Camaro project

[Joe 1320]

Personally, I would just have the LT1 heads and intake worked. A ported LT1 head will outflow an out of the box LT4 head.

[TraceZ]

Personally, I would just have the LT1 heads and intake worked. A ported LT1 head will outflow an out of the box LT4 head.

I agree, for $250 you can buy a set of used LT1 heads and a used intake manifold.

Send them away to someone like LE to have them ported and matched.
I'm not sure about LE's prices, but i'm pretty sure that in the end you would have a very nice flowing top end for around $1750.

This is what I'll be doing on my 396 project as soon as the money allows for it.

[RocKin1967]

doesnt edelbrock have an lt4 kit? just a thought.

[AmericanZ28]

I agree, for $250 you can buy a set of used LT1 heads and a used intake manifold.

Send them away to someone like LE to have them ported and matched.
I'm not sure about LE's prices, but i'm pretty sure that in the end you would have a very nice flowing top end for around $1750.

This is what I'll be doing on my 396 project as soon as the money allows for it.

396? What happened to 383? I see where this is headed!

Steve, try looking up Advanced Induction! I was checking out their site and they're pumping out some high numbers with their head work, and its pretty cheap too! Im getting ready to send mine out to them for their 180cc Street/Strip CNC LT1 Cylinder Head Package. They also offer a money back guarantee! You just cant beat that!

[Z Ya Later]

Well, after kicking the idea around some more in my head and talking with one of the guys at Advanced Induction, I'm going to go with them (thanks AmericanZ28 for the pointer ). I'm looking at the 180cc Street/Strip package with their upgraded bronze guides, Ferra 6000 valves, Comp Cams valvetrain components and the Street/Strip ported intake. Still not sure on the cam yet or if I'm going to go with the electric or standard water pump. I guess its going to boil down to which timing set I go with. I've also decided against doing the 95+ front end conversion on the motor, which basically eliminates the LT4 Extreme Duty set. So, the everything looks now is as follows...

Ai 180cc S/S head package
Ai S/S intake porting
Comp Cams custom cam, lifters, pushrods, 1.6 Pro-Mag RRs (7/16" studs), .600" Dual-valve springs
AS&M 54mm throttle body
MSD Opti
Pace Setter ceramic headers (seen too many problems with SLP's set )
ES poly motor mounts
Spec Stage 2 lightweight clutch and aluminum flywheel
Spohn Extreme Duty driveshaft

I've still gotta decide on whether or not I'm going to do the short block as well. If I do, I'll have it rebuilt to a 355 (would love a 383, but I need the mileage more lol).

So, now for my questions...

1) Should I stick with the stock or stock-like aftermarket timing set or just use an SBC timing set and convert to an electric water pump? All I can find for LT1 sets are the OEM set, Lunati set and the $500 Comp Cams set (geez, does that thing give you gold bricks as well?!?!).

2) Would it be worthwhile to do the short block as well since I'll already have everything else off? It wouldn't really be that much more work to pull it, I'll just need to get a cherry picker and engine hoist from Summit.

3) Will the tranny stand up to that motor once I'm done? What would I need to have done to it for it to withstand the power? I'm already getting a girdle for the rear in the next couple weeks from Kev and, if I upgrade the diff., axle shafts, do the C-clip eliminator and change the gears it will be under half the cost of a Moser 12-bolt. Thus, I might as well do the tranny if it's going to need it.

4) Which would be a better posi unit? Auburn? Eaton? Zexel? Any others?

5) Would it be worth my while to upgrade the injectors again? I just put 28 lb. injectors on last summer. Would those be enough for all this or am I going to be starving the motor for fuel?

6) Dyno tune or PCMForLess update?

Thanks in advance guys.

[fastTa]

1. Don't forget the EX Components, Lunati, and Cloyes double rollers. I would personally opt for the electric WP myself. Just incorporate an audible or LED warning system in case of pump failure. My CSI elerctric WP worked awesome and always kept the car cool, especially in traffic.

2. Might as well massage the bottom end while everything else is out.

3. My 10 bolt with the girdle held up to 488 RWHP for over a year with 26 x 10.5 MT ET Drags and a 3800 custom stall. But, that's no guarantee yours will. The tranny will not like much over 375-400 at the crank.

4. If this is going to be a mostly street/strip car, I would go for the Eaton or Auburn. The Eaton is a bit stronger. The Zexel-Torsen is more suited for Auto-X or road racing. If you really want a strong rear at the track but good street manners on the street, do an air locker 12 bolt.

