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  • opti Question?

    ok im sure i need to do my opti... 120,000 miles... its time... but i was wondering.. do i have to by a new opti... or can i get that new MSD cap and rotor kit....I mean doesnt the opti go bad because the points wear thin inside the stock cap? any suggestions?

  • #2
    It's a combination of the normal erosion of the electrodes of the rotor & cap & possible corrosion in the optical encoder section (94 models) & possibly the connector up top & possible wear of the plain bearings that the whole thing turns in including the encoder. In an otherwise good running opti, a cap & rotor kit may do the job, but there is a possibility of seeing symptoms of the other problems while you're in there, then you may decide you need a new opti or risk having to redo it again later. You probably won't know until you take it apart.

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    • #3
      at 120K, I would just replace the entire thing. If mine lasts that long I will be very happy! Kevin is right of course, you could decide to just replace the cap and rotor... but... then you could easily be taking it all apart again in a few thousand miles to do it all again. IMO, it's not woth the savings if it doesn't provide peace of mind.
      Tracy
      2002 C5 M6 Convertible
      1994 Z28 M6 Convertible
      Current Mods:
      SLP Ultra-Z functional ramair, SS Spoiler, STB, SFCs, Headers, Clutch, Bilstein Shocks, and TB Airfoil. 17x9 SS rims with Goodyear tires, 160F T-Stat, MSD Blaster Coil, Taylor wires, Hurst billet shifter, Borla catback with QTP e-cutout, Tuned PCM, 1LE Swaybars, 1LE driveshaft, ES bushings, White gauges, C5 front brakes, !CAGS, Bose/Soundstream audio, CST leather interior, synthetic fluids

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      • #4
        Originally posted by 94T/A GT
        can i get that new MSD cap and rotor kit....?
        The problem is that MSD had not brought the part to market as of just a few weeks ago. Various catalogs have them as a product listing but MSD itself hasn't delivered. It keeps getting pushed back for whatever reason.

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        • #5
          As mentioned, one of the other weak points in the Opti is the bearing. Mine was almost impossible to turn at 50K miles. Replacing just the cap and rotor will leave you with the possibility of a worn out bearing. And, the optical sensor in mine was filled with rust particles, blinding the optical system. But the cap and rotor was just like new.

          Are you aware of the discount prices available from Jason Cromer/Sam Tayler and Dal Slabaugh/VanDevere Olds? Still an expensive piece, but only about 1/2 of what the dealer would charge you for the new part.
          Fred

          381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

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          • #6
            You can get a new opti for around 300-350 US. This is one of the parts that is better to buy new and shop around for. The local dealership here wanted to charge 1200 Cnd for it
            Just a note you should also replace the waterpump while your in there if you haven't recently, a bit more cost but it should be done because if it brakes it can take out the new opti and with that many miles on your car...
            94 Formula Firebird, 355, heads port and polished, cc503 cam, 30# injectors, PCMforless Tune, B&M 2400 stall, K&N CAI, BBK Sorty Headers, Magnaflow Highflow Cat, Borla Catback exhaust with electronic cutout.

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            • #7

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              • #8
                hey thanks for the input... im gonna order a new opti and put it on.. thanks agian

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