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Car Struggles to Turn On.....

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  • #16
    I'm pretty sure you will have to replace what's in the tank. The holley one is probably a racer style, one that mounts outside of the tank. I don't know how you would convert your tank so that you could have an external pump, but you've got to pull it anyway so you might as well go the easier route and just replace it. You can pick up Walbro's on ebay for $160 brand new.
    "No, officer, that bottle is my onboard Halon system"

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    • #17
      check with the Sy/Ty guy http://www.autoperformanceengineering.com i believe is the link. he has the hookup on walbros

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      • #18
        The Holley is an In tank..

        And costs only like $80 and is capable of up to 490HPHolley In Tank I read somewhere (on the site that JD put I think) that Holley actually puts their name on Walbro pumps, as does BBK and some other after-market brands. Furthermore, the description says "Some modifications required." What do you guys think they mean by that? I emailed JD's guy to see what kind of prices he has on the pumps, and will post them as soon as I get a response. Im dreading the install though, but must the exhaust come down too?
        1996 Arctic White Z28, A4, K&N CAI, TByrne MAF ends, BBK Twin-52mm TB, TB Bypass, SLP 1 3/4" Shorties, Richmond 3.42's, Dynomax Bullet Muffler W/Turn Down, BMR Adj. Panhard, EIBACH Pro-Kit, AFS ZR1 Wheels W/17x11" out back!

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        • #19
          The deal with the intank pump for the LT1 car is it needs to go in the factory plastic housing. I don't know if the Holley pump you are talking about can do that. I also don't know if the wiring is compatable.

          The exhaust most definitely has to come off. There is just no way around it. It's hard enough to do it with the exhaust gone, I can't imaging even attempting it with the exhaust still under there. If you have a lift it's not that bad, but doing it on jackstands is a PITA. Be safe, cause you're gonna have a whole lot of the back half of your car unbolted.
          "No, officer, that bottle is my onboard Halon system"

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          • #20
            could always do it the git er dun way and cut a whole in the floorpan.

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            • #21
              I remember seeing something like that somewhere! Do any of you guys have the link for that procedure? I remember the person that did it had a pretty good page on the procedures. I got an email back from the man and he said that Walbro doesnt make direct replacements for 4th gens. I found a granetalli Motorsports pump from summit, and they claim that theyre pump fits in just like the OEM ones.
              1996 Arctic White Z28, A4, K&N CAI, TByrne MAF ends, BBK Twin-52mm TB, TB Bypass, SLP 1 3/4" Shorties, Richmond 3.42's, Dynomax Bullet Muffler W/Turn Down, BMR Adj. Panhard, EIBACH Pro-Kit, AFS ZR1 Wheels W/17x11" out back!

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              • #22
                Originally posted by AmericanZ28
                I remember seeing something like that somewhere! Do any of you guys have the link for that procedure? I remember the person that did it had a pretty good page on the procedures.
                Don't do it man! Seriously, do it right- You'll appreciate it much more later. Bottom line- Cutting a hole in you floor pan is a hackjob. Take the extra few hours and do it right.

                -G

                Best ET: 13.41 @ 103.80 MPH (@600 FT) with these Mods: SLP 2L/2R Exhaust, K&N FIPK, LT4 KM, 4.10 GM Superior gears, BMR LCAs & relocation brackets, Energy Suspension Poly Tranny Mount, 160 degree thermostat, HPP3 ( mostly for speedo & fan recalibration), MSD 6AL Ignition & MSD Blaster Coil and all the free mods.
                _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _
                Trans Am- The Muscle Car Lives

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                • #23
                  if I were to cut a hole in the floorpan, I would want to weld a boxed in brace underneath and make a lid and rubber gasket for it to seal it up, so that it's an access hatch rather than a gaping hole in my floorpan.

                  just my take on things. that of course would require dropping the tank, but it would only require dropping it once. all future modifications etc could be accessed through the hatch.

                  (EDIT: I have done that in the past to access differentials etc........ it works well, and the interior of the car remains sealed when you are finished)

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                  • #24
                    Sounds like a good idea....

                    But like rag top said, its kind of a hackjob, and I dont want to risk creating more damage than necessary. I decided on getting the Granatelli pump, its pretty inexpensive, and can handle more power than I plan to put down.
                    1996 Arctic White Z28, A4, K&N CAI, TByrne MAF ends, BBK Twin-52mm TB, TB Bypass, SLP 1 3/4" Shorties, Richmond 3.42's, Dynomax Bullet Muffler W/Turn Down, BMR Adj. Panhard, EIBACH Pro-Kit, AFS ZR1 Wheels W/17x11" out back!

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