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It's Time for a Timing Chain!

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  • It's Time for a Timing Chain!

    Well, I found out what was causing the P0336 Crankshaft Sensor Code......It was the timing chain. Last night driving home from work, it broke, but not completely. A piece of the chain must have been hanging off and was slapping the inside of the timing cover. So I shut it down and had it towed home. But at least I know EXACTLY what it is now.....

    The entire ignition system is new. The Water Pump is new. But, what else should I replace while I'm in there?

    I know that I have to take the motor off the mounts and jack it up a few inches to get the oil pan off. If I'm using a motor hoist, where do I hook it up to jack the motor up?
    Darrin C
    '97 Z28 LT1 157K (((S O L D ))) A4, C/I Cold Air Induction, Flomaster Exhaust, SLP Fan Control Mod, Eibach Springs w/1" Drop, Racing Dynamics Shock Tower Brace, Lakewood LCA's.
    07 Ford F150 - Daily Driver. I went from f-body to f-series. I think I'm out of my f'in mind.....

  • #2
    Originally posted by 97LT1Z28
    I know that I have to take the motor off the mounts and jack it up a few inches to get the oil pan off. If I'm using a motor hoist, where do I hook it up to jack the motor up?
    I dont think that is necessary. Just drop the pan down onto the k-member. It should give you enough clearance to get the timing cover off.

    I'm pretty sure it is possible to change the oil pan gaskets without lifting the engine. you just have to pull the y-pipe and starter.
    Tracy
    2002 C5 M6 Convertible
    1994 Z28 M6 Convertible
    Current Mods:
    SLP Ultra-Z functional ramair, SS Spoiler, STB, SFCs, Headers, Clutch, Bilstein Shocks, and TB Airfoil. 17x9 SS rims with Goodyear tires, 160F T-Stat, MSD Blaster Coil, Taylor wires, Hurst billet shifter, Borla catback with QTP e-cutout, Tuned PCM, 1LE Swaybars, 1LE driveshaft, ES bushings, White gauges, C5 front brakes, !CAGS, Bose/Soundstream audio, CST leather interior, synthetic fluids

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    • #3
      Doing the oil pan gasket on the car is a LOT of fun. Maybe you'll get lucky getting the timing cover loose and yours won't tear.

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      • #4
        I annihilated my gasket the first time. And I was careful. But, you don't have to touch the motor mounts. Just unbolt the pan and let it rest on the k-member.

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        • #5
          I managed to take off the timing chain cover on mine without dropping the pan, but the gasket came out with it. I installed it back the same way, using only silicone on the corners to prevent leakage. To date it hasnt leaked any oil, and that was 2 years ago. If I remember right, Rob (Shoebox) also did it without removing the pan OR the gasket. Ill have to look that up though.
          1996 Arctic White Z28, A4, K&N CAI, TByrne MAF ends, BBK Twin-52mm TB, TB Bypass, SLP 1 3/4" Shorties, Richmond 3.42's, Dynomax Bullet Muffler W/Turn Down, BMR Adj. Panhard, EIBACH Pro-Kit, AFS ZR1 Wheels W/17x11" out back!

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          • #6
            Originally posted by AmericanZ28
            I managed to take off the timing chain cover on mine without dropping the pan, but the gasket came out with it. I installed it back the same way, using only silicone on the corners to prevent leakage. To date it hasnt leaked any oil, and that was 2 years ago. If I remember right, Rob (Shoebox) also did it without removing the pan OR the gasket. Ill have to look that up though.
            The second and later times I also did not have to drop the pan at all once I figured out the little tricks. I just used a conservative amount of black RTV in the corners.

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            • #7
              I think that when the engine is assembled for the very first time with all clean dry parts & that grey silicone, it glues the corners in real good which is what makes it so hard to get off the first go-around.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by Kevin - Blown 95 TA
                I think that when the engine is assembled for the very first time with all clean dry parts & that grey silicone, it glues the corners in real good which is what makes it so hard to get off the first go-around.
                I think your right. I've seen so many people tear up the gasket and the plastic timing cover on the Vortec's the first time. But, after that it seems much easier to pull apart.

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                • #9
                  Do you think it's possible to drop the oil pan to the K-member (without jacking the motor up) and still remove the pan so I can replace the oil pan gaskets?
                  Darrin C
                  '97 Z28 LT1 157K (((S O L D ))) A4, C/I Cold Air Induction, Flomaster Exhaust, SLP Fan Control Mod, Eibach Springs w/1" Drop, Racing Dynamics Shock Tower Brace, Lakewood LCA's.
                  07 Ford F150 - Daily Driver. I went from f-body to f-series. I think I'm out of my f'in mind.....

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by 97LT1Z28
                    Do you think it's possible to drop the oil pan to the K-member (without jacking the motor up) and still remove the pan so I can replace the oil pan gaskets?
                    No the pan will not come out, BUT, it doesnt need to. You will be able to replace the gaskets with the pan resting on the k-member. I've never actually done it, but I would think the hard part would be cleaning the old gaskets off without dropping a bunch of chunks in the oil pan.
                    Tracy
                    2002 C5 M6 Convertible
                    1994 Z28 M6 Convertible
                    Current Mods:
                    SLP Ultra-Z functional ramair, SS Spoiler, STB, SFCs, Headers, Clutch, Bilstein Shocks, and TB Airfoil. 17x9 SS rims with Goodyear tires, 160F T-Stat, MSD Blaster Coil, Taylor wires, Hurst billet shifter, Borla catback with QTP e-cutout, Tuned PCM, 1LE Swaybars, 1LE driveshaft, ES bushings, White gauges, C5 front brakes, !CAGS, Bose/Soundstream audio, CST leather interior, synthetic fluids

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      You just stretch the gasket around the bottom of the pan into place and it will then have to be fished around the dipstick tube which is a little tricky unless you can undo the tube and pull it up a little bit. The whole time, you're trying to not get it oily, and smear the RTV sealer around the front & back, and not much room to work with. Kind of a messy job, but definately doable.

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