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My front rotor wont come off

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  • #16
    Yes gimp, just go ahead and beat the hell out of the rotor until until it shatters into pieces. Also don't worry about ruining anything else, you can just replace it...... right?

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    • #17
      i've done this hundreds of times at my job along with other mechanics. there was only one problem and that was cuz of a set of pads wore out pre maturely(sp?). lexus are the wrost for sticking rotors
      2009 Honda Civic EX- the daily beater

      old toys - 1983 trans am, 1988 trans am, 1986 IROC-Z, 2002 Ram Off-Road, 1984 K10, 1988 Mustang GT, 2006 Silverado 2500HD

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      • #18
        Originally posted by 88bird5spd
        i've done this hundreds of times at my job along with other mechanics. there was only one problem and that was cuz of a set of pads wore out pre maturely(sp?). lexus are the wrost for sticking rotors
        Would you care to post the name of your shop, so that those of us who do things the correct way, can stay far away from your shop.

        Thanks.

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        • #19
          actually i would since our shop advertises thru word of mouth, we must be doing something right since we've been in the bizz since 1976
          2009 Honda Civic EX- the daily beater

          old toys - 1983 trans am, 1988 trans am, 1986 IROC-Z, 2002 Ram Off-Road, 1984 K10, 1988 Mustang GT, 2006 Silverado 2500HD

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          • #20
            Well I "bit the bullet" after quitting on the drivers side and finding the same problem on the pass side. Had to buy new hubs after a can of wd-40, a alot of elbow grease, map gas, and a broken sledge hammer I got the old hubs/rotors off just in time for work On to the rear

            1994 Firebird Formula 138,000 Completly Stock

            1995 Caprice 9c1 61,000
            2001 Intrigue GL

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            • #21
              sounds like u prob woulda needed the heat method to get em off
              2009 Honda Civic EX- the daily beater

              old toys - 1983 trans am, 1988 trans am, 1986 IROC-Z, 2002 Ram Off-Road, 1984 K10, 1988 Mustang GT, 2006 Silverado 2500HD

              Comment


              • #22
                Originally posted by gimp19
                Well I "bit the bullet" after quitting on the drivers side and finding the same problem on the pass side. Had to buy new hubs after a can of wd-40, a alot of elbow grease, map gas, and a broken sledge hammer I got the old hubs/rotors off just in time for work On to the rear
                WD-40 is: Water Displacement Formula #40...... it is not a penetrant for rust.
                It was originally designed to displace water. Next time use PBlaster, it is specifically designed to penetrate. It works 10 times better than the other stuff.

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by 88bird5spd
                  sounds like u prob woulda needed the heat method to get em off
                  Sounds like you need to listen to some of the advice in this thread from people who actually have a good sense of mechanical aptitude.

                  Please DO NOT suggest bad advice to anyone anymore.

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by Joe 1320
                    WD-40 is: Water Displacement Formula #40...... it is not a penetrant for rust.
                    It was originally designed to displace water. Next time use PBlaster, it is specifically designed to penetrate. It works 10 times better than the other stuff.
                    What I was going to say. 3-in-1 oil, Liquid Wrench, PB Blaster, but not WD-40. WD-40 is a nice light lubricant and rust preventative.

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                    • #25
                      actualy it was some stuff made by seafoam, got the rears done today only problem there were the caliper bolts.

                      1994 Firebird Formula 138,000 Completly Stock

                      1995 Caprice 9c1 61,000
                      2001 Intrigue GL

                      Comment

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