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Car is currently under the knife..tips anyone?

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  • #1

    Car is currently under the knife..tips anyone?

    Okay, so last night I started tearing in to my car. I currently am replacing my water pump, opti, plugs, wires, belt, front seals, other small things, etc... Yesterday, managed to tear down everything to get my water pump off (took off cai, intake elbow, fans, drained coolant, unbolted power steering pump, air pump, ICM and coil), and now I'm down to my opti. I didn't have a puller on my to pull my crank off, so I unbolted 3 out of the 4 opti bolts and called it a night. Today, I only have a couple hours to work, so my goal is to replace my opti and start on my plugs and wires.

    Any tips that I should know of for anything coming up? Things I should take off before I even make an attempt at my plugs and wires? I'm pretty positive the opti can only go on one way, but is there anything I should be careful with to make sure I put it on the correct way? Finally, I want to clean out my air filter. What do you guys recommed to clean it with, and how? I've never done it before. When you oil the filter again, how much should you use and how should it be applied?

    Thanks guys,
    Chris
    black 95 t/a, a4, beefed up tranny w/ higher stall converter, transgo shift kit, trans temp gauge, trans cooler, richmond 3.73's, loudmouth, hypertech programmer, 160 thermo, descreened maf, TB bypass and airfoil, trick flow intake elbow, underdrive pulleys, moroso cai, edelbrock panhard rod, bmr stb, slp sfc's, fiberglass firehawk hood, hawk pads, taylor wires, ngk plugs, royal purple fluids,...and hopefully more to come
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  • #2
    You don't need to pull the hub, just take off the three bolts and then the outer part of the crank pulley will come off with a few light taps of a hammer. Now you can take the opti out.

    On the new water pump, I put in a hose in the weep hole to direct the future coolant leak away from the opti. Drill the weep hole out to 3/16" install a 90 deg. 3/16" vacum hose elbow, attach a couple of feet of 3/16" vacum hose to the elbow, route it over to the steering rack and tie off with a few wire ties. Then when it leaks the coolant will be in a noticeable spot.

    I left my air pump off, along with all of its piping, and plugged the fittings in the exhaust manifold (welded the fittings closed).

    Plugs and wires are a project no matter when you do them, this would be as good a time as any (unless the engine was not in the car).

    If its a K&N airfilter is washable, follow the directions on the recharge kit. If its a regular paper filter buy a new one again.
    The Old Guy! '94 z-28, m-6, t-tops, go-fast red, 316k. Now with '96 engine w/ Lt-4 hot cam, roller rockers, heavy duty timing chain, and Spec stage 2 clutch.

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    • #3
      Replace all the oil control seals in the front cover or you'll end up pulling it all apart again later on.

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      • #4
        Originally posted by Joe 1320
        Replace all the oil control seals in the front cover or you'll end up pulling it all apart again later on.
        Actually...when my opti first crapped out on me and I was getting help on these boards, you advised me to do this. Due to a lack of cash flow, only recently was I able to get everything I wanted and start tearing in to her.

        Today I only managed a couple hours of work, but I pulled off my crank pulley, took off my opti, and replaced all of the seals that you recommended

        Man I wish I had my larger pry bar and a seal installer with me. That distributor seal did not want to leave it's home. I'm sure as most of you know, a good way to pop out a seal is to stick a large pry bar in there (carefully of course), and just pop her out. I actually just learned this from a master tech who works at a chevy dealership nearby. My arse wound up using a hammer/screwdriver combo for 1/2 hour just to make sure I didn't damage the housing at all. As for putting the new one in, I spent probably 20 minutes trying to find something I could use to make sure it would cover up the whole seal so I could hammer it in evenly and flush. I wound up using a metal cap in the end...worked like a charm.
        black 95 t/a, a4, beefed up tranny w/ higher stall converter, transgo shift kit, trans temp gauge, trans cooler, richmond 3.73's, loudmouth, hypertech programmer, 160 thermo, descreened maf, TB bypass and airfoil, trick flow intake elbow, underdrive pulleys, moroso cai, edelbrock panhard rod, bmr stb, slp sfc's, fiberglass firehawk hood, hawk pads, taylor wires, ngk plugs, royal purple fluids,...and hopefully more to come

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        • #5
          Originally posted by pete
          You don't need to pull the hub, just take off the three bolts and then the outer part of the crank pulley will come off with a few light taps of a hammer. Now you can take the opti out.

          On the new water pump, I put in a hose in the weep hole to direct the future coolant leak away from the opti. Drill the weep hole out to 3/16" install a 90 deg. 3/16" vacum hose elbow, attach a couple of feet of 3/16" vacum hose to the elbow, route it over to the steering rack and tie off with a few wire ties. Then when it leaks the coolant will be in a noticeable spot.

          I left my air pump off, along with all of its piping, and plugged the fittings in the exhaust manifold (welded the fittings closed).

          Plugs and wires are a project no matter when you do them, this would be as good a time as any (unless the engine was not in the car).

          If its a K&N airfilter is washable, follow the directions on the recharge kit. If its a regular paper filter buy a new one again.
          I don't know about the south, but up here in the north, the underside of cars tend to get pretty rusted up. Althogh I've only owned the car for a year and a half, and minimally drove it in the winter when it was absolutely necessary; the person before me must have driven it a decent amount of times in the winter...that crank was on there like other. I took out those bolts, and a simple tap (and even a harder tap) wasn't going to budge anything. I wound up renting a puller and just pulled that piece off.

          Appreciate all of the advice though.

          I can't thank all you guys enough...my car wouldn't be where it is today without all of your guys' help
          black 95 t/a, a4, beefed up tranny w/ higher stall converter, transgo shift kit, trans temp gauge, trans cooler, richmond 3.73's, loudmouth, hypertech programmer, 160 thermo, descreened maf, TB bypass and airfoil, trick flow intake elbow, underdrive pulleys, moroso cai, edelbrock panhard rod, bmr stb, slp sfc's, fiberglass firehawk hood, hawk pads, taylor wires, ngk plugs, royal purple fluids,...and hopefully more to come

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          • #6
            just a thought but maybe a new radiator while you are at it. I installed a Fluidyne and I believe Fred (Injuneer) installed a Griffin.
            97 TA, M6, JBA ceramic coated headers, Borla Cat-back exhaust, 1.6 RR, 160 Thermo, LT4 knock sensor, CAI, Bils, Hotchkis all around, GT rotors, B&M shifter, Magnecor wires, Granatelli MAF
            In the shop LT4 Intake and heads.

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