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  • Dyno results...hmmmm...

    Well, I'll let the sheet speak for itself...

    http://home.comcast.net/~budlopez/pictures/dyno.jpg

    Something just doesn't seem right. With the other cars I've run with (esp. against LS1s), this just doesn't seem right to me. After talking with Kev, could it be the car wasn't centered properly on the rollers? Also, they told me I'm running too lean. Is that the case? Thanks guys.

    ***EDIT***

    Almost forgot, I was running Datamaster and saved the scan. I did get a little bit of knock retard, but nothing over ~1 deg. and that was near the top of the band. Would this point to bad plugs and wires? I've got the .uni file if anyone wants to look at it.
    Steve
    79 FSJ - most expensive AMC Jeep ever Mods
    87 GN - its just a 6... Mods
    93 Z28 - slightly tweaked Mods
    http://home.comcast.net/~budlopez

  • #2
    Originally posted by Steve93Z
    Well, I'll let the sheet speak for itself...

    http://home.comcast.net/~budlopez/pictures/dyno.jpg

    Something just doesn't seem right. With the other cars I've run with (esp. against LS1s), this just doesn't seem right to me. After talking with Kev, could it be the car wasn't centered properly on the rollers? Also, they told me I'm running too lean. Is that the case? Thanks guys.

    ***EDIT***

    Almost forgot, I was running Datamaster and saved the scan. I did get a little bit of knock retard, but nothing over ~1 deg. and that was near the top of the band. Would this point to bad plugs and wires? I've got the .uni file if anyone wants to look at it.

    your mods arent all that power inducing... i think you are around what you should be at

    Comment


    • #3
      I don't think that's where he should be. That equates to only 307 FWHP using the 15% drivetrain loss figure. And near 14 AFR seems dangerously lean. I started another thread because I'm having similar problems, but have a previous dyno to prove something is going on here.
      94 Black T/A GT, Advanced Induction 355, 3200 stall, built 4L60E, Moser 9", Baer Brakes, Shooting for 11s...

      Comment


      • #4
        is this that "dyojet" portable dyno thing? if so..those things are so off its not funny.....?

        The Goldens: Reno and Rocky

        2008 C6, M6, LS3, Corsa Extreme C/B, (it flys) & 2008 Yukon loaded (Titanic), 03 Ford Focus..everydaydriver.

        Wolfdog Rescue Resources, Inc.:http://www.wrr-inc.org
        Home Page: http://www.renokeo.com
        sold: 97 Firehawk, 97 Comp T/A, 2005 GTO, 2008 Solstice GXP turbo.

        Comment


        • #5
          I dunno..... 260HP and 300 TQ at the wheels is reasonable. What coolant temp, ambient air temps and elevation were you testing at? I've seen stock cars dyno as little as 235 hp at the wheels, so 25 hp with your mods seems about in the right ballpark. deleting the cat might give you 5 more, a better Y pipe maybe another 5. Headers would be a big help too.

          Comment


          • #6
            I made 258hp/309tq with my 94 Formula A4 with 2.73's - had a K&N and a catback. Just for comparison..
            99 SS, MTI Lid, 3.90 gears, Hurst shifter, DMH 3" e-cutout

            Comment


            • #7
              that car is barely modified. what did you expect?
              97 Chevy 'Raro Z28 M6- Ported & Polished LT1 heads,beehives,1.6/1.94 valves, 226/231 custom cam,K&N FIPK, 94-95 BBK shorty's,ORY,Magnaflow Catback,no cats,BMR LCA Relocation Brackets,Lower Control Arms,Adjustable Panhard Bar,Eibach Pro Kit,SPEC Stage 1,Walbro 255 Fuel Pump,30LB Injectors,Pro 5.0,Short stick,MSD 8.5's,NGK TR55's,LT4KM

              01 Honda CBR600 F4i-Two bro's,Corbins,SS brake lines

              Comment


              • #8
                Coolant temp was at ~180 deg., outside temp was around 70 deg. with the barometer at 30 in. Hg. It was pretty close to perfect SAE temp.

