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Strut brace and suspension.

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  • Strut brace and suspension.

    Well I've just fitted a strut brace, and I cant believe the difference its made. Cornering feels much tighter and more positive. the car doesnt seem to "dip" in turns like it used to. It also seems to turn in quicker. Easily the best mod I've made yet! $60! well worth it! Only trouble is had to bend Aircon pipes, Aircon refill point is touching bar, and the throttle cables only have 5mm room! I'll check in a weak to see if there are any signes of damage to the cables but all should be good!

    I had 4 Adults in my car the other day, full tank of gas, and my Audio stuff in trunk (3amps and base box)... Any bumps or tight turns the rear suspension would bottom out or grind was hured under the wheel wells
    I've looked for signes of damage, seen But whats caused this? Is it the dampers? weak springs? Is the suspension just aged (12 years old) Or was the car just over loaded?
    I wanted to lower and up rate the suspension anyway, but its bottoming out the height its at now

    Any ideas greatfully accepted!
    cheers Phill
    Screaming Mad
    Car: 1994 Camaro, 3.4l V6
    Pace Setter headers & Y pipe, Flowmaster Z28 exhaust, K&N cone filter. modded 4l60e, trans cooler, strut brace, Eibach pro-kit
    0-60 7.74
    1/4 16.52 @ 85.3

    Bike: Suzuki GSXR K4 600, K&N filter,Rizla kit, R&G bobbins, Db screen, LED indicators

  • #2
    When you load the car up like that, any signs of weakness in the rear suspension will show.

    The springs will determine how the body sits (whether loaded or unloaded). Weak springs will let the car drop when you put any weight in the trunk or back seats.

    The dampers (shocks) will determine how the wheel/axle assembly reacts while driving over bumps.

    combine that with a lot of weight in the back, you'll bottom out.

    Replace the rear dampers (shocks) first and see if that helps - then replace the springs if you still encounter the same problems.

    Good luck.
    Darrin C
    '97 Z28 LT1 157K (((S O L D ))) A4, C/I Cold Air Induction, Flomaster Exhaust, SLP Fan Control Mod, Eibach Springs w/1" Drop, Racing Dynamics Shock Tower Brace, Lakewood LCA's.
    07 Ford F150 - Daily Driver. I went from f-body to f-series. I think I'm out of my f'in mind.....

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    • #3
      My car bottoms out LESS now that I lowered it. My stock springs were sagging so I replaced them with an Eibach ProKit. Since the spring is much stiffer, it doesnt allow the suspension to travel as easy as it did before... Therefore... Less bottoming out. Actually, I dont think I have bottomed out at all since I put the new springs on last winter.
      No F-Body right now

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      • #4
        Thanks guys! I'll get looking for a kit... Do I have to replace front suspension if I replace rear?
        Screaming Mad
        Car: 1994 Camaro, 3.4l V6
        Pace Setter headers & Y pipe, Flowmaster Z28 exhaust, K&N cone filter. modded 4l60e, trans cooler, strut brace, Eibach pro-kit
        0-60 7.74
        1/4 16.52 @ 85.3

        Bike: Suzuki GSXR K4 600, K&N filter,Rizla kit, R&G bobbins, Db screen, LED indicators

        Comment


        • #5
          Definitly do the front springs if you do the rears. They usually come in a set of (4) anyway. Also, since you are taking apart the suspension anyway, this is a good time to check/replace any worn bushings or balljoints.

          When I installed my springs I also replaced:

          -Control Arm Bushings
          -Ball Joints
          -Strut Mounts
          -Entire steering linkage
          -Steering Box
          -Shocks/Struts
          -Swaybar Endlinks
          -And I ended up upgrading to a 12" brake setup while I was in there.

          I went a little overkill and just replaced everything!
          No F-Body right now

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          • #6
            GO ALL THE WAY

            try eibach springs with qa1 adjustable shocks,it will turn the front into coil over. talk to jim @ TPIS 952-448-6021

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            • #7
              Based on my experience, the QA1/HAL shocks and the Eibach Pro-Kt springs make a terrible combination. The back of the car had a jerky up-and-down "chop" like a slammed S-10 riding on the axles. No amount of adjusting the QA1's would get rid of the chop. I don't mind "harsh", but this wasn't what it was.... it just jerked the back end up and down all over the place. With the Eibach Drag Launch springs, the ride is much better controlled.

              I've seen a few other people complain about the QA1/Pro-Kit combo.
              Fred

              381ci all-forged stroker - 10.8:1 - CNC LT4 heads/intake - CC solid roller - MoTeC engine management - 8 LS1 coils - 58mm TB - 78# injectors - 300-shot dry nitrous - TH400 - Gear Vendor O/D - Strange 12-bolt - 4.11's - AS&M headers - duals - Corbeau seat - AutoMeter gauges - roll bar - Spohn suspension - QA1 shocks - a few other odds 'n ends. 800HP/800lb-ft at the flywheel, on a 300-shot. 11.5 @ 117MPH straight motor

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