Yes gimp, just go ahead and beat the hell out of the rotor until until it shatters into pieces. Also don't worry about ruining anything else, you can just replace it...... right?
i've done this hundreds of times at my job along with other mechanics. there was only one problem and that was cuz of a set of pads wore out pre maturely(sp?). lexus are the wrost for sticking rotors
2009 Honda Civic EX- the daily beater
old toys - 1983 trans am, 1988 trans am, 1986 IROC-Z, 2002 Ram Off-Road, 1984 K10, 1988 Mustang GT, 2006 Silverado 2500HD
i've done this hundreds of times at my job along with other mechanics. there was only one problem and that was cuz of a set of pads wore out pre maturely(sp?). lexus are the wrost for sticking rotors
Would you care to post the name of your shop, so that those of us who do things the correct way, can stay far away from your shop.
Well I "bit the bullet" after quitting on the drivers side and finding the same problem on the pass side. Had to buy new hubs after a can of wd-40, a alot of elbow grease, map gas, and a broken sledge hammer I got the old hubs/rotors off just in time for work On to the rear
Well I "bit the bullet" after quitting on the drivers side and finding the same problem on the pass side. Had to buy new hubs after a can of wd-40, a alot of elbow grease, map gas, and a broken sledge hammer I got the old hubs/rotors off just in time for work On to the rear
WD-40 is: Water Displacement Formula #40...... it is not a penetrant for rust.
It was originally designed to displace water. Next time use PBlaster, it is specifically designed to penetrate. It works 10 times better than the other stuff.
WD-40 is: Water Displacement Formula #40...... it is not a penetrant for rust.
It was originally designed to displace water. Next time use PBlaster, it is specifically designed to penetrate. It works 10 times better than the other stuff.
What I was going to say. 3-in-1 oil, Liquid Wrench, PB Blaster, but not WD-40. WD-40 is a nice light lubricant and rust preventative.
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