                And yes, it was one of the portable dynos. I remember you saying they are off Ken. And there's rumor that theirs is off as well. I'll give Alvin a call and see what he says about the A/F ratio.
                Steve
                79 FSJ - most expensive AMC Jeep ever Mods
                87 GN - its just a 6... Mods
                93 Z28 - slightly tweaked Mods
                http://home.comcast.net/~budlopez

                Comment


                • #9
                  The temperature was 81.3 degrees, humidity 35.7, baro pressure 30.1 according to the video.

                  I don't think their dyno is far off if any at all. The stock auto LS1s were at 290-300 RWHP, right where they should be. And the stock new GTs are at 260, just as many other dynojets read. I still think we need to take a closer look at the tune, and the reason why we say 1 degree of knock retard above 4400 RPM.
                  94 Black T/A GT, Advanced Induction 355, 3200 stall, built 4L60E, Moser 9", Baer Brakes, Shooting for 11s...

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    If you convert the Datamaster file to .csv format, I'll take a look at it.
                    Fred

                    381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Here is his csv. He scanned it in my laptop and I'm having trouble emailing it to him. http://s94938520.onlinehome.us/dyno_Z.csv
                      94 Black T/A GT, Advanced Induction 355, 3200 stall, built 4L60E, Moser 9", Baer Brakes, Shooting for 11s...

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        There are basically 2 benchmarks by which dyno operators will correct your actual HP numbers. There is what they call the SAE Standard Correction which uses the following weather data as it’s benchmark: 60° F, 29.92 InHg, and 0% relative humidity. Then there is what they call the SAE J1349 Revision JUN90 which uses the following weather data as it’s benchmark: 77°F, 29.235 InHg, and 0% relative humidity.

                        Normally tuners will use the standard correction which will obviously generate higher corrected numbers, but sometimes they will use the June 1990 Revision guidelines by which to correct. This will cause you numbers to be about 4% lower than the "SAE Standard" correction.

                        It may be beneficial to find out which method they used. But other than that, like I said, those numbers ain't too bad at all given your mods and given the fact that the 93's were 275 HP stock.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          How did they measure the AFR? If they stuck it in the tailpipe of a car with a cat, they should know better - it won't be accurate, no way. It needs to be before the cat in a welded in bung for an accurate reading. No way a LT1 car should be reading 14.xx AFR at WOT.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            I contacted the dyno shop and this was their respose to Kevin's (fastTA) question:

                            "SAE J1349 Revision JUN90 or SAE is what dynojet uses in thier formula I beleive.

                            check out this website.

                            http://wahiduddin.net/calc/calc_cf.htm"

                            It seems like he uses the "lower number" correction factor, but then again, it seems that he thinks all dynojets use this
                            94 Black T/A GT, Advanced Induction 355, 3200 stall, built 4L60E, Moser 9", Baer Brakes, Shooting for 11s...

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Kevin - Blown 95 TA
                              How did they measure the AFR? If they stuck it in the tailpipe of a car with a cat, they should know better - it won't be accurate, no way. It needs to be before the cat in a welded in bung for an accurate reading. No way a LT1 car should be reading 14.xx AFR at WOT.
                              Ya know Kevin, that's a good question. The first shop we went to when Craig got his dyno done did the tailpipe sensor, but I have no idea how they did it at this shop. Might be worth finding out.

                              Also, Fred, if you have problems with that CSV file, I did finally manage to get it right on my computer. Just let me know if you need it and I can e-mail it to you.
                              Steve
                              79 FSJ - most expensive AMC Jeep ever Mods
                              87 GN - its just a 6... Mods
                              93 Z28 - slightly tweaked Mods
                              http://home.comcast.net/~budlopez

                              Comment

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