5. 30lb SVO's wouldn't hurt.

6. Dyno for sure. It's hard to nail a tune with port work and bigger cam without it being on a dyno. They can get it close, but a dyno tune can be nailed with out any doubts.

You might want to consider going with a SPEC 3 instead. It engages just like stock and will hold much better.

[Z Ya Later]

1. Don't forget the EX Components, Lunati, and Cloyes double rollers. I would personally opt for the electric WP myself. Just incorporate an audible or LED warning system in case of pump failure. My CSI elerctric WP worked awesome and always kept the car cool, especially in traffic.

I have thought about it, but with my luck it'd fail just as i got to work lol

2. Might as well massage the bottom end while everything else is out.

How much do you think it would be to freshen it up? It'd only be to a 355...still needs to get somewhat decent mileage lol

3. My 10 bolt with the girdle held up to 488 RWHP for over a year with 26 x 10.5 MT ET Drags and a 3800 custom stall. But, that's no guarantee yours will. The tranny will not like much over 375-400 at the crank.

Well, in the process of building up the rear it would basically be completely rebuilt with Moser parts and a new diff. That should be good, right?

4. If this is going to be a mostly street/strip car, I would go for the Eaton or Auburn. The Eaton is a bit stronger. The Zexel-Torsen is more suited for Auto-X or road racing. If you really want a strong rear at the track but good street manners on the street, do an air locker 12 bolt.

So, there wouldn't be much difference between the Eaton and the Zexel? Would the Eaton do decently if I took the care t o the occasional road course or auto-X meet?

5. 30lb SVO's wouldn't hurt.

Ugh, you said the cursed word lol. Any reason, besides cost, to go with the SVOs?

6. Dyno for sure. It's hard to nail a tune with port work and bigger cam without it being on a dyno. They can get it close, but a dyno tune can be nailed with out any doubts.

I figured as much. One of the guys from Advanced Induction that does their tuning apperantly makes his way out here from time to time, so I may have him do it.

You might want to consider going with a SPEC 3 instead. It engages just like stock and will hold much better.

Any reason to go with the Stage 3 over the 2+? Holds the same torque but with the feel of the of the Stage 2...if there's any difference. lol

Thanks for the help so Kev, I appreciate it

[fastTa]

I have thought about it, but with my luck it'd fail just as i got to work lol

How much do you think it would be to freshen it up? It'd only be to a 355...still needs to get somewhat decent mileage lol

Well, in the process of building up the rear it would basically be completely rebuilt with Moser parts and a new diff. That should be good, right?

So, there wouldn't be much difference between the Eaton and the Zexel? Would the Eaton do decently if I took the care t o the occasional road course or auto-X meet?

Ugh, you said the cursed word lol. Any reason, besides cost, to go with the SVOs?

I figured as much. One of the guys from Advanced Induction that does their tuning apperantly makes his way out here from time to time, so I may have him do it.

Any reason to go with the Stage 3 over the 2+? Holds the same torque but with the feel of the of the Stage 2...if there's any difference. lol

Thanks for the help so Kev, I appreciate it

If you are keeping your stock rods and crank, boring .030" over, and going with a relatively inexpensive piston, no more than $500-$600 for a freshen up if you bring them the motor.

Why not try to find a good deal on a used 12 bolt. You could probably find one for the same price as you'll be spending in brand new Moser 10 bolt parts.

The Eaton uses clutches, the Zexel-Torsen has a torque sensing worm-gear drive. The Zexel-Torsen's are weird because they will not transfer any power to the other side if one side is not getting any traction. Makes cutting cookies really wacky! So this makes them good for Auto-X, but not as good for straight line traction if you plan on going to the strip.

The SVO's are actually a quality injector, and relatively inexpensive.

At least go with the SPEC 2+. It has a carbon-kevlar disc, as opposed to a 100% kevlar disc. There is a difference in torque ratings between the 2, 2+, and 3 and I think that SPEC's torque ratings are a little glorified. I just like the option of having the 4 or 6 puck choice on the Stage 3, and the semi-metallic-carbon disc is so much better.

[Z Ya Later]

If you are keeping your stock rods and crank, boring .030" over, and going with a relatively inexpensive piston, no more than $500-$600 for a freshen up if you bring them the motor.

Would it be a good idea to replace/upgrade the connecting rods? I would assume the crank would be fine (hopefully), but the rods would be a little more beaten up, wouldn't they?

