Do you have to take off the intake manifold to do the rockers, springs, and pushrods? And do you guys have any tips for doing these.
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fastTa
Originally posted by 96CamaroDo you have to take off the intake manifold to do the rockers, springs, and pushrods? And do you guys have any tips for doing these.
To do the springs, you will either need to pull the heads or apply compressed air to each cylinder by means of a spark plug hole adapter to hold the valves in place. This will be a PITA on a LT1 F-Body. I personally think you would be better to just do it the old fashioned way and pull the heads.
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Regarding the springs:
You can just turn the crank to position each piston at TDC. Your valves will not fall in...unless you forgot to rotate the crank when moving on the the next cylinder.94 Black T/A GT, Advanced Induction 355, 3200 stall, built 4L60E, Moser 9", Baer Brakes, Shooting for 11s...
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fastTa
Originally posted by Craig 94 TA GT...unless you forgot to rotate the crank when moving on the the next cylinder.Finding TDC per cylinder and this method can be a little risky for someone doing springs for the first time. But, it can be done. Getting the locks in while the spring is compressed and the valve down a bit held by the piston can be tricky for someone trying this for the first time. Pulling the heads also gives you a chance to clean the back of the valve and the valve seat, and/or install new valve guides.
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It was my first time when I did it. It was easy for me (maybe because I did so much research) until the last cylinder. I forgot to rotate the hub, and let go of the valve. Luckily, it stuck to the old seal. When I realized what I had done, I held on to the stem, grabbed vice grips with my foot, stretching as far as I could. I got them, clamped it to the valve stem, and moved the crank. The exhaust valve, however, didn't fall in for some reason. I still had 1/4" or more resting on the piston.
But I don't see the difference in forgetting to put the air compressor in the plug hole and forgetting to move the piston to TDC for each piston. Either way, say goodbye to the valve lol.94 Black T/A GT, Advanced Induction 355, 3200 stall, built 4L60E, Moser 9", Baer Brakes, Shooting for 11s...
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fastTa
Originally posted by 96Camaroyea but to pull the heads, dont you still have to take off the intake manifold?
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Originally posted by Craig 94 TA GTIt was my first time when I did it. It was easy for me (maybe because I did so much research) until the last cylinder. I forgot to rotate the hub, and let go of the valve. Luckily, it stuck to the old seal. When I realized what I had done, I held on to the stem, grabbed vice grips with my foot, stretching as far as I could. I got them, clamped it to the valve stem, and moved the crank. The exhaust valve, however, didn't fall in for some reason. I still had 1/4" or more resting on the piston.
But I don't see the difference in forgetting to put the air compressor in the plug hole and forgetting to move the piston to TDC for each piston. Either way, say goodbye to the valve lol.
That kinda prooves FastTA's point. Pulling the heads is not a bad idea at all. If you are going to be replacing some of the top end do it all. It'll last so much longer and all wear together. How many miles do you have on your car? Your rockers wear with your lifters and pushrods. My recomendation is if your going to replace your top end do it all at once.1994 Firebird Formula, M6, Fan switch, 160 thermostat, Pacesetter LT headers, Morosso CAI, TB bypass, True duals.
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