/17 on all four corners has been fantastic. with upgrades in the suspension and custom alignment, the car tracks neutral in the corners, can easily modulate throttle induced oversteer, and is purely awesome in the rain due to the Firestone SZ-50s. Now if I were to change wheel and tire combos, I would have to change alignment settings, experiment with different tire compounds, shocks, etc... to get the car totally balanced. That is what life is all about. Infinite choices.
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A hunting we will go...
Fred,
I have thew stock WS6 rims front and rear. WIth my Dunlop SP9000's, the car "tracks" quite a bit better than when I had the GSC's. However, under heavy acceleration, of which I never do (huh)... , the car is a bit jumpy. Could be the 4.10's, the Torsen diff., or the firmer suspension. Not sure, but I have experienced the occassional sideways hop you are refering to. Scary but liveableAl 96 Ram Air T/A
Mods: Build # 784 * Hotchkis STB * SFCs * Borla cat back w/QTP cut-out * AS&M/RK Sports Mid-length headers w/single CAT * Koni SA shocks on lower perch w/ lowered rear * Strano Hollow front & rear antisway bars * 1LE front/rear springs * 1LE aluminum driveshaft * Strange 4.10 gears w/ Zexel Torsen diff. * ARP bearing cap studs & aluminum diff cover* J&M Hotpart poly/poly rear LCAs and poly/poly panhard bar * RAM Powergrip clutch w/ LT4 PP and RAM billet Al flywheel * C5 Z06 brakes * C6 Z06 wheels * Spohn T/A * Spohn DS Loop * fully custom interior w/ custom audio
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Thank
All of that info is good to hear. I expected the car to wander in intersections and on 110 and 10, The way you guys were talking about it just made it seem like more of an issue. I am interested in getting together with an fbody club here in pcola, so get me some info if you would! thanks
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