Dang it man! I told you to keep my peculiar (I call them quirky) characteristics to yourself! Now, I'll have to make sure no more are divulged.
Yea, it was the one side leaking. The passenger's side is dead quiet, and the BLMs are below 128. There is no 1 cell where it's above. Also, the Felpro showed no signs of leaking, besides the cylinder-cylinder leak. So I'm 99.9999% sure it's good.
Yeah yeah yeah, you try and hide them yet keep blurting them out lol
Interesting, I guess we'll see what happens when you get the header back on. Gimme a buzz when you do or if you need a hand...I wanna be there
LOL, dang it, Steve gave away my true personality. At least he didn't mention the pink tights. Oops LOL
No, no, no, what kind of manly man works on his black T/A and acts like that
I mean I know you guys live really close to San Francisco and all.......but I didn't know you and Steve had matching pink tights? Is that for pimping the pink Mary Kay Cadillac?
j/k - Let me know how that header flange turns out.
Kev, I did have a response, but dang it, I gotta remember the fact this is a family board, huh? lol
The shop just called. They're done...finally! He said that the #1 and #3/#5 flanges were in close range range, but the #7 was so far down, it took them forever to take #1,#3/#5 down to match. Those flanges are somewhat thinner now because of this. But they said they're within a few thousands. Man, I can't wait to pick 'em up and see 'em.
Thanks, SLP for the beautiful work. I picked up headers for nearly a grand to get rid of my original exhaust leak, and they make it worse for all that money. And not to mention, I never got a CARB exemption sticker. I even requested for one, which they claimed they would ship out. That was 4 months ago
94 Black T/A GT, Advanced Induction 355, 3200 stall, built 4L60E, Moser 9", Baer Brakes, Shooting for 11s...
Kev, I did have a response, but dang it, I gotta remember the fact this is a family board, huh? lol
The shop just called. They're done...finally! He said that the #1 and #3/#5 flanges were in close range range, but the #7 was so far down, it took them forever to take #1,#3/#5 down to match. Those flanges are somewhat thinner now because of this. But they said they're within a few thousands. Man, I can't wait to pick 'em up and see 'em.
Thanks, SLP for the beautiful work. I picked up headers for nearly a grand to get rid of my original exhaust leak, and they make it worse for all that money. And not to mention, I never got a CARB exemption sticker. I even requested for one, which they claimed they would ship out. That was 4 months ago
Good to hear. Within a few thou' they should bolt down nice and flat.
You know what, I just had the same problem on my Tahoe. The bank 1 manifold was leaking pretty bad at 5 and 7. The BLM's on that side were super high and it had started to run like sh!t because it was super fat on that side. Had the manifold machined, put on new Felpro's and no more exhaust leak and runs like a champ.
I mean I know you guys live really close to San Francisco and all.......but I didn't know you and Steve had matching pink tights? Is that for pimping the pink Mary Kay Cadillac?
j/k - Let me know how that header flange turns out.
Just wait till you get here Kev, I'll introduce you to Joey Bag-o-Doughnuts and Muscles Marinera...they'll make ya feel right at home lol
I do have a concern. They had to cut the flanges down so much, there are actually cuts. http://s94938520.onlinehome.us/pictures/flange_cuts.jpg
I can literally see through the other side. I thought this will give me a big problem, but with the help of Steve, I got everything installed...and it doesn't sound like there's a leak there. There is a leak at the y-pipe, which I intend to fix tomorrow...but I'm hoping and praying there isn't a leak at those spots.
94 Black T/A GT, Advanced Induction 355, 3200 stall, built 4L60E, Moser 9", Baer Brakes, Shooting for 11s...
I do have a concern. They had to cut the flanges down so much, there are actually cuts. http://s94938520.onlinehome.us/pictures/flange_cuts.jpg
I can literally see through the other side. I thought this will give me a big problem, but with the help of Steve, I got everything installed...and it doesn't sound like there's a leak there. There is a leak at the y-pipe, which I intend to fix tomorrow...but I'm hoping and praying there isn't a leak at those spots.
It looks like they did take quite a bit of material off, but those don't appear to be "cuts" from a mill. It looks like those are just the cavities of a not so good weld. IF SLP makes their headers like most, the primaries and flanges are manufactured as two separate pieces and the primaries are then welded to the flanges. It should still seal though.
I used to have pretty good faith in SLP. It's been fading away ever so slightly lately. I am seeing more and more stuff like this from them and I've heard alot of negative comments regarding their customer service.
Tell Steve to send his fantasy Italian mafioso family members to pay a little visit to SLP.
I used to have pretty good faith in SLP. It's been fading away ever so slightly lately. I am seeing more and more stuff like this from them and I've heard alot of negative comments regarding their customer service.
Tell Steve to send his fantasy Italian mafioso family members to pay a little visit to SLP.
Ya know, after this, I'm questioning whether I wanna use SLP headers on the Z, and I'm a pretty big proponent of SLP as well. I mean, for the cost of the headers, there should be some pretty dang good customer support behind them. This is unacceptable to say the least.
I subscribe to the theory that bolt on parts don't, easy assembly means and engineering degree is required and that one size fits all is a downright lie.
That being said, I would still expect SLP's quality control to be higher.
I tried and tried today, but just can't get rid of the ticking. Yesterday, I was almost certain it was coming from the y-pipe, but I tightened it as much as I could, and there's no unordinary sounds coming from there. The ticking is only "hearable" in the driver's seat, with the door closed. Once it warms up, the ticking seems to stop at idle. However, under any load, the ticking starts back up...and the higher the load, the louder/more frequent the ticking. Maybe...once again, I'll remove the header and check the gasket to see where it's leaking from. If no obvious leaks, then I guess it's time to start looking at the y-pipe again. This is getting really tiring
94 Black T/A GT, Advanced Induction 355, 3200 stall, built 4L60E, Moser 9", Baer Brakes, Shooting for 11s...
I tried and tried today, but just can't get rid of the ticking. Yesterday, I was almost certain it was coming from the y-pipe, but I tightened it as much as I could, and there's no unordinary sounds coming from there. The ticking is only "hearable" in the driver's seat, with the door closed. Once it warms up, the ticking seems to stop at idle. However, under any load, the ticking starts back up...and the higher the load, the louder/more frequent the ticking. Maybe...once again, I'll remove the header and check the gasket to see where it's leaking from. If no obvious leaks, then I guess it's time to start looking at the y-pipe again. This is getting really tiring
Are you sure it's not an air fitting or the EGR feed pipe ticking? After we installed the Magnaflow true duals on my truck, I drove myself crazy after I replaced both pipe to flange gasket's. We kept hearing a ticking noise on the driver's side.
It ended up being the EGR feed pipe. Sealed it and bingo, no more ticking and the crosscounts increased back to normal and my LTFT's on that side went back to normal.
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