car wont start...son ova &*!(#

[raroZ28]

i could be wrong but I don't think gas in the oil can stop it from starting. Engines can start dry.

[fastTa]

i could be wrong but I don't think gas in the oil can stop it from starting. Engines can start dry.

TA in Europe was not suggesting that he check the oil for gas as a remedy to get the motor started. He was merely suggesting that he check the oil for gas because of turning the motor over so much without it ever firing. That can dump a lot gas past the rings down into the crankcase.

94 Formuala, you might as well just buy 8 new plugs. You don't have to get the Delco platinum's either. You can get the Bosch platinum's for just a little more than $2 a plug and they are good quality. You can even run a Copper/Nickel plug if you want. 98% of the benefit of running a platinum plug is longevity.

I though you said you had 1/6 at TDC on the compression stroke when you indexed the Opti?

[94formulaLT1]

I did buy 8 new ones, AC Delco Platinum...those are the only ones i will run in my car..i was told a while ago that AC's are made for domestic car like gm, ford, dodge and that bosch were designed for imports like honda, toyota crap like that. i guess it has to do with the resistance.. but yeah, the ones i have are brand new but tryin to start it and having it not start blackend the electrodes so i just want a fast and easy way to clean them..

TA in Europe was not suggesting that he check the oil for gas as a remedy to get the motor started. He was merely suggesting that he check the oil for gas because of turning the motor over so much without it ever firing. That can dump a lot gas past the rings down into the crankcase.

94 Formuala, you might as well just buy 8 new plugs. You don't have to get the Delco platinum's either. You can get the Bosch platinum's for just a little more than $2 a plug and they are good quality. You can even run a Copper/Nickel plug if you want. 98% of the benefit of running a platinum plug is longevity.

I though you said you had 1/6 at TDC on the compression stroke when you indexed the Opti?

[94formulaLT1]

I did buy 8 new ones, AC Delco Platinum...those are the only ones i will run in my car..i was told a while ago that AC's are made for domestic car like gm, ford, dodge and that bosch were designed for imports like honda, toyota crap like that. i guess it has to do with the resistance.. but yeah, the ones i have are brand new but tryin to start it and having it not start blackend the electrodes so i just want a fast and easy way to clean them..

and i quote myself..i know about the fuel going into the crankcase...wouldnt supprise me if it already had..ive done oil changes...even on my car where the oil was so broken down because of fuel..that it looked almost like water..and the stench of course..

so to end this sad story of mine..im probably going to do another oil change after its up and going.

[Kevin - Blown 95 TA]

I did buy 8 new ones, AC Delco Platinum...those are the only ones i will run in my car..i was told a while ago that AC's are made for domestic car like gm, ford, dodge and that bosch were designed for imports like honda, toyota crap like that. i guess it has to do with the resistance.. but yeah, the ones i have are brand new but tryin to start it and having it not start blackend the electrodes so i just want a fast and easy way to clean them..

Just so you know, some of the ACs are made by Torch in China... Not saying they don't work, but there's always Autolites, Champions, etc. But then some of the Champions are made in Mexico and India... Hey, you could use NGKs, but they are made in USA, Japan & China, and the Chinese are copying them and labeling them NCK & NKG.

Go figure. Use what works, I guess.

[fastTa]

I did buy 8 new ones, AC Delco Platinum...those are the only ones i will run in my car..i was told a while ago that AC's are made for domestic car like gm, ford, dodge and that bosch were designed for imports like honda, toyota crap like that. i guess it has to do with the resistance.. but yeah, the ones i have are brand new but tryin to start it and having it not start blackend the electrodes so i just want a fast and easy way to clean them..

Blackened plugs like you described can be an indicator that the Opti is roughly 180 off. If so, then the plugs are igniting the fuel just as it is being inducted into the cylinder instead of on the compression stroke.


If that is the case there probably isn't much gas in the oil, but as always it wouldn't hurt to check.

[Kevin - Blown 95 TA]

Is that possible? Do you have to jam it on there or does it slide on easy 180 out?

[Joe 1320]

here is a proceedure to troubleshoot the ignition system........

