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My front rotor wont come off

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  • My front rotor wont come off

    I tried doing my brakes this morn and the darn thing wont budge

    1994 Firebird Formula 138,000 Completly Stock

    1995 Caprice 9c1 61,000
    2001 Intrigue GL

  • #2
    it should just slide right off...i think i remeber havin this problem....try tappin it lightly with a hammer or something.
    1996 Trans Am WS6

    A4, 3" VForce Catback, Corvette C6 rims, Slotted and Drilled Rotors, 160*stat, BMR SFC, HPP3, B&M Shift Kit.

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    • #3
      BFH


      Tracy
      2002 C5 M6 Convertible
      1994 Z28 M6 Convertible
      Current Mods:
      SLP Ultra-Z functional ramair, SS Spoiler, STB, SFCs, Headers, Clutch, Bilstein Shocks, and TB Airfoil. 17x9 SS rims with Goodyear tires, 160F T-Stat, MSD Blaster Coil, Taylor wires, Hurst billet shifter, Borla catback with QTP e-cutout, Tuned PCM, 1LE Swaybars, 1LE driveshaft, ES bushings, White gauges, C5 front brakes, !CAGS, Bose/Soundstream audio, CST leather interior, synthetic fluids

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      • #4
        BFH I used a big sledge and it wouldnt budge at all. I got some spray on there gonna let it sit till fri. morn cause I gotta go to work.

        1994 Firebird Formula 138,000 Completly Stock

        1995 Caprice 9c1 61,000
        2001 Intrigue GL

        Comment


        • #5
          Like Tracy said you need to break it loose from the wheel bearing hub. Don't pound it too hard or you could damage the bearing. You can also use a puller to grab the outside of rotor and the line the puller up with the center of the hub and then tighten it down to break the rotor loose from the hub. Your up in my area and the salt and rust can cause you a lot of trouble. Keep going at it, you'll get it... Good Luck...
          2005 GTO (mine) K&N CAI and Magnaflow exhaust, drilled and slotted rotors, and other minor mods.
          1994 Formula (mine) SOLD 6-23-08 Still miss it
          2002 V6 Firebird (wifes)
          2013 GMC Sierra (mine)
          2011 Cadillac CTS4 (wifes)

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          • #6
            OK dumb question but I have to ask. Are the 2 retaining clips that the factory puts on the 2 studs still there?
            2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning

            1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD

            A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"

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            • #7
              If those are original and rusted in he can bang them all day they wont budge. Must have a puller to get them off. Only way I got mine off.
              http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2317021/1

              2001 Blk Firbird Formula 6 sp hurst shift (my toy) Upgrades: American thunder Flowmasters, Cross drilled rotors, Centerforce Clutch and Flywheel. Car is in Bodyshop for full painting now with Ram Air, Rims, and wing being installed.
              2006 Blk Cobalt SS (my commuter car)
              2003 Harley 1200 sportster 100th anniversary (For sale)
              2007 Jeep compass

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              • #8
                Soak the hub and rotor contact area with PBlaster, give it a couple of hits with a hammer and let it sit overnight. Spray it again, tap it with the hammer and it should come loose.

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                • #9
                  If those clips arent on there.... Just hit it harder. haha
                  No F-Body right now

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Mark B
                    If those clips arent on there.... Just hit it harder. haha
                    Harder!!

                    Harder!!

                    Tracy
                    2002 C5 M6 Convertible
                    1994 Z28 M6 Convertible
                    Current Mods:
                    SLP Ultra-Z functional ramair, SS Spoiler, STB, SFCs, Headers, Clutch, Bilstein Shocks, and TB Airfoil. 17x9 SS rims with Goodyear tires, 160F T-Stat, MSD Blaster Coil, Taylor wires, Hurst billet shifter, Borla catback with QTP e-cutout, Tuned PCM, 1LE Swaybars, 1LE driveshaft, ES bushings, White gauges, C5 front brakes, !CAGS, Bose/Soundstream audio, CST leather interior, synthetic fluids

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      This clip
                      2002 Electron Blue Vette, 1SC, FE3/Z51, G92 3.15 gears, 308.9 RWHP 321.7 RWTQ (before any mods), SLP headers, Z06 exhaust, MSD Ignition Wires, AC Delco Iridium Spark Plugs, 160 t-stat, lots of ECM tuning

                      1995 Z28, many mods, SOLD

                      A proud member of the "F-Body Dirty Dozen"

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by TraceZ
                        Harder!!

                        Harder!!

                        Um...that didn't sound right.

                        Christopher Teng

                        1999 · A4 · 3.73's · Auburn LSD · Whisper Lid · K&N · Pacesetter Headers/Y-pipe
                        Magnaflow Cat & Catback · MSD Coils/Wires · Bosch +4 Plugs · EGR Bypass
                        B&M SuperCooler · 160* Stat · Descreened MAF · SLP CAI · BMR STB & SFC
                        Strano Sways · Eibach Springs · Bilstein HD Shocks · Hawk-Pads · Brembo Blanks
                        Speedlines · Nitto 555s · Texas Speed Mail Tune

                        Lots of Weight Savings · Stubby Antenna · Corbeau TRS · Zaino · 273K

                        F-Body Dirty Dozen

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                        • #13
                          Like Gary said, do not hit it too hard or you can cause other damage to the wheel hub and bearing. Spray all around the area where the middle of the brake rotor goes around the hub with PBlaster. Then lightly tap with a small hammer all around the hub to get the PBlaster to soak in. PBlaster will soak in in about 30mins. Then use a small piece of wood or something to that effect to hold against the back side of the brake rotor while you make firm but not crazy hits with a decent sized hammer.

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                          • #14
                            You can crack those clips off with a hammer & screwdriver, then work on the rotor. Sometimes the rotor can rust to the hub, but some spray solvent and a few knocks with a block of wood will loosen it. And don't ever hit the rotor directly with a hammer.

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                            • #15
                              beat the hell out of it from the front and back side, dont wry bout the bearing u wont mess it up, done enough of em, the rotor will break into 2 peices be4 the hub/bearing becomes messed up. worse comes to worse, u would have to heat it up with a torch.
                              2009 Honda Civic EX- the daily beater

                              old toys - 1983 trans am, 1988 trans am, 1986 IROC-Z, 2002 Ram Off-Road, 1984 K10, 1988 Mustang GT, 2006 Silverado 2500HD

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