Well is there a little bit of slack in my clutch pedal right now, and I cant figure out a way to bleed it. Need help!
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96 Camaro Z28, T-tops, 6 Speed, Slp CIA, Flowmaster cat-back, 3:42 gears -
There isn't any provision to bleeding a 93-97 clutch.2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning
1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD
A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen" -
A touch of slack is perfectly normal.Originally posted by 96Camaro1995 Z28 Convertible, 350ci LT1 73K miles M6.
Dyno results: 301.5 RWHP 326.7 RWTQ
Performance Mods 4.10 gears, AS&M CAI, MADZ28 tune, Borla catback, RK Sport mid-length headers, LT4 valve springs, CC pro mag 1.6 RR's, LT4 KM, MSD OVC wires, TB bypass, 160 t-stat, SLP clutch plate w/Kevlar dual friction disk, 52MM TB, TB air foil, 1LE aluminum driveshaft, ASP UD pulley, LS1 brakes w/ Hawk HPS pads, LCA's and PHB.
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Its more then a touch, thats what worries me. And I dont know how to fix it.96 Camaro Z28, T-tops, 6 Speed, Slp CIA, Flowmaster cat-back, 3:42 gearsComment
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4th Gen clutches can certainly be bled. I've done it many times. I hate typing so here is a good description from Shoebox so give him the credit for this one:
Clean clutch master cylinder cap area so no dirt can enter the system.
Remove the reservoir cap and diaphragm.
If you are leaving the master cylinder in the car, use a wire or something hung from the LH hood strut bracket down toward the slave cylinder.
Remove the slave cylinder and use the wire you hung to support it.
Go back up top and get hold of the slave cylinder. Press the pushrod in ~20mm (0.787in) and hold it. Keep slave cylinder lower than the master cylinder.
Install diaphragm and reservior cap while holding the pushrod in.
Release pushrod and hold slave cylinder vertically with the pushrod end facing down.
Press pushrod in using short 10mm (0.390in) strokes.
Check the master cylinder for air bubbles and continue until there are
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Reconnect slave and check reservoir for proper fluid level.Comment
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The above procedure is normally used when installing eiter a new slave or master. You can try this but in general the LT1 clutch hydraulics should pump up when pumping the pedal.
It sounds to me you have either a bad master or slave.
Slaves go for $40 and masters about $50 at parts houses, these will be the exact same as GM.
Usually its the slaves that goes bad first and it is by far the easiest to install, the master is a MAJOR PITS, hope you have a good back, lots of patience and beer cause getting the master out sucks.
Also dont bother looking for a bleeder screw, der aint 1, thanks GM.1995 Z28 Convertible, 350ci LT1 73K miles M6.
Dyno results: 301.5 RWHP 326.7 RWTQ
Performance Mods 4.10 gears, AS&M CAI, MADZ28 tune, Borla catback, RK Sport mid-length headers, LT4 valve springs, CC pro mag 1.6 RR's, LT4 KM, MSD OVC wires, TB bypass, 160 t-stat, SLP clutch plate w/Kevlar dual friction disk, 52MM TB, TB air foil, 1LE aluminum driveshaft, ASP UD pulley, LS1 brakes w/ Hawk HPS pads, LCA's and PHB.
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Where in the world is the master at then.....My stupid repair manuel says its just the thing that holds the fluid (probly need a new repair manuel).96 Camaro Z28, T-tops, 6 Speed, Slp CIA, Flowmaster cat-back, 3:42 gearsComment
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This is the assembly. It comes as 1 piece. The manual says you can not replace a piece of it. It says it is only replaced as an assembly. The connectors are formed on. You can't use a regular clamp on them. They will blow off under the high pressure.
This is the master.
This is the slave cylinder.
This is the reservoir.
2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning
1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD
A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"Comment
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Its under the Brake booster. You have to disconnect a clip on the clutch pedal under the dash, remove two nuts under the dash on the firewall and push a u-bolt out. Also dettach the fluid resovoir. Then from under the car wiggle and jiggle the master out of the firewall and remove the master and the slave as a whole, no need to pop the fluid lines loose. The hard part is by far getting the master back in the firewall and popping in the u-bolt. Get a helper to get the u-bolt in.Originally posted by 96Camaro1995 Z28 Convertible, 350ci LT1 73K miles M6.
Dyno results: 301.5 RWHP 326.7 RWTQ
Performance Mods 4.10 gears, AS&M CAI, MADZ28 tune, Borla catback, RK Sport mid-length headers, LT4 valve springs, CC pro mag 1.6 RR's, LT4 KM, MSD OVC wires, TB bypass, 160 t-stat, SLP clutch plate w/Kevlar dual friction disk, 52MM TB, TB air foil, 1LE aluminum driveshaft, ASP UD pulley, LS1 brakes w/ Hawk HPS pads, LCA's and PHB.
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How much does that whole unit cost?96 Camaro Z28, T-tops, 6 Speed, Slp CIA, Flowmaster cat-back, 3:42 gearsComment
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