Step 1. Connect a spark plug tester to a spark plug wire and
check for spark while an assistant is cranking the engine.
Check each plug independantly. this checks for open
spark plug wires. Spark in one or more than one wire
indicates the problem is in spark plug wires or optispark.
If no spark exists, go to step 2.

Step 2. Check for spark at the coil wire with the spark tester
while cranking the engine. A spark indicates the problem
is in the distributer (optispark). If no spark go to step 3.

Step3. Perform check on ignition coil.
a: Unplug coil electrical connector and check pink wire for
12v. If power go to b.
b. using ohmeter low scale, hook up the leads to the
primary terminals on the ignition coil. Should indicate
very low resistance. If not, replace coil.
c. Using the high scale, hook up one lead to the primary
terminal, the other to the secondary terminal. Should
not read infinite resistance. If it does, replace coil.

Step 4. Disconnect the ignition module connector and with the
key on, check voltage at terminals A and D on the harness
side of the connector. (pink/black and white/black wires)
If under 10 volts check for faulty circuit from the ignition
module to the coil or check for grounded external coil
circuit. If 10 volts or more, change the voltmeter to a/c
scale and measure voltage on terminal B while engine is
cranking. (white wire). If 0 volts, Have ECM checked. If 1-
4 volts, with the key off, disconnect the module
connector. Install a LED type test light on the positive
battery terminal and probe terminal C on the harness side
of the connector (black wire). The light should illuminate.
If not, check ground wire in the harness to the module. If
the test light is on, go to step 5.

Step 5. Remove the coil wire from the coil and ground it to the
frame. Connect LED test light into the optispark harness
connector red wire terminal C. The harness connector that
you will use is located on the passenger side of the
engine up near the fuel rail. You will need to insert a back
probe pin into terminal C. If the test light flashes when an
assistant cranks the engine, the optispark is suspect. If
no flashes, replace the ignition module.

If the above tests results are correct and there is still no
start, it is tough to to tell the difference between a
faulty module or optispark. Module = Cheap$$, optispark
=moderate $$$.

Hope this helps

[94formulaLT1]

alright cool, i will try this tomorrow..dark out now

here is a proceedure to troubleshoot the ignition system........

Step 1. Connect a spark plug tester to a spark plug wire and
check for spark while an assistant is cranking the engine.
Check each plug independantly. this checks for open
spark plug wires. Spark in one or more than one wire
indicates the problem is in spark plug wires or optispark.
If no spark exists, go to step 2.

Step 2. Check for spark at the coil wire with the spark tester
while cranking the engine. A spark indicates the problem
is in the distributer (optispark). If no spark go to step 3.

Step3. Perform check on ignition coil.
a: Unplug coil electrical connector and check pink wire for
12v. If power go to b.
b. using ohmeter low scale, hook up the leads to the
primary terminals on the ignition coil. Should indicate
very low resistance. If not, replace coil.
c. Using the high scale, hook up one lead to the primary
terminal, the other to the secondary terminal. Should
not read infinite resistance. If it does, replace coil.

Step 4. Disconnect the ignition module connector and with the
key on, check voltage at terminals A and D on the harness
side of the connector. (pink/black and white/black wires)
If under 10 volts check for faulty circuit from the ignition
module to the coil or check for grounded external coil
circuit. If 10 volts or more, change the voltmeter to a/c
scale and measure voltage on terminal B while engine is
cranking. (white wire). If 0 volts, Have ECM checked. If 1-
4 volts, with the key off, disconnect the module
connector. Install a LED type test light on the positive
battery terminal and probe terminal C on the harness side
of the connector (black wire). The light should illuminate.
If not, check ground wire in the harness to the module. If
the test light is on, go to step 5.

Step 5. Remove the coil wire from the coil and ground it to the
frame. Connect LED test light into the optispark harness
connector red wire terminal C. The harness connector that
you will use is located on the passenger side of the
engine up near the fuel rail. You will need to insert a back
probe pin into terminal C. If the test light flashes when an
assistant cranks the engine, the optispark is suspect. If
no flashes, replace the ignition module.

If the above tests results are correct and there is still no
start, it is tough to to tell the difference between a
faulty module or optispark. Module = Cheap$$, optispark
=moderate $$$.

Hope this helps