Why not try to find a good deal on a used 12 bolt. You could probably find one for the same price as you'll be spending in brand new Moser 10 bolt parts.

I can look when the time comes, and it is a good idea, you're right. But, with the couple that I have seen for sale, I have a feeling its not going to be easy to find one I like (Eaton posi, 33-spline axles, 3-chan. ABS). Eh, no harm in looking when the time comes though.

The Eaton uses clutches, the Zexel-Torsen has a torque sensing worm-gear drive. The Zexel-Torsen's are weird because they will not transfer any power to the other side if one side is not getting any traction. Makes cutting cookies really wacky! So this makes them good for Auto-X, but not as good for straight line traction if you plan on going to the strip.

Then the Eaton posi unit it is...whichever rear I go with lol :d

The SVO's are actually a quality injector, and relatively inexpensive.

I'm sure they are, but its that Fraud...err, Ford...name that gets me lol. Alright alright, I'll get over I suppose lol

At least go with the SPEC 2+. It has a carbon-kevlar disc, as opposed to a 100% kevlar disc. There is a difference in torque ratings between the 2, 2+, and 3 and I think that SPEC's torque ratings are a little glorified. I just like the option of having the 4 or 6 puck choice on the Stage 3, and the semi-metallic-carbon disc is so much better.

Well, after looking at the price difference between the 2 and 3, $40 isn't all that bad. Maybe I will go with that.

Also, I would assume doing the fuel pump would be a good idea, right? Any recommendations on a brand? Thanks Kev, and everyone else that has chimed in

[fastTa]

If it were me I would swap rods. You can a set of Scat or Eagle 5140 I-Beam's for less than $250. Go with a full float pin.

Depending on how much torque you end up making, you might be able to get away with the Stage 2+ instead of the Stage 2.

A fuel pump swap would be a good idea. Bosch makes a great pump.

[Z Ya Later]

If it were me I would swap rods. You can a set of Scat or Eagle 5140 I-Beam's for less than $250. Go with a full float pin.

Depending on how much torque you end up making, you might be able to get away with the Stage 2+ instead of the Stage 2.

A fuel pump swap would be a good idea. Bosch makes a great pump.

Exactly what I was thinking. A new crank would be about the same, right? Maybe I should add that to the list as well. As for the clutch, I'll just go with the Stage 3 like you suggested. Its cheaper than the Stage 2+ and will hold more torque. For the fuel pump, any reason to pick the Bosch over the Holley, Walbro, etc. fuel pumps? Not that I have a problem with Bosch, just wondering if there's something you know that I don't .

[fastTa]

Exactly what I was thinking. A new crank would be about the same, right? Maybe I should add that to the list as well. As for the clutch, I'll just go with the Stage 3 like you suggested. Its cheaper than the Stage 2+ and will hold more torque. For the fuel pump, any reason to pick the Bosch over the Holley, Walbro, etc. fuel pumps? Not that I have a problem with Bosch, just wondering if there's something you know that I don't .

For the power you will be making, a cast steel or 5140 forged crank would be sufficient for the power and RPM you will be at. I think you said you didn't forsee any major power upgrades in the near future.


As far as the Bosch pumps.....I have seen and heard of the least amount of failures with Bosch pumps. I have also been using Bosch 02 sensors for years in numerous different vehicles without a single problem; contrary to the popularly perpetuated internet trend.

[Z Ya Later]

For the power you will be making, a cast steel or 5140 forged crank would be sufficient for the power and RPM you will be at. I think you said you didn't forsee any major power upgrades in the near future.


As far as the Bosch pumps.....I have seen and heard of the least amount of failures with Bosch pumps. I have also been using Bosch 02 sensors for years in numerous different vehicles without a single problem; contrary to the popularly perpetuated internet trend.

Yeah, after this is all done, I'm not doing much else to the Z. I want her to be a street sleeper, nothing more. The car making the real power will be the GN .

I've had pretty good history with Bosch stuff, I just wasn't sure if there was any reason to go with them over another company. They make a 255 L/hr. unit, right?

[Z Ya Later]

Alright, I'm starting to lean more toward the electric water pump idea. Summit's pump seems to have the longest life expectancy, but the Heavy Duty Meziere unit seems to flow the most. Any suggestions on which way to go?

Also, I did some reading and, since I've got a 93, if I want to run an SBC chain I've gotta convert to the vented-Opti setup. Is this correct? If so, I'll probably just stick with the stock setup then. I have no desire to convert the front.