Engine Plan...Thoughts?

[thenuge876]

My goal would be for an N/A engine, not a daily driver that might see occasional strip use, but mostly to just be a powerful street machine. This is just for the engine right now, rear and suspension, etc. will all be for later on. My goal is for something like 350-400 RWHP.

Block Bored +.040"

Rotating Assembly:
Forged 4340 Crank (maybe cast steel), 3.48" Stroke
Forged 4340 Rods, 5.700" Long
Forged Pistons, +.040" (about 10.4:1 compression)
All new gaskets and bearings (rebuild kit)

Valve Train:
Ported And Polished Heads (similar to the LE2 package), New springs, valves, etc.
Hardened Pushrods
1.6 RR's
Custom Grind Cam (probably from Comp. Cams)
Cloyes Double Roller Timing Set

Intake:
Ported Manifold
Cold Air Intake, Maybe Ram Air
52 or 58 mm T.B (thoughts??)
New MAF

Cooling:
Electric Waterpump
Manual Fan Switch
160* T. stat

Fuel:
Larger Fuel Pump
30/36 lb. Injectors

All running into 1 3/4" Long Tubes.

I still want to keep a good amount of torque down low too, as it will mostly see the street, but incase I want to run it at the track I want to have some good times. Hopefully I didn't forget anything, but if I did I'll try to fill in the blanks, anyways let me know what you guys think!

[speed racer]

go 383 for more power

[thenuge876]

I would but that is just going to be too much money for the proper parts, and machining to get done. So I figured I could go a few cubes bigger, and still get a decent set, although if I ended up going with a forged crank instead of a steel one, I might have to look into it.... right now I think it would be too much though.

[Injuneer]

If you are tight on $$$, and you don't intend to go for a power adder, consider a polished/radiused stock crank or a low $$$ cast crank. Consider the stock PM LT1 rods. You really don't need forged pieces for that kind of HP levels. You could even consider hypereutectic piston.... light weight and less problems with cold clearance slap.