Deal on a 94 V6

[Trans Am]

I would paint it myself, as Joe and Gary said it shoudnt be too hard and the worst that can happen is that you lose the money you pay for the paint. And even the paint shops mess it up sometimes
Would be a useful experience for future projects

[fastTa]

It's not very hard. I've had the oppurtunity to paint a few project cars. The hardest part is matching the color and getting the clear smooth and consistent. Just make 50/50 overlaps. Play with the air pressure on a piece of test material. Don't forget Tracy that once you get the primer finished it needs to be sealed.

$200 is way too much to simply shoot one panel, especially since they aren't doing any prepwork. You're already on a roll, why not just take it one step further. Just think of how rewarding it will feel.

[TraceZ]

Don't forget Tracy that once you get the primer finished it needs to be sealed.

Sealed? I thought that base coat went over the primer?

[fastTa]

Sealed? I thought that base coat went over the primer?

You have to have all of your layers of primer sealed before you can shoot the color. Then you can clear.

This is the way I have always seen the pro's do it:

1. First layer of primer. I like traditional "high build" primers as opposed to epoxy primers because epoxy primers are difficult to sand.

2. Next layer of same primer as the first, but this time mix in a double reduced small amount of base. Just mist it on, this isn't an actual buildup layer. This way it is easier to see the high and low spots, and you know when you have gone past the 2nd layer of primer. Finish blocking this layer with 200-220 grit.

3. Now you apply the final layer of primer/sealer. Any polyurethane primer/sealer will do in your case.Most guys will apply at least 2 fairly thick layers on this one because you will do you final blocking and a lot of it on this layer. Finish blocking this layer with no less than 720. 540-600 will probably be ok to match your existing body finish.

4. Now you can shoot the base and clear. Use 50/50 overlapping strokes on both. On the clear, use a urethane reducer and not the cheap reducer solvents.

[TraceZ]

This stuff is what scares me. I had never heard of sealing the primer until you said that just now. Nobody I've talked with has mentioned it until this.

I have two primers.

first coat: epoxy etching primer to cover the bare metal areas, provide good adhesion and prevent corrosion.

second and third coats: A high build laquer primer. sands easily. finish with 600 grit paper.

base and clear: some enamel paint Maaco uses.

that's it... that is all Maaco told me to do. They said they would paint the color over that, then clear the entire quarter. They never said anything about a sealer over the primer.

This is what scares me about this whole project. These primers and stuff all need to be the correct types or the layers of material will not bond with each other correctly. I dont want the finish to start flaking off the car in 6 months.

I've had 2 shops, Maaco and Kelly Moss Performance coach me on what primers to use before the base, neither one mentioned a sealer. Neither did the guy at the body shop supply store that sold me the primers. According to him and both the body shops, that was all I needed before shooting base and clear.

I'm going to stick with what I've heard from 3 sources now and not use any sealer. I'd hate to stick another layer of material in there and have it cause a bonding problem between the layers. Not to mention the extra labor on my part, and cost of the stuff.

[fastTa]

It doesn't surprise me a bit that Maaco would not use a primer/sealer or even might not know about it. Yikes, that is scary. This unfortunately is why Maaco is known as the laughing stock amongst the real pro's who take their time to do it right.

You really should seek the advice of a real and professional auto body shop. Any professional auto body shop know full well that primer/sealer is as much a part of the paint job as is the color and clear.

Just trying to give you some good advice my brother.

[Joe 1320]

Not using sealer is one reason why their paint jobs don't last.... frequently they flake. Hint, hint. One paint job I did was with a urethane enamel and used the correct sealers. 18 years later, the paint is still holding strong.

[fastTa]

Not using sealer is one reason why their paint jobs don't last.... frequently they flake. Hint, hint.

Yes sir. You've heard the Maaco horror stories.

[TraceZ]

Yes sir. You've heard the Maaco horror stories.

Ok, it looks like I need to ask more questions at the body shop supply store.

[Joe 1320]

Yes sir. You've heard the Maaco horror stories.

I've never done the Maaco thing, but have a few friends that did it before I could get ahold of them. I've seen some funky stuff coming from them.

[fastTa]

Earl Scheib is another one like Maaco.

Home of the $299 special!!!

[fastTa]

Just for kicks, here are a few shots of when we did my Tahoe a while back:

No, that's not me in the pics.

[TraceZ]

Ugh.

We went to spray the primer today, and it turns out the gun I bought is totally wrong. It works at 60 - 80 PSI. The paint requires 30 - 40 PSI.

I sprayed some primer on at 60PSI and dont like the results. I'm going to return this gun. I just ordered one online that works at 25 - 50 PSI and is recommended for automotive applications.

Also, I think we should just paint the entire quarter. Everything is taped off and ready to go now anyways, so why not just shoot the entire panel.

I have the rear bumper cover removed. If I take it to the body shop supply place will they be able to color match the paint based on the bumper cover?

If they can, that is sweet. I think I'll just repaint the whole quarter myself.

yet to purchase:

primer sealer
Base
Clear
a second respirator
600 grit sandpaper

On a good note... My rust repairs disappeared completely now that some primer is covering them. It's nice to not have to look at them anymore.

[fastTa]

Yeah, if they are good they can just match it by mixing some and comparing it, and then repeating until they get it close. Most of the body shops now have the ability to color match with an optical sensor that communicates to a mixer and adds the appropriate mix of color. Just like the one at Home Depot.

It's also a good idea to pick up a pressure regulator so you can dial in the exact pressure. You also should get a water separator for in between the compressor and the gun.

[Joe 1320]

Ugh.



Also, I think we should just paint the entire quarter. Everything is taped off and ready to go now anyways, so why not just shoot the entire panel.

I have the rear bumper cover removed. If I take it to the body shop supply place will they be able to color match the paint based on the bumper cover?

.

Agreed.... blend the clear into the surrounding panel and polish.

Having the part like the bumper cover is darned handy. As Kevin said, they can optically scan it and match the paint better than a photo.