Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Valve Train ?

Collapse
X
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Valve Train ?

    Do you have to take off the intake manifold to do the rockers, springs, and pushrods? And do you guys have any tips for doing these.
    96 Camaro Z28, T-tops, 6 Speed, Slp CIA, Flowmaster cat-back, 3:42 gears

  • #2
    Originally posted by 96Camaro
    Do you have to take off the intake manifold to do the rockers, springs, and pushrods? And do you guys have any tips for doing these.
    Don't need to pull the intake manifold to just R&R the pushrods, but if you are going to replace the rockers and springs you really should consider replacing the lifters as so that they can develop a consistently 'new" wear pattern on the lifter cup and bottom of the pushrod. In that case you would need to pull the IM.

    To do the springs, you will either need to pull the heads or apply compressed air to each cylinder by means of a spark plug hole adapter to hold the valves in place. This will be a PITA on a LT1 F-Body. I personally think you would be better to just do it the old fashioned way and pull the heads.

    Comment


    • #3
      Regarding the springs:
      You can just turn the crank to position each piston at TDC. Your valves will not fall in...unless you forgot to rotate the crank when moving on the the next cylinder.
      94 Black T/A GT, Advanced Induction 355, 3200 stall, built 4L60E, Moser 9", Baer Brakes, Shooting for 11s...

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by Craig 94 TA GT
        Regarding the springs:
        You can just turn the crank to position each piston at TDC. Your valves will not fall in...unless you forgot to rotate the crank when moving on the the next cylinder.
        Yup. That's what I done.

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by Craig 94 TA GT
          ...unless you forgot to rotate the crank when moving on the the next cylinder.
          That's why I didn't suggest that method. Finding TDC per cylinder and this method can be a little risky for someone doing springs for the first time. But, it can be done. Getting the locks in while the spring is compressed and the valve down a bit held by the piston can be tricky for someone trying this for the first time. Pulling the heads also gives you a chance to clean the back of the valve and the valve seat, and/or install new valve guides.

          Comment


          • #6
            yea but to pull the heads, dont you still have to take off the intake manifold?
            96 Camaro Z28, T-tops, 6 Speed, Slp CIA, Flowmaster cat-back, 3:42 gears

            Comment


            • #7
              It was my first time when I did it. It was easy for me (maybe because I did so much research ) until the last cylinder. I forgot to rotate the hub, and let go of the valve. Luckily, it stuck to the old seal. When I realized what I had done, I held on to the stem, grabbed vice grips with my foot, stretching as far as I could. I got them, clamped it to the valve stem, and moved the crank. The exhaust valve, however, didn't fall in for some reason. I still had 1/4" or more resting on the piston.
              But I don't see the difference in forgetting to put the air compressor in the plug hole and forgetting to move the piston to TDC for each piston. Either way, say goodbye to the valve lol.
              94 Black T/A GT, Advanced Induction 355, 3200 stall, built 4L60E, Moser 9", Baer Brakes, Shooting for 11s...

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by 96Camaro
                yea but to pull the heads, dont you still have to take off the intake manifold?
                Unless your magic. Either way you do it just remain very conscience of which cylinder you are on.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by Craig 94 TA GT
                  It was my first time when I did it. It was easy for me (maybe because I did so much research ) until the last cylinder. I forgot to rotate the hub, and let go of the valve. Luckily, it stuck to the old seal. When I realized what I had done, I held on to the stem, grabbed vice grips with my foot, stretching as far as I could. I got them, clamped it to the valve stem, and moved the crank. The exhaust valve, however, didn't fall in for some reason. I still had 1/4" or more resting on the piston.
                  But I don't see the difference in forgetting to put the air compressor in the plug hole and forgetting to move the piston to TDC for each piston. Either way, say goodbye to the valve lol.

                  That kinda prooves FastTA's point. Pulling the heads is not a bad idea at all. If you are going to be replacing some of the top end do it all. It'll last so much longer and all wear together. How many miles do you have on your car? Your rockers wear with your lifters and pushrods. My recomendation is if your going to replace your top end do it all at once.
                  1994 Firebird Formula, M6, Fan switch, 160 thermostat, Pacesetter LT headers, Morosso CAI, TB bypass, True duals.

                  Comment

                  Working...
                  X