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Need Some Help Please CPU/AFR Problem

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  • Need Some Help Please CPU/AFR Problem

    Alright...
    I just recently added some bolt ons and now I am experiencing some problems. First I guess I need to give you a list of bolt ons so here it is:
    BBK Headers, BBK 58mm Throttle Body, BBK Power Pullies, SLP Cold Air Intake, Ported and Polished Intake Manifold, MSD 8.5mm Plug Wires, and I also had new plugs put in but not sure what kind.

    Now the problem...

    I only drive the car 10 miles every 2 weeks. So, when I start it up it will run great at idle. I can drive it 2 miles down the road and it will still run great at all RPM ranges. When my engine starts to warm up it is steadily warms up until it almost overheats and then my fans kick in. This is due to a fan problem I had earlier and both of my fans are wired together so they kick on just before it overheats. So once the fans kick on it will cool off very quickly. The fans kick off again and it begins to overheat again. This time it starts to bog down like it is running way too lean and my RPMs will bounce around while idleing. At this point I shut the car off and I have to wait for it to cool down and then I can start it up again and it will run fine.

    I'm guessing it has something to due with not getting enough fuel when it is hot...but I'm not the mechanic and that is why I come to you all. Any solutions...?

    Thanks again everyone!

    Edit: Don't forget it's a 93 so it has speed controlled A/F Ratio
    1993 Camaro Z28 M6: BBK Headers, BBK 58mm Throttle Body, BBK Power Pullies, SLP Cold Air Intake, SLP Loudmouth Exhaust, Centerforce Dual-Friction Clutch, Ported and Polished Intake Manifold, B&M Supercooler Aluminum Radiator, SLP 160° Thermostat, MSD 8.5mm Plug Wires, SLP 36lb/hr Fuel Injectors, SLP Fuel Pump, Suspension Techniques Lowering Springs:
    13.3 @ 104mph 335 HP/ 350 RWTQ

  • #2
    I'm not too sure about your bogging problem, but I do know that the stock fan settings are for 226 degrees I believe. If that's not the exact temp, then it is something very close to that. The fans will basically kick on right as your water temp starts to near the red.
    black 95 t/a, a4, beefed up tranny w/ higher stall converter, transgo shift kit, trans temp gauge, trans cooler, richmond 3.73's, loudmouth, hypertech programmer, 160 thermo, descreened maf, TB bypass and airfoil, trick flow intake elbow, underdrive pulleys, moroso cai, edelbrock panhard rod, bmr stb, slp sfc's, fiberglass firehawk hood, hawk pads, taylor wires, ngk plugs, royal purple fluids,...and hopefully more to come

    Comment


    • #3
      Can a hot motor prevent enough fuel from getting to the motor?
      1993 Camaro Z28 M6: BBK Headers, BBK 58mm Throttle Body, BBK Power Pullies, SLP Cold Air Intake, SLP Loudmouth Exhaust, Centerforce Dual-Friction Clutch, Ported and Polished Intake Manifold, B&M Supercooler Aluminum Radiator, SLP 160° Thermostat, MSD 8.5mm Plug Wires, SLP 36lb/hr Fuel Injectors, SLP Fuel Pump, Suspension Techniques Lowering Springs:
      13.3 @ 104mph 335 HP/ 350 RWTQ

      Comment


      • #4
        Not sure, but I think I remember reading on here somewhere that high engine temps will cause something to retard the timing. (??) Maybe an aftermarket fan switch to kick the fans on sooner will help. I'm far from an expert tho, so take everything I say with a grain of salt (and if someone could explain that phrase to me... makes no sense... )

        Found where I read that... http://f-body.com/forum/showthread.php?t=13722

        *Pam*

        2002 Firebird 3.8 A/T - all stock
        1998 Ford Contour SVT #1578 of 6535

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        • #5
          I dont think that my fans are working right now , so I need to find a way to fix that.
          96 Camaro Z28, T-tops, 6 Speed, Slp CIA, Flowmaster cat-back, 3:42 gears

          Comment


          • #6
            Thanks for the info 96Camaro, but I don't think that has anything to do with this thread...
            1993 Camaro Z28 M6: BBK Headers, BBK 58mm Throttle Body, BBK Power Pullies, SLP Cold Air Intake, SLP Loudmouth Exhaust, Centerforce Dual-Friction Clutch, Ported and Polished Intake Manifold, B&M Supercooler Aluminum Radiator, SLP 160° Thermostat, MSD 8.5mm Plug Wires, SLP 36lb/hr Fuel Injectors, SLP Fuel Pump, Suspension Techniques Lowering Springs:
            13.3 @ 104mph 335 HP/ 350 RWTQ

            Comment


            • #7
              Ok, first off, get your PCM tuned. While a dyno-tune would be best, even a mail-order tune will be better than nothing. You can have the fans tuned to turn on at 180 like I have (I've got a 93 as well). You'll pay extra since the 93 uses a replaceable chip vs. a flashable one. Also, have you done the throttle body coolant bypass? How many miles do you have on your car?

