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  • #1

    More stuff for car

    Because the old torque arm mount ripped off the casing I went ahead and bought BMR's new torque arm relocation bracket and also a new pinion seal. That torque arm was a pain to put on because I broke the mounting stud on the trans mount which was easy to replace, stripped to of the new torque arm mount bolts out, and it was Freeeezing. I tried to warm up the garage with a portbale heater but it barley made a difference. Pushing that Bushing onto the torque arm was another story.

    Anyways I finished it up this morning before handing in my English portfolio and the car runs strong. We still have to fix that darn exhaust leak and the rattle that started after we installed the headers.

    Also, I think the 275's are to big in the front because when i pull out in reverse with the tires turned sharply it feels like it will hop in the front, like once or twice??
    1996 Z-28 6 speed, Airfoil, K&N FIPK, Flowmaster muffler, Motive 3.73 gears, BBK shorty headers, cut-out, LS1 Driveshaft, no power options (Rare), Prothane tranny mount, MSD 8.5mm wires, Accel U-Groove Plugs, Chrome hurst short throw, TB Bypass, ES Torque arm mount, BMR subframe connectors (weld-in), Lt4 Knock Module, Descreened MAF, '02 SS wheels, Pioneer HU, MTX & JL amps, 2 12" JBL's, T-Top Conversion!

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  • #2
    Originally posted by blackthunder50
    ....
    Also, I think the 275's are to big in the front because when i pull out in reverse with the tires turned sharply it feels like it will hop in the front, like once or twice??
    What do you mean by "hop"? Does it feel like the tires are dragging, rather than turning?

    There are so many of us running 275's in the front without that kind of a problem, that I doubt its because the tires are too big.
    Fred

    381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

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    • #3
      I'm running 285's in front, no problem.
      Tracy
      2002 C5 M6 Convertible
      1994 Z28 M6 Convertible
      Current Mods:
      SLP Ultra-Z functional ramair, SS Spoiler, STB, SFCs, Headers, Clutch, Bilstein Shocks, and TB Airfoil. 17x9 SS rims with Goodyear tires, 160F T-Stat, MSD Blaster Coil, Taylor wires, Hurst billet shifter, Borla catback with QTP e-cutout, Tuned PCM, 1LE Swaybars, 1LE driveshaft, ES bushings, White gauges, C5 front brakes, !CAGS, Bose/Soundstream audio, CST leather interior, synthetic fluids

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      • #4
        Originally posted by TraceZ
        I'm running 285's in front, no problem.
        Ditto..... on several cars too. No problems.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by Injuneer
          What do you mean by "hop"? Does it feel like the tires are dragging, rather than turning?

          I can only notice it when I turn sharply and going very slow, I hear a thud and it feels like the front shifts. I checked the whole front and every thing looks perfect, no rub marks or anything, the frame rails, shock arm, all that stuff looks perfect. I also had an alignment last year. Theres no problems while driving though.
          1996 Z-28 6 speed, Airfoil, K&N FIPK, Flowmaster muffler, Motive 3.73 gears, BBK shorty headers, cut-out, LS1 Driveshaft, no power options (Rare), Prothane tranny mount, MSD 8.5mm wires, Accel U-Groove Plugs, Chrome hurst short throw, TB Bypass, ES Torque arm mount, BMR subframe connectors (weld-in), Lt4 Knock Module, Descreened MAF, '02 SS wheels, Pioneer HU, MTX & JL amps, 2 12" JBL's, T-Top Conversion!

          Comment

          • #6
            Originally posted by blackthunder50
            I can only notice it when I turn sharply and going very slow, I hear a thud and it feels like the front shifts. I checked the whole front and every thing looks perfect, no rub marks or anything, the frame rails, shock arm, all that stuff looks perfect. I also had an alignment last year. Theres no problems while driving though.
            How many miles are on it? I wonder if it could be a control arm bushing.
            2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning

            1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD

            A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"

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            • #7
              It's not the tires, it's probably a bad ball joint or tie rod end. Check your sway bar end links and the bushings also.

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              • #8
                Change the rear end fluid and put in a couple bottles of the GM additive. See if that helps. I had the same problem and thought it was the front tires rubbing or skipping, but all that went away when I put some conventional oil in the rear diff & 2 $7.00bottles of the GM stuff. Now it turns real smooth, or at least it would, if the engine was still in it If you have a stock 10 bolt, you might only need one bottle.

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                • #9
                  Just so you know you're not crazy. The same thing happened to my 96 Z28. Only when in reverse with the wheel turned all the way to the right. Kind of a slight thunk... pause...thunk...pause...etc. Mine sounded like it was coming from the front. But I was running Redline Synthetic in the differential. Redline said I didn't need the slip additive.

                  Sold my car...it wasn't a big problem, but never had the time to narrow it down. I was running 255 tires...so that's definitely not it.
                  Joe K.
                  '11 BMW 328i
                  '10 Matrix S AWD
                  Previously: '89 Plymouth Sundance Turbo, '98 Camaro V6, '96 Camaro Z28, '99 Camaro Z28, '04 Grand Prix GTP

                  Comment

                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Kevin - Blown 95 TA
                    Change the rear end fluid and put in a couple bottles of the GM additive. See if that helps. I had the same problem and thought it was the front tires rubbing or skipping, but all that went away when I put some conventional oil in the rear diff & 2 $7.00bottles of the GM stuff. Now it turns real smooth, or at least it would, if the engine was still in it If you have a stock 10 bolt, you might only need one bottle.


                    Alrite Im going to add some more additive into it next week, I'll also check the bushings in the front and the ball joints. Thanks guys
                    1996 Z-28 6 speed, Airfoil, K&N FIPK, Flowmaster muffler, Motive 3.73 gears, BBK shorty headers, cut-out, LS1 Driveshaft, no power options (Rare), Prothane tranny mount, MSD 8.5mm wires, Accel U-Groove Plugs, Chrome hurst short throw, TB Bypass, ES Torque arm mount, BMR subframe connectors (weld-in), Lt4 Knock Module, Descreened MAF, '02 SS wheels, Pioneer HU, MTX & JL amps, 2 12" JBL's, T-Top Conversion!

                    Comment

                    • #11
                      Added the additive tonight and that bumping is gone! Thanks for all the advice guys!
                      1996 Z-28 6 speed, Airfoil, K&N FIPK, Flowmaster muffler, Motive 3.73 gears, BBK shorty headers, cut-out, LS1 Driveshaft, no power options (Rare), Prothane tranny mount, MSD 8.5mm wires, Accel U-Groove Plugs, Chrome hurst short throw, TB Bypass, ES Torque arm mount, BMR subframe connectors (weld-in), Lt4 Knock Module, Descreened MAF, '02 SS wheels, Pioneer HU, MTX & JL amps, 2 12" JBL's, T-Top Conversion!

                      Comment

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