Mine's been INOP for 4 years. It happened after I changed the plugs and wires one time. Every other wire change, the light has still been on.
I locked them up only once in a downpour...couldn't see a stop sign in darkness. Still stopped in time though, and there weren't any other cars around anyway.
94 Black T/A GT, Advanced Induction 355, 3200 stall, built 4L60E, Moser 9", Baer Brakes, Shooting for 11s...
Mine has been like that for almost 3 years, my brothers TA was like that too from when he bought it 4 years ago. Was coming down a hill to a stoplight and i had bald tires went to brake and the ass end swung around on me. Stopped sideways almost on the line of the intersection, scared my fiance half to death and i think her younger sister almost lost her dinner. It was super dark out and wet. Dont know what causes it.
1995 LT1 bird
10" 2800 stall coan converter,beefed tranny, supreme shift,motive 373 gears,3 inch catback with a flowmaster muffler, pcmforless tuned,slp cold air intake,tb bypassed, better flowing intake elbow, air foil,poly trans mount.
275/40/17 Nitto NT555R extreme drags in rear
2005 Dode SRT-4
agp billet adjustable wastegate,Maxxfab 3 inch catless downpipe, borla catback ,K&N drop in filter,mapclamped,tuned,mopar blow off valve, Prothane motor mount inserts,21 pounds of boost!
6 dics cd changer, 10 inch MTX fully loaded with moonroof and viper style seats
Generally, it means there's a problem with one of the wheel sensors. Worth the time to check the harness connectors for each sensor, and clean them up with come electrical contact cleaner. If that doesn't work, a dealer or good brake shop can scan the ABS system for codes that will tell you what the problem is.
Fred
381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor
The connectors are located on the back side of the front wheel bearing hubs and on top of the rear differential ( 3 channel non traction control). If you have traction control, then the rears are at each wheel. They are easy to reach by getting the car into the air via either ramps or jack and stands.
Another thought... if you have the 3-channel setup with the rear sensor on the diff housing, pull the sensor out and look for an accumulation of iron particles. I"ve heard of that happening, but have never actually seen it.
Fred
381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor
as all ready mentioned check the conectors on the rear of the front wheel hubs and the multi plug at the back of the car where the feed from the diff sensor plugs in (3 chanel abs ) also check that you have not got a break light bulb out mine doen this and was worse at night when i had the lights on also when mine acted up it also knocked out the criuse control
http://www.pontiacdriversclub.co.uk/ keeping it pontiac in the the uk. 93 formula a4 ZR1 rims
C A I , B M R torque arm lower arms panhard rod and sub frame conectors borla adjustble with Q T P valve and no cat WHAT NEXT ?
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