              As for your post 96Camaro, don't hijack someone's thread. Start your own and state your problem.
              Steve
              79 FSJ - most expensive AMC Jeep ever Mods
              87 GN - its just a 6... Mods
              93 Z28 - slightly tweaked Mods
              http://home.comcast.net/~budlopez

              Comment


              • #8
                Thanks Steve, I'm new to the forums so I hadn't ever heard of the throttle body bypass, but now i've read up on it and it seems like it may really help me. Could the bigger throttle body be getting hotter than a stock one or should it just help out about the same. I figure it's getting a lot more air now, but i assume the problem is it's getting a lot more hot air. Let me know if i'm wrong about this. Also, is there anything I could do to get any kind of cool liquid/coolant through the throttle body or would it be pointless for my $?
                1993 Camaro Z28 M6: BBK Headers, BBK 58mm Throttle Body, BBK Power Pullies, SLP Cold Air Intake, SLP Loudmouth Exhaust, Centerforce Dual-Friction Clutch, Ported and Polished Intake Manifold, B&M Supercooler Aluminum Radiator, SLP 160° Thermostat, MSD 8.5mm Plug Wires, SLP 36lb/hr Fuel Injectors, SLP Fuel Pump, Suspension Techniques Lowering Springs:
                13.3 @ 104mph 335 HP/ 350 RWTQ

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by 1993 Sleeper Z
                  Thanks Steve, I'm new to the forums so I hadn't ever heard of the throttle body bypass, but now i've read up on it and it seems like it may really help me. Could the bigger throttle body be getting hotter than a stock one or should it just help out about the same. I figure it's getting a lot more air now, but i assume the problem is it's getting a lot more hot air. Let me know if i'm wrong about this. Also, is there anything I could do to get any kind of cool liquid/coolant through the throttle body or would it be pointless for my $?
                  Your bigger TB at this point may be overkill. A stock one, or even a ported stock TB, with an airfoil would probably work better than your current TB.

                  As for putting a cool liquid through your TB...it's just honestly not worth it. It would also be a lot of hard work that would have a bunch of custom fab, and would cost a good amount of green. If you ever did manage to set it up, the gains in the end wouldn't even be worth it.

                  Just by disconnecting the coolant lines alone is what you see better gains from...that's more than adequate.
                  black 95 t/a, a4, beefed up tranny w/ higher stall converter, transgo shift kit, trans temp gauge, trans cooler, richmond 3.73's, loudmouth, hypertech programmer, 160 thermo, descreened maf, TB bypass and airfoil, trick flow intake elbow, underdrive pulleys, moroso cai, edelbrock panhard rod, bmr stb, slp sfc's, fiberglass firehawk hood, hawk pads, taylor wires, ngk plugs, royal purple fluids,...and hopefully more to come

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by 95TransAm
                    Your bigger TB at this point may be overkill. A stock one, or even a ported stock TB, with an airfoil would probably work better than your current TB.

                    As for putting a cool liquid through your TB...it's just honestly not worth it. It would also be a lot of hard work that would have a bunch of custom fab, and would cost a good amount of green. If you ever did manage to set it up, the gains in the end wouldn't even be worth it.

                    Just by disconnecting the coolant lines alone is what you see better gains from...that's more than adequate.
                    Exactly what he said. The coolant bypass will make a noticeable difference. And, as I said, definitely get a new chip for your car to accommodate for the mods. I've got one from Alvin at PCMForLess.com and am pretty pleased. Very good customer service and will retune your car for free if he's off (e.g. take it to the dyno and its too lean, like with me). Hope this helps.
                    Steve
                    79 FSJ - most expensive AMC Jeep ever Mods
                    87 GN - its just a 6... Mods
                    93 Z28 - slightly tweaked Mods
                    http://home.comcast.net/~budlopez

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      160-180* tstat and a low temp fan switch. just be prepared to be without hot hot air in the winter. 160 blows luke warm. 180 is the best for a combo car
                      2009 Honda Civic EX- the daily beater

                      old toys - 1983 trans am, 1988 trans am, 1986 IROC-Z, 2002 Ram Off-Road, 1984 K10, 1988 Mustang GT, 2006 Silverado 2500HD

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                      • #12
                        Thanks a lot guys, you've really helped me through this one, now all I need to do is get home to my baby and get her fixed up. As for the winter...that's not a problem cause the car is garaged til next spring already cause I'm at school and it's not worth paying insurance when I only drive it 20 miles every 4 weeks. That way I don't break anything, too. I will post another forum if I have any new problems in a couple of weeks.
                        1993 Camaro Z28 M6: BBK Headers, BBK 58mm Throttle Body, BBK Power Pullies, SLP Cold Air Intake, SLP Loudmouth Exhaust, Centerforce Dual-Friction Clutch, Ported and Polished Intake Manifold, B&M Supercooler Aluminum Radiator, SLP 160° Thermostat, MSD 8.5mm Plug Wires, SLP 36lb/hr Fuel Injectors, SLP Fuel Pump, Suspension Techniques Lowering Springs:
                        13.3 @ 104mph 335 HP/ 350 RWTQ

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